MTH RealTrax connectivity issues!

Bigboy4014

That's why I have been using so many wirer jumpers around my layout.

This is good information here.  

Thanks, John

I also had recurring problems with third rail continuity because of defective welds of the contact tabs. My fear was that inaccessible tracks in tunnels and or under the city platform would fail and ruin my layout. So as my layout was already built, I opted to solder brass strips across the 3rd rail joints. Since adding the brass strips, the 300+ feet of Real Trax on my layout has been excellent.

I too only use the solid rail Real Trax, but I find that the weld problem is not unique to any one batch of Real Trax. Your fix is the way to for any new tracks I install. Thanks for sharing it.

Thanks for posting your fix. I had similar issues and decided to solder across the rail joints. I had many bad pieces. I almost threw it in the trash with disgust. I ended up soldering almost every piece. No problems so far. I have over 100 feet but would not get anymore.

Bob

Thx Todd.

I feel your pain Bob, I actually brought a big hammer and I was going to destroy them and post pix...LOL.... But now I like them!!

Ahhh, what a crazy hobby...

Thx Bobby, good info...

ALSO - Note that some pieces of track have 4 raised posts adjacent to the connectors and some don't. If you use the plastic MTH track holding clips to secure the track better (carpet layouts), they won't hold with the tracks with the posts. I drill out the 2 center posts so the base is flat like the others, the clips then hold properly. Use a smaller diameter drill on the post and then a tip nippers to remove the remainder. Hielsie

I have my engineering curiosity hat on and thinking about the manufacturing problem that arises when electric spot welding connectors to the rails. This is conjecture.

The contact and rail materials are dissimilar metals and I think that the contact material has a lower melting point. So the amount of current in the spot welding process may be based upon the lower melting point of the contact which is borderline for a good weld to the rail.

Perhaps a better idea is to solder the contacts to the rails in lieu of spot welding them.

I believe there is a market for a snap-on rail connector like Type C in my sketch. Such a connector will substantially improve the reliability of Real Trax for those of us who have already bought this track system. The material of the connector should be compatible for soldering it to the rail. 

A similar connector is a fix for Real Trax switches as well:

As I have posted here before, MTH Realtrax is a very bad choice. I understand (not from personal experience) that Lionels Fasttrack is a better choice for sectional track. Since my layout is permanent I should have gone with track like Atlas flextrack. I have a few short sections of flex track used to smooth the track flow on my layout. It appears to be very good track. Realtrax switches have also been problems. Realtrax is bad stuff...period.

LDBennett

Thanks for this very useful information, Sam. I used FastTrack for my layout but I use Realtrax for under the Christmas tree. I haven't had any problem with the Realtrax so far but now I know what to look at if I do.

I can tell you from personal experience with both Realtrax And Fastrak that I've never had issues with either and I've been using Realtrax since it first came out and never had an issue of any kind. If and when I do re-do my layout it will be with tubular mainly for the Magnetraction which is useless on Realtrax and Fastrak since I have a pretty large fleet of postwar engines that have it. I have no real issue with Fastrak but with my investment in tubular and Realtrax it makes no sense for me to switch to a third option.

Jerry

An easy solution for a permanent layout is to solder a wire across the joint.  The photo shows Atlas track on the G&O Railroad.  The idea is the same.

This is all very helpful. I am working with Rich O and his son Luke in restoring a 4 level layout with about 250' of RealTrax and fifteen switches.

This is my first experience with RealTrax, so it's been a learning one. The layout is circa 2002\2003 with solid rail.

I have enough tracks feeds that I may be hiding some of these pesky tracks. Now I know what to look for when we have a track section that seems slightly annoying.

We are about to complete the 3rd reassembly and then power and test the switches. I have observed one that likes to spark. Thanks Bobby for the info and the cure.

We also had one with the rail height alignment issue. I just replaced it, but it may need to be used again. Found that fix on another thread.

Thanks again Same E., Bobby and all for sharing your experience.

I disagree.  MTH RealTrax has been on my layout for 15 years, and I've had to replace three pieces of track and one switch, all due to use...or overuse may be more accurate.  I had one minor connectivity issue, and it was resolved with a track screw. 

If you bought the Realtrax track 15 years ago then it is not the current production which mine is. There could be a difference. Here is a summary of my problems:

Track rails fail to align both vertically and horizontally due to lack of guide pins in rails, requiring filing of rails to keep bumps in train travel to minimum

Switches anti-derailment feature defeated (as is being able to change switch position) by contact with adjacent track section which is supposed to be isolated.

Points fail to contact rails, requiring bending, and repositioning of internal springs

Guide rails through switches too loose allowing wheels to override frog (just a bigger bump)

Some MTH engines arc and spark due to shorting of center rails to outer rail by engine roller pickups

I'm glad you have satisfactory operation on your Realtrax but new production runs appear to be much more problematical than your older track or even some newer track you might have based on reports here (??).

LDBennett

Interesting lead post and follow up debate.  I purchased a lot of RealTrax about 10 years ago for my Christmas Carpet Central Railway and labored with major league continuity problems from the beginning.  I finally gave up on it and replaced it with Lionel Fastrack and I have good luck with it for about 6 years or so.  I hope it continues. 

I am always loathe to throw things away so I kept the old RealTrax.  I think I will pull it out and work in this new fix to see if it will cure my old RealTrax woes.  Its always good to have a backup track system available.

LDBennett;

I have the answer to some of your problems.

Rails failing to align Vertically and the Anti Derail switch fails you describe are usually due to non level benchwork.

Make sure all rails approaching a switch are dead level wit the switch.

I have a lot of Realtrax and it has been moved and rebuilt repeatedly over a span of nearly 10 years. It is mixed solid and hollow rail, more hollow than not.

Horizontal misalignment can be caused by no more than the pressure of your thumb on the rails, do not file them, bend them back in line.

Vertical misalignment I have never had.

Now, to the OP comment;

Many people do not connect and disconnect Realtrax properly, MTH has not put out instructions and this is the problem.

Hold the Track in a V with the rails touching. (about 45 degrees)

Rotate the track flat while pressing the rails together. This makes the electrical contacts align properly. Pushing them in straight like a pinned track can cause side to side shifting while connecting and then the contacts can slip past each other.

Add the next piece by holding it up at 45 degrees and pressing the rails together as you bring it down flat.

Last connection of a loop, hold both sides up in a shallow V and press together.

The larger the loop the easier this gets.

To disconnect, hold one piece flat and raise the next one, they will separate smoothly.

Table work is a flat piece of plywood . Track is screwed to plywood with an underlayment of thin indoor/outdoor carpet. The MTH  Realtrax is just not quality. I have too much of it to change and have it working good enough. If I did it over it would be Atlas Flextrack. But that is not an option. As long as I can keep it running it will have to do.

Lionel Fastback is better because of the alignment pins keep the rails aligned vertically and horizontally.

But the Realtrax switches are just junk.