mth realtrax switch problem

Frank;
1) Yes, a drop of gel superglue will hold the magnet in

2) for the non-throwing I suspect a short in the track attached to the curve outlet. Make sure the rail that doesn't have a contact is gapped from the end of the switch stub rail. if It is touching, any car on that track will drive the anti-derail to move the switch to that side and keep it there.
I tend to isolate the rail 1 section back and let it short at the switch end, giving the switch longer to throw if a fast moving train approaches.

I've had the same issue with a couple Realtrax switches. Upon close examination I found the gap had closed between the inside rail of the switch and the next track piece.

I resolved it by widening the gap by 1/16" with a dremel.

Russell and dvbull thanks for the response. I spoke to MTH service dept. today and most helpful. The problem is the non derailing ground is shorting switch. Recommend astrightening slightly or dremel ground side of contacts so that there is gap. Also, the small magnets are not a service item or part raedily available. Corrosion on magnets or loss of chrome coating doesn't effect operation. Crazy glue or other glue to hold it in is fine.

Barry- sorry if i'm in wrong forum. When I searche the question on realtrax switch it brought me here. In future where should I post? Electric or layout?

quote:

Barry- sorry if i'm in wrong forum. When I searche the question on realtrax switch it brought me here. In future where should I post? Electric or layout?

Ni big deal. I just thought that more people frequent the Main 3-Rail Forum and RealTrax isn't necessarily related to DCS or PS2.

Regardless, the good news is that it appears that you've gotten your answer.

I just had a similar problem.

Had one that when the control lever threw it one way, the turnout threw and the motor stopped.

When thrown the other way, the motor hummed after the turnout threw.. (that split second or so that one holds the lever up after the initial push and not quite release the lever.)

Checked the non derail by gnding the curve and the straight. Curve threw and quit. The straight threw and kept humming while the jumper was applied...which means loco wheels would cause the same thing.

Looked for butted ends...nope. Took the turnout out of the section and bench tested it alone, same problem.

Took the controller off...same problem. Turned the thing over and noticed that one magnet was not seated fully in the body. Pulled it, glued it and put it back and that solved the problem.

I think what happens is that the magnet sticking out did not let the internals throw all the way and engage the microswitch in there that breaks the circuit. I am thinking that anyway.

Perhaps this will help someone else before they dissect a switch or return it for service.

Greg

I am so gald I found this, I have exactly the same problem on one of my switches.  However, I am new to MTH and am not sure exactly where to dremmel.  Are you saying there should be a gap between the rails on the switch track and all three tracks that connect to it?.  I am just not sure that I am pictuing the right thing, and want to make sure before I start grinding track.  Thanks.

 

Christian 

You dont need to dremel it. On the inner rails (which meet at the 'V' plate), you need to either file the end of the rail down where it meets the next piece of track, or sometimes there's just enough slack in the position of the rails that you can move them with a pair of pliers. There needs to be a gap between the inner rails on the switch and the next piece of track for the anti-derail mechanism to work correctly.

I guess you could use a dremel, but you shouldnt have to remove that much material to make the anti-derail work correctly.

Thanks for the simple explination and quick response, it worked. 

This was a most timely resurrection of this thread as I had been having this same problem with one of my switches and was dreading having to pull it out. I went home last night armed with my new found knowledge confident I had the fix at hand. Imagine my surprise when the switch operated perfectly before ever touching it with any tools. I didn't mess with it further since it was working fine but I'm thinking that this may be a case similar to what Greg described with the magnet sticking. In any event, if it acts up again I'll know how to proceed. Thanks to all for the great input on how to deal with this issue.

Frank 

This is helpful.  Thanks.  I've had same issue and just tried to flex the track.  Of course that just means i move the problem to another switch becasue then the next switch is now shorting.

 

I will dremel it.

 

It is frustrating when it happens.

 

Regards.

 

 

I have the same problem with an O-31 switch in DCS, It will only stay in the straight position and when I try to change it to curved the switch lantern moves and shakes lights dim but won't switch. It works fine alone with a few pieces of track connected to it. However on my 9 by 8 O-54 loop it doesn't want to work. Any input is greatly appreciated, By the way this is an older solid rail one I bought new a few months ago.

Thanks 

After Checkiong the switch it buzzes and the lights go extremely dim. Without the remote it works fine.