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I know this is one of many complaints about this product, about a year ago I bought 4 for a new layout. Two had problems out of the box so I returned them. By that point I had dug through the parts box and had found I had one with a minor problem, (paint had been splashed on it and it gummed up the rail. Since I was waiting for my replacements to come back decided to see if I could fix this one. Classic problem it had happened while putting a base layer down on adjoining section and hadn't realized I had dripped paint, I should have covered the finished area but thought I wasn't going near it.

In any case to my surprise it cleaned up and worked better than any of the four new switches so it stayed in place. Two days ago I began work on adding a siding and took the new one not used a year ago and sitting on the shelf off of the shelf.  Put in the bench tested it and low and behold same problem as the two I had sent back. I should have of course tested it when it came back but since one worked assumed this one would and yes I know what assumptions turn you into. So no this *** is stuck with a broken switch as of course the warranty is just about up and I don't have the paperwork so sending it back is pointless. 

In any case as so many other tales of woe with these switches I won't carry on too much about poor quality control -- this is just one more example. I have opened it up and found the reason the switch won't lock in the straight position is the bracket that holds the bail and string that are used to lock it in place is cracked. It also appears the crack was done at the factory because the small PC board below that corner of the bracket is slightly misplaced and a wire connects where the leg of the bracket should fit. As such if you tighten the bracket to sit flat you'll crack the arm that holds one side of the bail. I noticed that the other side of the switch had a similar bracket, I am wondering if they can be swapped or if there is difference between the two sides. Assuming the two are interchangeable and I can solder the wire so its out of the way I could simply swap and move the bail and spring. Has anyone tried this?  

Sorry for the poor picture but hard to get close enough and maintain focus. The broken piece is the gray plastic piece with the bail and spring on the right side of the photo.

 

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...I noticed that the other side of the switch had a similar bracket, I am wondering if they can be swapped or if there is difference between the two sides

 

IMG_6075

Curiosity got the better of me so I opened one up and it appears from my sample of one that they are different parts.  Note the larger/wider cut-out (circled in yellow) on the side with the spring.

If you swapped the mounting brackets, the larger cut-out would be closer to the lever switches and if moving the spring to the follow the larger cut-out, I'd think flipping the bail over would mean the spring would no longer operate in compression(?).

I didn't look but I'm guessing there are different mounting brackets because the one on the top is used in the other turnout direction (left-hand vs. right-hand).  Again, that's just a guess...I don't have the other direction turnout handy to dissect and inspect.  But if this is the case, if you have the other turnout direction, you could swap mounting brackets since the cracked bracket would then be on the side without the spring/bail.  Not sure I'm being clear. 

 

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Last edited by stan2004

I was so annoyed I hadn't noticed that but yes I think your right Stan.  A very good catch.  Will have to look at mine but suspect that will be the case. I don't think I have any more MTH switches in the parts box and trying to get an answer from them on the website is never easy and at least on Friday the phone was going directly to voice mail.  Given they are based in MD which is locked down its entirely likely they are closed as a non-essential business.

 

This will make the third out of six, the four plus the two replacements that had the same operating problem and presumably the same cause.  Doesn't say good things about their QC.  A shame as the older switches really worked well and the last few I have bought have all had problems.

 

Last edited by Marty Lampner

Marty, note I'm speculating you might be able to swap mounting brackets from an opposite-direction turnout that you have in use (not one from a spare parts stash). 

You'd still want to clean up that green-wire solder-blob that is apparently blocking the mounting bracket leg from clamping all the way down without cracking.

blob

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Last edited by stan2004

An interesting idea obvious the right hand switch wouldn't need that one. I wonder since the pressure on it would be less if you could sub the broken one with a bit of glue to fix the crack.

Also possible in looking at the pictures your and mind the question comes up would the spring being switched to the other side matter. The angle would be different and it might bind but like your idea. May see if I can get one of the right handers to loan us its bracket. This is a left hand switch.

Spent the day cleaning gutters so time with the switch will need to wait. More to follow.

 

 

...I wonder since the pressure on it would be less if you could sub the broken one with a bit of glue to fix the crack.

Just speculating, but I'm thinking you could take that cracked bracket from your LH turnout and use it as-is in a RH turnout.  That is, the mounting bracket with the bail-spring experiences vertical and lateral forces...whereas the mounting bracket without the bail-spring only experiences lateral side-to-side forces to keep the sliding carriage in its lane.

In your photo, the crack is exterior to the 2 mounting screws.  Hence, a repaired crack does not provide any vertical structural integrity to contain the lateral forces from the sliding carriage.  Obviously it does no harm to glue the crack though.

Last edited by stan2004

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