MTH Z1000 CONTROLLER

Check the MTH website.  They do offer replacement parts for the Z1000 Controller.  Not sure if it includes what you would need.

Ron

Yeh Ron......tried that yesterday, but could not get any info to come up on their parts section for the Z Controllers, no matter how I entered it.

Anyway, I am looking for a local fix, as the cost of postage from the States to Australia is getting beyond belief!!

Peter......Buco Australia

Buco,

I must have gotten lucky.  I was planning on doing some Z1000 parts ordering and received one of MTH’s Parts and Sales Site e-mails highlighting new replacement parts just received for the Z1000 Controller.  Ordered what I needed then and don’t know if their parts receipt included enough for stock.  I believe that one of the items was the Board with the controller knob.  Good luck with your repair search!

Ron

Thanks again Ron.......I have a couple of spare Z Controller boards I purchased from a hobby shop in the States about 12 months ago, so I have the controller up and running again, but I would like to repair the "buggered board" if I can.

That is why I was asking if someone knew what the common failure point was in them, and what components I need to get to replace the damaged one/s.

Anyone out there that might have an idea??????

Peter......Buco Australia.

First off, remove this part, that may bring it back.  If so, you can replace it with the 1500W 33.3V TVS at Digikey.

If that doesn't do it, replace one or both of these parts and it should be back "in the pink".  They shouldn't be more than a couple dollars each.

@Buco posted:

I have a "dead" circuit board in my Z Controller in that there is now a constant 18V AC output through the outlets (red & black plug connections).

As soon as I turn it on there is 18V going to the track, and no matter what I do, there is no longer any control of the voltage to the track through the speed knob on the fascia panel.

Can I repair this myself using components sourced from my local electronics store (Jaycar)?? YES, between gunrunnerjohn and my post are the 3 main components that control the output.

If not, I can always use it for "fixed voltage" to power accessories on the layout......uncoupling tracks, switch motors etc. -YES, but fixing could be relatively simple.

Known failure mode (output shorted full on), there is a chance the TVS diode is simply failed and that is why you are seeing "full" voltage output constantly. Just cut one leg. The purpose is to protect the FETs, and given it failed implies inductive spikes happened and could happen again. So ideally replace it, but  simple way to make a non-functioning one repaired with a cheap and relatively easy fix.

Gunrunner J.......brilliant, just brilliant!!!!!

Vernon........you're the man!!!!

My next little project is to source all three of these components from my electronic store, and fire the soldering iron up.

I will get back with the results in a couple of days, depending on the availability of the components.

Thank you both again for the help I was looking for......you guys are the greatest!!!

Peter.....Buco Australia.

Ah.........SUCCESS TRUELY IS SWEET!!!!!

Put the multi-meter (Ohm) on the TVS and got funny number readings......put the multi-meter on the TVS on a good board and, nothing....no numbers at all.....zero, zero, zero. This confirmed the TVS had failed in the "on" state as suspected.

Cut one leg of the TVS as suggested by Vernon and........got variable AC voltage coming out of the outlet jacks again!!!

Went to Jaycar Electronics and got 3 TVS components as described by Gunrunner John. Came home and completely removed the shorted TVS from the board, and installed one of the new TVS', and YES....we are back in business!!!

Thank you Gunrunner John and Vernon for diagnosing my problem with precise accuracy, and for telling me the correct component to purchase.  The rest, as they say, is now history!!! 

Till next time.......Peter  (Buco Australia)

@Buco posted:

Ah.........SUCCESS TRUELY IS SWEET!!!!!

Put the multi-meter (Ohm) on the TVS and got funny number readings......put the multi-meter on the TVS on a good board and, nothing....no numbers at all.....zero, zero, zero. This confirmed the TVS had failed in the "on" state as suspected.

Cut one leg of the TVS as suggested by Vernon and........got variable AC voltage coming out of the outlet jacks again!!!

Went to Jaycar Electronics and got 3 TVS components as described by Gunrunner John. Came home and completely removed the shorted TVS from the board, and installed one of the new TVS', and YES....we are back in business!!!

Thank you Gunrunner John and Vernon for diagnosing my problem with precise accuracy, and for telling me the correct component to purchase.  The rest, as they say, is now history!!!

Till next time.......Peter  (Buco Australia)

Once again, proof that this is the best train forum around. Guys like John and Vernon are always happy to share their knowledge and experience with electronics......it takes a Village

Glad you got your controller repaired Peter.

Very nice, Pete; helpful advice from 2 very helpful guys, and a storybook ending. It’s the simple things in life you treasure.