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I have spent the last two weeks designing and building a storage cabinet for my excess rolling stock.  I have acquired so many cars that every siding and display shelf was full.  I had a freight train on the main line with over 20 cars in tow.  Over Christmas, I wanted to run the trains and do some switching.  I became frustrated since I had to remove cars and place them on the floor or any other available space.  I finally got fed up and started to clean out some space under the layout.  After consolidating all of my excess scenery supplies and relocating empty boxes to the attic or recycle bin I found that I had a space available beneath the layout 44" wide by 26" deep and 35" tall.  This allowed me to build a cabinet that contained six drawers 40" wide by 24" deep.  Each drawer has seven "tracks" allowing each drawer to hold up to 28 cars.

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The cabinet is constructed of poplar lumber and paint grade birch plywood as it will be hidden beneath the layout.  If it were to be in an exposed location, I would have used oak with better joinery.

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The drawers have full extension slides to allow access to the rearmost set of tracks.

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The width of the drawers accommodates two 18" passenger cars.  I can put an entire 14 car passenger train in one drawer!

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Each track will hold two scale 50 cars and one 40' car.  With shorter cars I can get 4 units per track.

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I hide the cabinet with cloth skirting.

I now have excess storage AND plenty of room on the layout to do switching.  Best of all, I have easy access if I want to swap out cars.

Tom

 

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Last edited by Tom Densel
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Hi Tom,

What a neat idea to an age old problem!                                                                                                                                                                                                

Your workmanship and execution is superb.

TJ                                           

Thanks for the comments, guys.

Some points I should make about this project are:

- DON"T SKIMP ON THE DRAWER SLIDES!!!  I bought the first slides I came across and have regretted it since.  I trashed one when I misaligned a drawer during installation.

- I used 3/4" plywood for the drawer bottoms.  This allowed me to cut grooves for the "tracks".  It also ensured stability since there would be quite a span.  With the  5 1/4" high sides, the drawers are VERY stable.  I probably could have made the drawers a full 8' long if I had the space.  While, in my situation, I could have probably satisfactorily used 1/2" plywood for the drawer bottoms, I just felt more secure using 3/4".   

- Accuracy in construction is vital, especially when using full extension drawer slides.

- In addition to carefully measuring the space available to install a cabinet like this, measure all of the areas that you will have to move it through to install it.  When I brought the cabinet in from the shop I found that it would not fit through a walkway in the train room.  My wife and I had to lift it over the layout to get it into place.

I hope this project is an inspiration to anyone with a similar situation.

Tom

Tom,

All the previous commenters have covered anything I could add.  It's a beautiful, elegant solution to a common problem.  I will be borrowing that design at sometime in the future.  It's a lot better than keeping cars on a shelf or in boxes in storage bins (my current solution).  I don't have enough space to have an adequate storage yard (a true wish-list item) but this would work very well.

Well done!

George

it's funny I was just talking to the wife about this yesterday. I have 4 shelfs on one wall and one shelf on another all full and some cars laying on there side so I can stack them so I was thinking of getting some aluminum shelfs for down the hallway but she didn't like the idea and said shelfs under the layout I like your drawer idea better. wish I was a carpenter with enough skill and a table saw.

Jhainer posted:

it's funny I was just talking to the wife about this yesterday. I have 4 shelfs on one wall and one shelf on another all full and some cars laying on there side so I can stack them so I was thinking of getting some aluminum shelfs for down the hallway but she didn't like the idea and said shelfs under the layout I like your drawer idea better. wish I was a carpenter with enough skill and a table saw.

You know, there might be a kit for this kind of drawer system somewhere on the internet.  It would lend itself to one.  Might be worth a search.

George

Tom Tee posted:

Nice!  What "track" spacing did you use?

The track centers are 3 1/8".  I found this spacing allows about 5/8" between cars, enough to get your fingers in to pick them up.  

When I laid out the tracks I made two marks 1" apart.  I cut to the outside of each line.  This places the outside edges of the cuts 1 1/4" apart.  I made a layout stick with all of the cuts marked on it.  I used this to set the table saw for each cut.

Tom

Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions, Guys.

I broke out the drafting equipment and made some drawings of the drawer sides and bottoms as well as the cabinet base/side attachment.  My working drawings were a bunch of hand drawn sketches on some notebook paper.  Not something I would want to post!!!

 

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This is the bottom of the drawer, looking at it from the end.  I only show 1 1/2 tracks, but the measurements are the same between each set of tracks.  The material is 3/4 inch plywood.  I suggest a cabinet grade plywood as you want it to be as flat as possible.  The screws are placed about 8" apart around the perimeter of the bottom.   The bottom is 1/4" smaller than the completed drawer.  A rabet cut into the sides hides the edge of the plywood.

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The drawer sides and ends are made of hardwood.   I used 3/4" poplar for my drawers.  I screwed the fronts and backs to the sides.  4 1/2" inside height allows scale hi-cube boxcars to fit into the drawers.  If traditional rolling stock is going to be stored, the sides can be made shorter.  Measure the tallest piece of equipment you intend to store in the drawer and add 1/4".

 

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The bottom is fastened to the sides by driving 1 1/4 #8 wood screws up into the rabetted area.

 

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A dado cut into the sides locks around the bottom of the unit.  This transfers the weight of the drawers directly to the base.  Four 2" #8 wood screws attach each side to the base.  I installed swivel casters to make it easier to move the cabinet out to access the junk stored behind it.  I made the sides extend past the bottom to cover the casters.  I allowed 1/2" clearance between the bottom of the sides and the floor.  A wood skirt was constructed to fill in the front of the cabinet and conceal the casters.

 

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This is the gauge stick that I made to set the blade on the table saw for each cut.  The stick is the entire depth of the drawer bottom and all cuts for the bottom are made in the stick.  I first made some test cuts in a scrap piece of plywood to ensure that my spacing was correct.   To use the stick, just butt it against the fence and adjusted the fence until the groove falls over the saw blade.  Make cuts in all of the bottoms at each setting then reset the fence for the next cut.  Make sure that you use a blade with a full 1/8" kerf.  A thin cut blade will throw the track gauge off.

 

I hope these drawings help with the details of the drawers and cabinet sides.  The rest of the cabinet construction is pretty  basic carpentry.  Make sure that you have the drawer slides before you begin construction as you need to follow the manufacturer's directions as far as spacing.  The cabinet can be any dimensions you want.  I did find that making the drawers 40" inside width allowed two 18" passenger cars to be placed on each track.  Drawers any wider become very difficult to handle, especially if you are working by yourself.  

Tom

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