I'm going to have to try adapting some #260 bumpers to short Fastrack pieces and see if that works out. I suspect with a little cutting and drilling, I could have much more robust bumpers.
Hi John, I recently purchased 6 of those 6-12715 Lighted Bumpers and as you know I am in the process of building my yard and will be powering those bumpers up sometime by the end of the weekend. I wanted to find out what diode to get before I light them so I can install the diode first. I am heading to Radio Shack tonight and will pick up what I need if I hear from you before then.
Thanks!
-Matt
You can use any silicon diode, the 1N4003 is a good choice. Since the LED will draw at most 20ma, the choices if very flexible. 
Thanks for the fast response. Is that the shacks part # or should I just tell them that's what I need? When I install do I just place on center rail feed by lamp or do I need for both inner and outer rails? I don't need these so bright I as I prefer they last longer so I take it the diode will dim them a little?
Thanks!
Just ask for a 1N400x, x can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, whatever they have. The only difference is the reverse voltage rating, they go from 50 volts to 1000 volts. I prefer them in the range of the 1N4003 or the 1N4005. I'd probably avoid the 1N4001, it's reverse voltage specification is marginal.
You put it in either leg of the LED, but it does have to be the correct orientation. Try it one way with test clips, and if the LED doesn't light, turn it around.
Wonderful!!! Thanks a bunch!!
What is WGHS? and where were 45,000 people?
Originally Posted by Len2:
(snip)
But if there's one thing I could change, it would be the undersized wire Lionel includes with everything. Whether it's the FT Terminal/Accesory
Activator tracks, or that totally rediculous 24 gauge green insulation wire they include with the older accesories and lock-ons. Give me a break!
I'm gonna sell all my coils of green wire in one group on a famous auction site one of these days.
Originally Posted by Allan Miller:
I have several FasTrack lighted bumpers on my layout and have never had a problem with any of them. I use them on the "active" spurs and use non-lighted bumpers on the dead spurs where I park unused engines and rolling stock.
You should buy a lottery ticket...
Originally Posted by eddie g:
What is WGHS? and where were 45,000 people?
World's Greatest Hobby on Tour shows--held in various U.S. cities each year. They are expecting their 1,000,000th visitor early in 2013. As I recall, the 45,000 attendees figure was attained at a show in Texas--perhaps Dallas or Houston. Here's a link to the WGH site:
Yeah I'll jump on this wagon. I have two and both wouldn't stay lit very long at all. I didn't do a real fix, I just kept thumping them until they stay lit. I need to take them off and do a real fix on them!
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
Just ask for a 1N400x, x can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, whatever they have. The only difference is the reverse voltage rating, they go from 50 volts to 1000 volts. I prefer them in the range of the 1N4003 or the 1N4005. I'd probably avoid the 1N4001, it's reverse voltage specification is marginal.
You put it in either leg of the LED, but it does have to be the correct orientation. Try it one way with test clips, and if the LED doesn't light, turn it around.
You are probably better off if you walk into your average RS with the RS catalog number which can be looked up in the computer.
Here's a link to the first page of the RS Diode and Rectifiers listing. You want the 276-xxxx number for your quest. (Of course if you hit the jackpot and there is a salesperson who knows parts, it won't matter. That is somewhat unlikely in a lot of stores though.)
-Dave
I am using 027 track on my display shelves. I have a 260 bumper on each end. I have 12v led bayonet lamps in each 260. Do I need a diode for each shelf? or 1 diode for all 8 shelves? I plan on powering the track
2nd question. I have a bunch of 1N5349 diodes. will these work?
Those are Zener diodes...not what you would want. But they could be used in a more complicated circuit to do the job.
The LED bayonet lamps are properly protected, just use them. No diodes necessary.
Originally Posted by Dave45681:
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
Just ask for a 1N400x, x can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, whatever they have. The only difference is the reverse voltage rating, they go from 50 volts to 1000 volts. I prefer them in the range of the 1N4003 or the 1N4005. I'd probably avoid the 1N4001, it's reverse voltage specification is marginal.
You put it in either leg of the LED, but it does have to be the correct orientation. Try it one way with test clips, and if the LED doesn't light, turn it around.
You are probably better off if you walk into your average RS with the RS catalog number which can be looked up in the computer.
Here's a link to the first page of the RS Diode and Rectifiers listing. You want the 276-xxxx number for your quest. (Of course if you hit the jackpot and there is a salesperson who knows parts, it won't matter. That is somewhat unlikely in a lot of stores though.)
-Dave
Well, this is probably a good choice, though the price of $1.19 each is about ten times what I'm used to paying! Mouser has them for 9 cents in quantity one. That's why I buy in quantity and have stuff like this in stock.
Thanks Dave for the link...I used it to get my part #s before I went to radio shack and yes they didn't know a thing when i got there so good thing for the link
John, I got the 4004's and 4005's so I can see which one works best. I also got my 18v power adapter for my new TIU (ver L) I don't need the lamps I see for this version as my other TIU I have the small bulbs installed for each TIU output. Does the TIU get connected to my other TIU somehow or are they totally independent?
TIUs are independent. But need to be identified as TIU1 and TIU2 in your remote. You can visit the MTH PDF file here http://www.protosound2.com/ for the instructions to add a TIU. Select DCS service in the right hand menue, then scroll down to Chapter 6.
Thanks Cheryl, I will do just that. I also have DSC videos so I am going to rewatch them.
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
Just ask for a 1N400x, x can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, whatever they have. The only difference is the reverse voltage rating, they go from 50 volts to 1000 volts. I prefer them in the range of the 1N4003 or the 1N4005. I'd probably avoid the 1N4001, it's reverse voltage specification is marginal.
You put it in either leg of the LED, but it does have to be the correct orientation. Try it one way with test clips, and if the LED doesn't light, turn it around.
John I am confused I hooked up one of the diodes to light and both ends seem to make the bulb light up. I even tested the diodes with a test meter to make sure it was not shorted. I tried the side with the white line on the diode first and then turned it around and still got light from the bulb. The only way I was able to get the bulb to light with diode installed in one of the positions is when I had a diode installed on each of the power legs (center and outside rail) Should I just install on each power leg just to be safe?
I did some reading up on and noticed I should have purchased a resistor as well so that way the bulb is not as bright and that it would last longer. right now my 180 bricks are feeding the bulb at 19v ac with the newly installed diode. I just need to add a resister i guess to drop voltage down to about 10-14v at the bulb. Anyone know what type of resister do I need to look for at the shack?
Thanks!
I fiddled with/cursed at/tried to modify all of mine, then just got rid of them. Not worth the frustration.
Some Lionel products are, in my mind, hopeless. This is one. The early-era track inspection car, in my experience is another (although I realize others have had good experience).
Regardless i dont' hold this against Lionel. Any company that can make switches are depednable and durable as Fastrack switches, and the Vision Hudson, is good in my book.
Originally Posted by Matthew:
I did some reading up on and noticed I should have purchased a resistor as well so that way the bulb is not as bright and that it would last longer. right now my 180 bricks are feeding the bulb at 19v ac with the newly installed diode. I just need to add a resister i guess to drop voltage down to about 10-14v at the bulb. Anyone know what type of resister do I need to look for at the shack?
Thanks!
There is a resistor already in the bumper, the diode just protects it from the reverse voltage.
Originally Posted by Allan Miller:
Originally Posted by eddie g:
What is WGHS? and where were 45,000 people?
World's Greatest Hobby on Tour shows--held in various U.S. cities each year. They are expecting their 1,000,000th visitor early in 2013. As I recall, the 45,000 attendees figure was attained at a show in Texas--perhaps Dallas or Houston. Here's a link to the WGH site:
Was able to find 3 cities attendance numbers:
Chantilly, VA 41,036...Phila. a bit over 40,000...Indy 31,276
having an issue with phasing my 2 Z4000s with my new Lionel 180 Brick. First want to get straight is the black on the Lionel 180 considered the Red on the Z4000?? When I connected the Black from the 180 Brick directly to the Red on the Z4000 and at same time connected the White wire from the Brick to the Black wire on the Z4000 the Lionel brick snapped its breaker. Now when I reversed the Black from 180 to black on Z4000 and white from brick to Red on Z4000 it did not trip the breaker...does this mean it's now in phase? My next question is why would I have to swap the wall power cable around If I could just swap the white and black wires coming out of the Brick? Is there a reason why people swap the 120 AC cable around rather then just swapping the output terminals on one the transformer that is not in phase??
Originally Posted by Allan Miller:
Originally Posted by eddie g:
What is WGHS? and where were 45,000 people?
World's Greatest Hobby on Tour shows--held in various U.S. cities each year. They are expecting their 1,000,000th visitor early in 2013. As I recall, the 45,000 attendees figure was attained at a show in Texas--perhaps Dallas or Houston. Here's a link to the WGH site:
Houston had over 30K. Dallas having 45K is a real possibility
Originally Posted by Matthew:
having an issue with phasing my 2 Z4000s with my new Lionel 180 Brick. First want to get straight is the black on the Lionel 180 considered the Red on the Z4000?? When I connected the Black from the 180 Brick directly to the Red on the Z4000 and at same time connected the White wire from the Brick to the Black wire on the Z4000 the Lionel brick snapped its breaker. Now when I reversed the Black from 180 to black on Z4000 and white from brick to Red on Z4000 it did not trip the breaker...does this mean it's now in phase? My next question is why would I have to swap the wall power cable around If I could just swap the white and black wires coming out of the Brick? Is there a reason why people swap the 120 AC cable around rather then just swapping the output terminals on one the transformer that is not in phase??
Actually, I think the black is considered the common, the white is the hot lead. However, other than phasing, I don't think this distinction is all that important.
My impression from general reading on OGR threads is that Fastrack is among the most reliable for conductivity and switch operation out there.
I've had good luck with Fastrack, with the exception of the topic of this thread. The lighted bumpers are the most unreliable Fastrack pieces I've seen.
