Nail vs screw's?

Screw have holding power!

Use TightBond wood glue, screw it together, then remove the screws after the glue is dried & set. Use the screws over again.

Like the idea but I'm not sold on it as I do get up on my layout at times and I like the assurance of a nice long screw in there and in some major points 2 

Nails can pull out over time 

My vote is for screws all the way as we tend to want to change things over time and it's much easier removing screws than nails anytime.

I speak from experience. Our whole layout was built using TightBond wood glue. Every single leg, 1" X 4" glued together to make a 90 degree leg, are all glued with the screws removed. The 3/4" thick plywood is layer on "L Girder" construction (1" X 4" with a piece of 1" X 2" glued & screwed on the "top edge"). We have had four adults up on top of the layout at one time, laying roadbed/track, and have never had a problem.

I've done both, but since acquiring a cordless drill, it sure is a lot easier to use the screws.

Screws whenever possible.

Screws all the way.  We do tend to make changes and (gulp) disassemble eventually.

weight should never be carried by a fastener when possible. with that said, drywall screws have great holding power, but are very brittle. nails will flex much more with movement where a drywall screw will break. that is why they can't be used in structural places when building houses. there is now a large selection of structural screws available that can be used in housing, but they are very expensive. I would either notch the leg to carry the weight and hold the joint together with screws or glue and screw a block to carry the weight as shown in the pic.

Always screws, you can't get nails out without some damage to the track.

Screws are my choice, you most likely will change things around here and there even putting your benchwork together some changes will have to be made, screws are the way to go.

Jack

Hot Water knows of what he speaks.  I would bet 6 months of my social security checks that you could park a Hummer on top of his layout and would not budge.

The hardest part would be driving the Hummer up the stairs. 

Screws. Much quicker to put tables together and if need be much quicker to take them apart...................Paul

Screws.

-Dave

Let me describe a problem I found answering this question:

Some background of the layout

I am currently helping a friend work on his layout. The layout track was already completed it is Lionel Fasttrack. The layout consists of a single loop with 11 sidings and 2 passing sidings. Very little detail work was completed that is where I came in. After some substantial time was invested in detail I pointed this out to him. The way the track was put down with the sidings he was running his trains in an opposing direction. The direction he was running made all his sidings a pull in siding thus trapping the engine.

Here is where the problem begins:

When we reversed the direction of travel the steam engines would not traverse some of the switches. I learned that when the track was laid it was only tested running the direction he was originally running. Looking across the layout I could see the problem switches were flexed and bowed. Of course this was only on the most difficult switches to reach. This is when I was surprised to find that on 90% of the layout screws were used. But in these locations the switches had been installed with nails. You can’t back out a nail as easy as a screw. The only option when this is in Fasttrack is with 2 flat bladed screwdrivers under both sides of the switch. You must get them a close to the nail a possible and try to work it back up. Doing this on a $75 switch is not a position to be in as it flexes and twists. In the end all the problem areas were corrected and trains will now run in either direction without any problems.

Draw your own conclusion but for me screws may cost a little more but if you need to make adjustments later a nail is not the best to do it with.     

Track screws I work with a drill, to pre drill Gargraves ties and and impact driver to set screws.    

Yellow.

Drill left, impact driver top center.

Work box. Cans left to right. Buchanan Yellow B1 twist nuts. #10 X 3" screws, #8 X 2" screws, #8 X 1" screws. #6 X 3/8" drill tip button head screws. Drill bits.

Screw it!

I used nails for the dimensional lumber but attach the plywood or OSB with Liquid Nails and drywall screws. I spent a lot of time walking on it during construction and never had an issue where it seemed to move or flex under me, on the contrary you could have parked a car on it.

Jerry

I agree that screws are a much better choice than nails.  I also think it's important to NOT use cheap drywall screws from the local big box home center.  they are much too brittle and break easily. 

You will be much happier if you use good quality square drive screws rather than Phillips.  You'll pay a little more for the screws but using them will be a delight.  Here's where I got mine:   http://www.mcfeelys.com/

When putting together the benchwork I use yellow wood glue and fine-thread drywall screws, 1 1/8 to 2 inch length depending.  Lots of them.  I leave them in rather than reuse. Re using them is a clever thrift idea, but: a) I leave them in for the additional strength (which really is only needed if you plan to park two Hummers on your benchwork) and b) it's extra work, twice as much time spent with the screwdriver.  

To hold down the track (Atlas in my case) I used the screws Atlas sold for that purpose.

Screws hold much better than nails.  On permanent applications I screw and glue. 

Screws, no question at all.  Reasons:

1. Screws hold better than nails.
2. Screws allow you to change your mind, disassemble, or repair things quickly.

I also recommend that you keep track of what screws are used for specific purposes (e.g. 1 1/8" drywall screws for benchwork, #6 x 3/4" for electrical, etc.), where you bought them, and buy in bulk (cheaper).

George

Screws are the only way to go. My children can attest to it. When they sold both of my prewar layouts. They told me that each buyer was in and out in less than three hours including time required for cleanup.  

We used screws to put the layout together.

18 ga brads to secure the track.

I have been involved with building many layouts.  Standard drywall screws are perfectly fine for layout construction.  You don't need to glue.

Layouts built with screws and plywood will hold a person weighing over 300 pounds without problems.  There is no need to build it stronger than it has to be be.  After all, most people aren't going to jump up and down on the layout and the weight of a train is low compared to the strength of the wood and screws.   The heaviest part of a layout is often the plaster scenery but that weight is spread over many square inches.

Switches and other accessories should always be screwed down instead of nailed.  This allows for changes and adjustments.

Joe 

"While building my new layout, I was pondering which is better...nail or screw? Any thoughts?"

    I use them both along with bolts and adhesive. I generally nail and glue my benchwork sections together using an air nailer then screw them to the wall and bolt them to each other. Roadbed is usually glued and brad nailed then cork and track glued to it.Using  caulking to glue the track makes it easy to salvage if if changes are needed.... .DaveB

Short answer, as many others have said, Screws.

Long answer part 1:  Tightbond or even yellow Elmers glue will out hold the wood.  Park a truck on the layout and you'll end up with splinters and joints still securely attached.  Down side:  Bring a sledge when it comes time to disassemble, and I think all of us will eventually have to take things apart.  Then again, gluing sizable modules and bolting them together will probably work out quite well.  I also like to use a somewhat flexible adhesive like LiquidNails Subfloor adhesive to attach the plywood to the framework.  

Part 2:  choice of screw... As others have mentioned, drywall screws are brittle, and should not be used in load carrying applications.  A better fairly low cost solution are deck screws.  Not as strong as real wood screws, but just as easy to use as drywall screws, they come in a variety of drive head types, and they are designed for load barring applications.  

Part 3: Drywall screws are actually pretty tough if you work your design around their limitations.  Ex, make sure the load is on the wood and not on the screw.  frame work sitting on top of legs, rather than overlapping, etc.  2x4s and drywall screws have served well in theater sets holding up 20 dancing people for me, but depend on keeping the load off the screws.  

I can see that gluing will distribute the load on a very large surface hence it will be a lot more stable and stronger than screws every few inches or so.

when I build with wood I use screws and glue. But, screws will allow track changes.

HW; was the glue used for strength, noise reduction, reduce distortion to track, save money on screws or? Thx.

It's a given:  never use anything but screws to build your layout.

.....

Dennis

The use of TightBond wood glue was for strength and stability, i.e. if you bump into a corner of the layout it DOES NOT MOVER nor WIGLE! Nothing but TightBond wood glue was also used to lay the Vinyl Bed road bed as well as all the Atlas O track & turnouts, and that was for sound deadening.

The box has other functions.  Note the pencil/marker holder, Right back corner. Notch upper left, near the pipe handle, is a small cradle to hold conduit, when cutting, with a hacksaw.  I recently replaced the left end. Only original pieces, are the 1/2" conduit handle and the bottom.

Used as a wire reel cradle.

Screws and construction adhesive were used for assembly.  We have built other assemblies like this for scissors hoist and bucket truck work trays. 

Screws.

I went through the screw vs. nail decision, last month, when I started the benchwork for the new layout. 

As I already have two nailing guns and a compressor, I seriously thought about nailing most of the new benchwork together.  I think you could get a slighter nicer finish with nailing than with screws.  In the end, however, I decided to go with screws.  Not sure it really is any better, but I felt more comfortable going this route.

I'm building the benchwork with a 1"x3" frame, set on 2"x3" legs.  I have an unfinished basement, but where I can, I have screwed a 2"x3" onto the wall framing for the back of the benchwork frame.  I'm using decking screws were I can (much more affordable in the 5 lb box) and other regular wood screws were needed.  I have two drills, one for drilling and countersinking and a second drill to drive the screws.

When I build my retirement layout, in 10 years, I might opt for nailing what I can in order to get more of a furniture finish, as this layout would probably be in a family room.

Jim 

I have found that screws are better than nails. Only for the simple fact screws come out of the hole a lot easier. And with minimal or no damage to your bench work. And would be a lot easier to reassemble.

V\R

Klinekid

Even in the case of a furniture finish layout, the screws and/or glue make for a better option, THEN add trim to cover the screws with finish nails.  Or get seriously nice and use nothing but glue and pegs.  

I only use coarse thread drywall screws, no problems. The only time I've ever had then snap was when they were being inserted. Once in place they're just fine.

Oh yeah another vote for screws. 

The layout I built almost 30 years ago was done with old discarded shipping crates from Israel...made of hard oak...I nailed them to 2x4 pieces that were skid runners for the post's / legs. All the topside lumber was fastened with dry wall screws. Now that I have a nail gun I may use it in certain places, but the screws will be used again in most places. Oh, and when I disassembled the layout the nails came right out with a claw hammer! Most of the material was cull lumber from Home Depot!