Skip to main content

I keep my track, accessory and lighting on separate power sources. For years all of the floodlights, towers and building lights have been on a Z1000 brick and controller so I could raise and lower the brightness. Over time though I'm probably at the limits of the 100 watt brick. Last night the lights were periodically going up and down in brightness. I looked and there was a tiny fireworks show at the barrel jack where the brick plugs into the controller. The plug was really hot and has welded itself to the jack. So that system has failed. What are alternative ways to get variable power to the lights on a layout? Do I stick with O gauge transformers?

Thanks

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I'd start by calculating the load and sizing the power supply accordingly. If you are carrying more than 100w (or close), consider splitting up the load.

You can also replace a lot of the old incandescent lamps with LED's which will drop the power consumption dramatically.

The failure could have been as simple as a loose connection that heated up too. If the breaker in the brick didn't trip, then I'd lean toward this as your problem.

@RSJB18 posted:

I'd start by calculating the load and sizing the power supply accordingly. If you are carrying more than 100w (or close), consider splitting up the load.

You can also replace a lot of the old incandescent lamps with LED's which will drop the power consumption dramatically.

The failure could have been as simple as a loose connection that heated up too. If the breaker in the brick didn't trip, then I'd lean toward this as your problem.

Thanks, that's good insight. The breaker on the 100 watt brick has never tripped but I had it connected to a 75 watt brick and that DID trip so maybe it's the controller. As I type this I'm thinking that the failed controller connection has always been loose. I have another controller that I can connect. And I'll check to see if the connection gets hot. FWIW all of the Lionel light towers (2 and 4 bulb) are incandescent. Same with the MTH and I kind of like incandescent.

Will also look at the Malibu option.

I measured the power as recommended and got about 70 watts close to layout "full brightness" mode. 12.5 volts and 5.5 amps. So that explains why the 75 watt brick breaker was tripping. I also -- as recommended -- swapped the controller and found that even at 70 watts the barrel connector was cool to the touch. So that confirms the poor connection observation with the failed controller. Finally, if 12 volts provides the brightness I want then a Malibu power supply is a perfect solution for more power. In the end though I needed an excuse to buy a really cool refurbished 250 watt Lionel Z type transformer I found on eBay! Thanks for all of the spot on feedback and help. Just what I needed.

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×