I got busy today and forgot to check. I have a pair of Mountains here - bearings ought to be the same. I will try to check this evening.
Thanks, that will be really appreciated. While you're at it, could you see if the plate clamps down on the frame or the bearings?
Nope. Bearings are square. Plate definitely clamps on to the frame. Only chance is my 4-4-0, which currently rests in the Decathlon hangar. I will try to check tomorrow.
The bearings are actually square instead of round? Hmm, interesting. Okay, good to know that the plate should be clamping on the frame for sure.
So, my current options that I see are:
1. File a flat face on the bearings, or 2. File the slots for the bearings deeper.
Filing a flat face on them seems like the way to go - I'll wait to hear what you find on your 4-4-0 though, I'm not in a big rush to do this.
My 4-4-0 has flat spots on the bottom of the bearings to match the bottom plate.
Thanks! Seems like I'm going to be filing my bearings now. Shouldn't be too bad, I'll give y'all an update on how it goes.
It's the right thing to do. Even if it is wrong, you are not destroying the bearings. They still have 270 degree flanges, and you can rotate them up.
I admit to never following instructions - most of my A-N locomotives are seriously modified - and only two have the original B&O drivers. The rest have Lobaugh, and most have new frames with individual pedestal binders.
Those modified ones sound neat, feel free to post photos, I wouldn't mind seeing what these kits can look like with modifications.
In my case, I probably won't be modifying this locomotive much at all - I like the old-school nature of this kit, so I'll retain the originality of it. Only thing I think I'll do is change out the tender trucks - I have a nice pair of Auel Super-Detailed trucks (with working journal box lids) that may look good with this locomotive.
Thanks for the help everyone! Now, after filing a flat spot on all the bearings, the plate is able to clamp down on the frame without binding any of the drivers, and it's rolling smoothly.
Now onto my next issues, I think I mentioned these before:
I don't have instructions for the boiler or tender sections of the locomotive. Maybe someone could photograph their instructions for me? That would be really appreciated.
Neither of these parts are critical, but I'm missing both piston rod bushings and one of the screws that attaches the eccentric rod to the eccentric crank (I currently have a different screw in its place). Does anyone have a parts locomotive that I might be able to get those parts from?
Good news about the bearings; I may have some instruction sheets. Will check tomorrow...
Mark in Oregon
Just use an 0-80 screw and some Loctite for the eccentric rod. Steel is better; Micro-Fasteners have them.
You really don't need the piston rod packing, but I suspect some brass tubing and solder would fix you right up. Of course owning a good lathe would help, but the tubing is almost as easy.
I know, I'm not too worried about any of those parts, but owing to my goal of originality, having the correct parts would be quite nice. I've already found a screw to replace the one for the eccentric rod, though I'd still like to replace it with a correct original.
There's no rush to these, since none of these parts are critical.
Hey Strummer, have you checked for those instructions sheets?
@Johnbeere posted:Hey Strummer, have you checked for those instructions sheets?
Here's what I have:
If interested, PM me with your mailing address and I will send you a copy.
Mark in Oregon
PS: It's weird. I don't have any of the AN/GM/Varney locos except the Ten Wheeler, yet that is the only model I don't have boiler instructions for... 
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Thanks! I would be happy with just legible pictures of all the pages, but if you'd like to send me a copy that would be even better.
So... How do I send DMs? I haven't fully learned how to do everything on here yet.
@Strummer posted:Here's what I have:
If interested, PM me with your mailing address and I will send you a copy.
Mark in Oregon
PS: It's weird. I don't have any of the AN/GM/Varney locos except the Ten Wheeler, yet that is the only model I don't have boiler instructions for...
I have that problem with Scale Craft K-4's lol and they are by far the most common SC loco!!
@Johnbeere posted:Thanks! I would be happy with just legible pictures of all the pages, but if you'd like to send me a copy that would be even better.
So... How do I send DMs? I haven't fully learned how to do everything on here yet.
I think if you go to my profile page, you can get my email address there... I'll keep an eye out in case your message goes into my spam folder...
Mark in Oregon
I believe you need to set a "display email" in your profile settings, I don't see any email on your profile.
Okay, let's see if that works...
Mark in Oregon
While waiting for the instructions, I've been thinking about what locomotive I should letter this as. Probably a USRA Light Pacific, since it roughly is one. One candidate I've thought of is the ACL 1504, which stands out to me as I've seen it in person. There are definitely detail differences though - the pilot and trailing truck, the Engineer's side running boards, etc., so it's not a perfect match without changing details - which in this case I don't want to do.
But then, I was thinking... Maybe the tender could be lettered "General Models Corporation". I think that might be neat, considering especially that there really is no real life prototype to this, and it's simply a creation of General Models. That doesn't solve what number I'd use though. Any ideas on how I might make/acquire custom decals like that?
@Johnbeere posted:While waiting for the instructions, I've been thinking about what locomotive I should letter this as. Probably a USRA Light Pacific, since it roughly is one.
When I applied for Social Security, there was a question on the form if I worked for "the railroad." Not "a" railroad, but "the" railroad. As if there was only one railroad in the US.
I found this amusing, so here is my solution to your quandary:
Rusty
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Lol, don't think that's quite what I'm going for! Little too generic, though it does fit the generic design of this locomotive.
By the way, any idea what kind of trucks those are on the tender in that builder's photo? Not sure I recognize them.
@Johnbeere posted:While waiting for the instructions, I've been thinking about what locomotive I should letter this as. Probably a USRA Light Pacific, since it roughly is one. One candidate I've thought of is the ACL 1504, which stands out to me as I've seen it in person. There are definitely detail differences though - the pilot and trailing truck, the Engineer's side running boards, etc., so it's not a perfect match without changing details - which in this case I don't want to do.
But then, I was thinking... Maybe the tender could be lettered "General Models Corporation". I think that might be neat, considering especially that there really is no real life prototype to this, and it's simply a creation of General Models. That doesn't solve what number I'd use though. Any ideas on how I might make/acquire custom decals like that?
It reminds me a little bit of the WM 200 class, if you omit the steps to the running boards.
Hmm, there's some similarities to that one, but I think it's much closer to a USRA Light Pacific. Probably not going to really find anything it's closer to, since it was made as a very generic design. I wonder why General Models didn't model a more specific locomotive - maybe they thought if it was generic it could be made to represent other engines? Kind of a strange decision.
I actually really like the idea of lettering it as "General Models Corporation", but that's going to require decals to be made for it. Not sure how I can go about that.
@Johnbeere posted:Hmm, there's some similarities to that one, but I think it's much closer to a USRA Light Pacific. Probably not going to really find anything it's closer to, since it was made as a very generic design. I wonder why General Models didn't model a more specific locomotive - maybe they thought if it was generic it could be made to represent other engines? Kind of a strange decision.
I actually really like the idea of lettering it as "General Models Corporation", but that's going to require decals to be made for it. Not sure how I can go about that.
Gee, with that fat boiler, to my mind the GM model looks kinda like a heavy(er) Pacific...
In any case, I will be mailing you those instructions later today. 
Mark in Oregon
I think it's the domes that make it look closer to a light pacific that a heavy pacific - the heavy pacifics have more squashed domes. Also, the photos in the instructions show a smaller tender than these normally came with (or at least the one mine came with) - I think the small tender makes the boiler look bigger than it is.
Thanks again for those instructions - I'd be lost without them.
I always thought it was close to the Light Pacific. The tender trucks are Commonwealth; CLW sells them. Castings are gorgeous!
The instructions came in today, thanks @Strummer!
It seems that the second section requires more special taps and drills - I'll be ordering them soon.
In the mean time, I've been slowly cleaning up the boiler casting with files and sand paper - it's turning out nicely.
Strangely, I don't see where in the instructions it details how you mount the backhead. Is it soldered on?
Wow, that was quick; glad you got them, safe and sound. Best of luck with the build...and don't forget to take photos!
Mark in Oregon
Sure, I can take some photos of where I'm at later this evening.
Here's some pictures of where I'm at:
I like how realistic the valve gear is, although it was quite a fiddly job to set the rivets. My kit actually came with 4 extra rivets.
I decided to mount an old scale operating coupler on it, and set up to open when the bar is pulled. (I can't seem to remember the proper terminology for that bar...)
The boiler sitting on the frame, I still have more filing to do before it sits properly on the steam chest saddle. Currently, the front of the boiler is resting its weight on the steps, instead of the steam chest.
The back of the motor slightly sticks out from the back of the boiler, this is going to be a big issue later when I need to attach the backhead. Any ideas?
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Yes. Leave the back head off.
That's disappointing. Are you sure there isn't a way to move the motor forwards or something? I'll probably experiment if I can before I decide that I need to leave it off.
It looks great so far. I think it's called a coupler "lift bar".
Maybe you can find a motor with the shorter stack: otherwise, I don't see much else you can do. I'm hoping to someday find one of those for my Ten Wheeler, but so far have had no luck...
Mark in Oregon
So, I've tried moving the motor forward, and managed to move it a little bit... But not enough. It's sticking out about 1/32 of an inch... So close. I'll try for a bit longer to see if I can get it to move any more forward.
Edit:
I'll add that what I had to do was to tighten the curve of the motor mounting bracket by holding it with a vice and flattening the curve with a hammer. It tightened just enough to move the motor in some.
This was quick: After removing it, and pushing it forward while reinstalling it, I managed to move it forward just enough to fit. I'm glad I was able to manage that, now the backhead can be installed.
By the way @Strummer, this motor might be what you're looking for: https://www.ebay.com/itm/293869243294
The photos aren't good enough to be sure, but it looks a lot like the motor I have, but with a shorter stack.
A bit of an update... I've been working on trying to fit the boiler to the chassis, and have the boiler level and upright. This has been more challenging than it ought to be.
I needed to lower the motor so that the boiler could sit lower, and to do that I had to use some washers under the front of the motor bracket in order to raise the front, so I could lower the motor without changing the mesh of the worm gear. This turned out well, except the motor now sticks out of the firebox again, and I don't think it's fixable this time. I may be able to use a dremel to cut a cavity out of the backhead to give just enough clearance for it to be mounted.
I've also had to do a lot of filing to get the smokebox to sit down properly on the steam chest, and now I'm finding out that the mounting hole in the bottom of the boiler may be ever so slightly offset, which causes the boiler to lean a bit when tightened. I may need to fill that hole by soldering a screw into it and re-drilling the hole, but I'm not confident in my ability to get it perfect. Maybe I can rely on the cab to hold the boiler straight up and down while drilling the new hole, using the hole through the steam chest as a guide for the drill bit.
Sounds like quite the project. Hang in there and keep us posted!
Mark in Oregon
