New LC+ 2.0 0-6-0T Engine - Rear Coupler Won't Open

Hi 0-Gauge CJ,

I had the same issue with an LC+ steamer electro coupler and thought it was broken or something, until i raised the track power up and boom!, it worked. Try upping the voltage on your track power a little bit.  (I always try the easy fix first )

Thank you so much for the suggestion. I just remembered I was having some small power problems on the layout (too many idle engines and powered cars). I will power up the layout again later and see if that solves my problem - thanks for the idea!

If that doesn't do it, touch the coupler as you try to fire it, see if you feel any vibration.  It may just be a balky coupler, but if there's no sign that it's trying to open, then it's more likely inside.

John, thank you for the idea. I took a second loco and a powered car (smoking reefer) off the layout and powered up the layout - rear coupler will still not fire. Per John's suggestion, I put a finger on the rear coupler while firing it with the Universal remote, and I could feel a faint vibration. I did the same for the front coupler, and there was a noticably stronger vibration. So it seems there's at least some power getting to the rear coupler. Do I have any more options before calling a service center? Thanks again for all the help!

Well, if you have 60-18 volts on the track at the locomotive and the coupler doesn't fire, then it's probably going to have some kind of service.  You might see if you can manually open the coupler.  Take a paperclip and straighten it.  Poke it in the coupler coil to release the coupler, see if it releases easily and closes without binding.  It may be a bad coupler, but it might also be wiring.  I wouldn't do many more coupler tries, if it's pinched wiring, you may cook the board, that will take longer to fix.

Hi John, thank you again for offering your insight. When I shine a flashlight into the rear coupler a see silver cylinder that I presume is the coupler coil - using the paperclip to give that a firm push open the coupler. While the coupler is technically "open" it seems it isn't open all the way. I am not sure how to describe it, but you know how the couplers have that internal portion that slides out when the coupler opens, that's attached to the opening component? That internal sliding piece won't come out all the way on the rear coupler.

"I recently bought a LC+ 2.0 0-6-0T engine (Santa Fe)" as the OP stated, well so did I.  It arrived in the mail today and I'm having the same problem with the rear coupler.  I'll see if I can manually open it.

Joe

The nice thing about the 0-6-0T is the unusual coupler design, you can actually remove the little screws and disassemble the couplers to see what is causing the issue.

Try a little graphite powder as a lubricant.  Works with some stubborn door locks. Won't do any harm and might work.

Another thing to try is use of electronic device cleaner/conductivity spray.

If it's something obstructing function such as flashing, that would require disassembly to diagnose, most likely.

Reading through the comments, the only thing I could add is I had the same problem with my tank engine for a few days after I got it. I turned the power up a little bit (all the way up to 18 volts) and then it worked. I've used a Cab-1, the app and a universal remote and had all the same issue until the transformer was up to 18 volts.

@Berkshirelover726 posted:

Reading through the comments, the only thing I could add is I had the same problem with my tank engine for a few days after I got it. I turned the power up a little bit (all the way up to 18 volts) and then it worked. I've used a Cab-1, the app and a universal remote and had all the same issue until the transformer was up to 18 volts.

I have had the exact same experience.

In general, electrocouplers on TMCC stuff don't work reliably at lower voltages, it hinges on how they're powered.  I notice that Legacy changed the method of powering the couplers to DC voltage and they work at lower track voltages.  However, it appears that the LC+ and LC+ 2.0 still depend on track voltage being at least 16 volts for reliability in opening the couplers.

Coupler Fixed ???  OK  I have been using a short section of lionel track as a test track. This is the new style of track with the molded roadbed.  Originally I had a Lionel powerpack plugged into the track.  It's an 80 watt DC powerpack and the voltage on the track read 18.2 volts. So the lack of voltage wasn't the issue, but no matter what I did the rear coupler wouldn't open (although you could hear it). I later tried a MRC variable voltage DC transformer from the 90's. It's really meant for HO scale trains but it's rated at 160 watts and can reach 19 volts, again the front coupler would open fine from 14 volts to 18.3 volts (I never went above 18.3 volts) and the rear coupler wouldn't open.  Today I decided I would take apart the rear coupler and have a look at it.  Before I did this I set the train on my main layout which is powered by an old ZW transformer. Long story short with the old AC transformer both the couplers work great! Even with the voltage down to 13 volts. Lionel states not to use AC with bluetooth control.  Thoughts anyone?

Regards,

Joe

" Coupler Fixed ???  OK  I have been using a short section of lionel track as a test track. This is the new style of track with the molded roadbed.  Originally I had a Lionel powerpack plugged into the track.  It's an 80 watt DC powerpack and the voltage on the track read 18.2 volts. So the lack of voltage wasn't the issue, but no matter what I did the rear coupler wouldn't open (although you could hear it). I later tried a MRC variable voltage DC transformer from the 90's. It's really meant for HO scale trains but it's rated at 160 watts and can reach 19 volts, again the front coupler would open fine from 14 volts to 18.3 volts (I never went above 18.3 volts) and the rear coupler wouldn't open.  Today I decided I would take apart the rear coupler and have a look at it.  Before I did this I set the train on my main layout which is powered by an old ZW transformer. Long story short with the old AC transformer both the couplers work great! Even with the voltage down to 13 volts. Lionel states not to use AC with bluetooth control.  Thoughts anyone? "

New to trains and such, but i too have this little loco and rear coupler issue while using fast track.  The front opens anywhere on my track but the rear one only opens when within 10 inches from powered track plug in.  I guess i need to test the tract voltages around the track and the continuity?  Any thoughts.

Check the voltages, I see lower voltages as a problem for these couplers.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Check the voltages, I see lower voltages as a problem for these couplers.

I agree. Rear electrocoupler on mine usually works at 18 to 20 volts.

This is in contrast to MTH Proto 3 electrocouplers which work flawlessly in my experience.

For those, like me, who love to do switching, the reliability of the electrocouplers is important.

A helpful thread.  I just acquired one of these and have been looking online for a PDF of the Owner's Manual.  The Lionel sites don't seem to have the manuals link.  Anyone know of a place online where I can obtain a PDF of the manual for the 0-6-0t Lionchief Plus 2.0 loco?

Thanks.

@FrankfordJunction posted:

A helpful thread.  I just acquired one of these and have been looking online for a PDF of the Owner's Manual.  The Lionel sites don't seem to have the manuals link.  Anyone know of a place online where I can obtain a PDF of the manual for the 0-6-0t Lionchief Plus 2.0 loco?

Thanks.

Use an example from the previous 2020 run of these engines.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...ylvania-2295-0-6-0-T

Manual link from bottom of that support page https://www.lionelsupport.com/...032010250LC2060T.pdf

Take a look at this thread, I took the couplers apart to improve their function.

A Look at the Lionel LC+ 2.0 0-6-0T New Coupler Design

I also had nothing but problems with my LC+2 0-6-0 couplers. Tried new parts from Lionel, took the couplers apart, ground down certain areas that seemed to be binding, etc. Finally the back one started working. I have no idea why. And then the front one stopped working. Finally just gave up trying to get the front one to work. I'm going to check out the tread John noted and see if there's anything there that'll help.

I took them all apart and polished all the mating surfaces.  I also did a little cleaning of the tube, basically I polished anything I could reach.

If they still don't function properly, it's time to punch out the coupler rivet and smooth those surfaces on the knuckle.  It's similar to what I've done with standard electrocouplers, I've been able to make them really smooth and easy enough to couple that you don't have to ram the locomotive into the rolling stock to couple up.

Front Coupler on mine:

I ended up stretching out the spring a little, upping the power, and then it worked.

John

As Tim Taylor was fond of saying, "More Power Always Helps!"

Vernon,

Thanks so much for the links.  You've ended an hour plus of frustration with the Lionel Support site.   I'll put your help to good use with my new "cute" Reading switcher.  All the best.