I sent the following email to Weaver Models since they do ERR upgrades but anyone willing to weigh in with their opinion is more than welcome.
Hi,
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I sent the following email to Weaver Models since they do ERR upgrades but anyone willing to weigh in with their opinion is more than welcome.
Hi,
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I sent the following email to Weaver Models since they do ERR upgrades but anyone willing to weigh in with their opinion is more than welcome.
Hi,
I'm no expert, but usually if the horn comes on and stays on, there is a problem with the optical sensor or that motor has stopped rotating. Check the tach-strip, some have come loose. Also adjust the gap between the reader head and the tach strip.
Mike CT
Actually, given these symptoms, I think the first thing I'd do is check the antenna and swap the R2LC with a known good one. Any R2LC-C08 version could be used as a test, just make sure you reprogram it for the locomotive.
Since the Cruise Commander also includes the R2LC, and it doesn't require a tach reader, I'm sure it would fix it. OTOH, you may have a simple issue that doesn't require spending that much money. Remember, the sound is also on the EOB board, so you'd have to replace the sound as well.
That's why I suggested swapping the R2LC.
Obviously, the Cruise Commander/RailSounds Commander will fix it, but you'll also have $200 of electronics plus the installation to deal with for each locomotive. As long as that's not an issue, it'll certainly be more satisfactory than using the EOB, at least IMO.
I'm waffling on this. I might decide to buy a "parts" engine and use the R2LC as a swap. After running the engine this afternoon I'm even more convinced it's the receiver board.
I ran the engine for a second time today, for about an hour, and it was fine. I did notice that the speed bar graph on the CAB-2 reset it self to zero even though I was in speed step 16 when I last checked. That little red light in the middle of the remote would flash when I tried to "find" the engine. The info. screen couldn't locate the engine no matter how many times I pressed it. It's like there was signal interference.
Send me an email, a R2LC is pretty cheap, no reason to buy a whole engine to get one.
I'm not sure what you're "finding", TMCC/Legacy is a one-way interface, the track signal is just a broadcast. The red light on the remote indicates communication with the base, but problems there would have nothing to do with the engine.
A corollary to your signature...
Never argue with an idiot, they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience!
When I tap the info button on my CAB-2 it brings up the road name and road # that I assigned to that locomotive. Sometimes, especially with the aforementioned engine, the info button when pressed displays, "ERROR, PLEASE TRY AGAIN."
I will let you know about that R2LC by 11:00 tonight, possibly sooner, as I've already submitted a bid on an Atlas GP35. I placed the minimum bid so I suspect that I will be outbid as the auction nears its conclusion.
It's a new engine so I think it will sell for more than $199.95. If not then great, I'll have myself a new locomotive for a pretty cheap price.
I was under the impression that R2LC boards were scarce and would be difficult to find by themselves. Thanks!
$199 would be nice for a new Atlas with TMCC.
R2LC boards are readily available, you can still get new ones from Lionel.
You need to become acquainted with Gixen, the only way I bid on stuff on eBay.
The PN for an R2LC-C08 from Lionel is: 691R2LCC08. Cost is $40.00+S&H.
S&H for one part from Lionel is pretty steep, one reason I tend to batch orders.
Well, just as I expected, I was outbid. For anyone that's interested, there are 2 brand new Milwaukee Road GP35s that are going to sell for a good price unless there are a flurry of late bids.
I use "Auction Sniper" to submit last second bids for items I really want. I didn't care one way or another for this auction so that's why I bid with 5 hours still left on the clock.
I just bought the last R2LC-C08 board from Boxcar Bill for $39 which included shipping. He seems to have good prices plus he's in Ohio and I'm in Pennsylvania.
I'll try the "cheap" fix before I decide to perform a full upgrade. I'll be happy either way. If this works then I saved a lot of money. If I need an upgrade then I'll have a smoother running, better sounding locomotive.
Thanks for all of the advice and insight!
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