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Last year I bought several 2 rail wood caboose kits that I wanted to try building some of my own rolling stock and 3 railing.  I believe they are from the mid 70s.   I have searched on the forum for info on using older decals, but none of the topics had any thing on decals that are 50 years old.  Various internet searches say that hitting them with gloss coat while still on the sheet before cutting them was recommended and then when applying them to use solvaset to set them on to a wood surface with a prior gloss finish  The kits are by ambroid and quality craft models.  Am I making mistake using the decals.   Appreciate any insight you might be able to provide.

I started on the nickel plate one first.  I still have a NP and C&O wooden cabooses to start in the near future.

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Thanks!

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Best to use a product like Microscales that was made specifically for decals. Some decals like Champ do stand up to time. Others like Walther's don't. If you cut some of the blank area that has decal film but no useful lettering, put it some water and see if releases in a sheet and not disintegrate. If its able to do that you might not have to use an additional coating.

Pete

Last edited by Norton

I have sprayed old decals, that fell apart on trying to remove from backup sheet with water, with two coats of clear spray paint and had great results.  This was welcome news as all my decal are very old.

Charlie

PS:   after applying the decals I spray them with clear - glossy, semi-gloss or flat, which ever the model is to seal the decal on and to level them and make them invisible.  I learned to seal all decals for model airplanes and used clear fuel proof dope.

Last edited by Choo Choo Charlie

I personally stay away from using such older decals. Anything you coat the decals with is going to make them thicker, thus making it harder to hide the decal cut lines. Plus older decals tend to be printed on a thicker stock to begin with.

I may be repainting "027 scale" items, but I still like to attain a professional looking result, and that also means having the most minimal cut lines I can attain showing around decals. You also want to use a gloss surface finish when repainting your cars. Decals adhere best to gloss surfaces.

I would take Pingman up on his offer, or try searching for more recent production decals. I have a listing of decal makers on my repaint thread. But here's a couple more I have recently found out about.

https://k4decals.com/products/...riant=31658578542651

https://www.tichytraingroup.co...-6-sets/Default.aspx

When you go to the above sites, you'll have to search around to see if they have anything that suits you. But they both appear to have a nice selection given the increasing difficulty in finding suitable decals these days.

Good luck.

 

 

Have built multiple old Ambroid, Gloor, Quality Craft wood kits, using the enclosed decals.  Lost only one common ATSF b/w  square logo....easily replaced with current Microscale stock. 

But, I do usually put a couple coats of Microscale Decal Film on the old decals.  I don't know whether it's necessary or not, I tend to take the 'safe' approach on this sort of enigma.  Many of these kits were designed around a specific prototype, and those decals included with the kit tend to be unique to that model.   For example, when was the last time you saw a set of these kit decals offered for sale separately at a train show, on Ebay, etc.??  Oh, sure, you can get the decals if you buy a complete kit on the secondary market, but decals, only???.........never seen them offered.  Cataloged Champ, Microscale, Walthers decals from yore?.....they're out there.   But those unique ones included in the kits?......

The thicker film witness is not a biggie with me, the only one to be satisfied in this process.  Besides, when putting these decals onto a scribed surface...especially painted wood...the film thickness is much less noticeable than when applied to a smooth wood/plastic/metal surface.   The more tedious thing in applying decals to scribed material is scoring the film after application, a couple of coats of Solvaset or Microscale Set, and allowing the film to dry.  Any film that bridges the scribed gaps will look bad...IMHO, of course...after the clear coating....and subsequent aging.  In fact, for a variety of reasons, mostly mysterious to me, clear decal films not bonded or poorly so to the surface tend to look worse through the years.   

All that said, I am indeed curious to know of a duplicating service for old decals....at a reasonable price.  In fact, I've been hoping for such for about 60 years!....the last time i built one of those old HO Strombecker passenger train kits....the ones with humongous decals that covered the entire diesel engine!   I learned part of Dad's 'blue vocabulary' when he tried applying one of those decals to a B&O kit engine I had prepared.   Well, Strombecker was still around back then, and they replaced the set, advising Dad to cut the large decal into smaller pieces, carefully applying each piece, matching the joints carefully (?), etc., etc..  It went.....'better'...the second time, but not without stress...and grateful acceptance of Dad's best effort.   Now in my so-called golden years, bitten by the nostalgic bug, I acquired a couple of those old Strombecker kits again,  being sure that the all-important decal sheet therein was not pre-fragmented, not curled into a tube shape, and not yellowed/mottled.  But, I haven't built them....yet....because of lingering concern for those old, irreplaceable decals.  I'd LOVE to find someone who could take those precious sheets in all their graphic glory and make a handful of duplicates on current films....just in case.

If I was aware of a current production set of decals that would be appropriate to an old model kit....satisfying to the only customer that counts.....moi....,  I guess I'd forge ahead and use the old set with or without application of additional film.  Otherwise, I'd follow some of the suggestions offered above.

Good luck!

FWIW, always...

KD

What a timely post.

Other than eBay, which seems hit or miss, does anyone have a stash of these old kits?  I cam across a website that seemed to have inventory some time ago and cant find it now...

I just picked up a bunch of old Champ NYO&W decal sets, and am concerned of their "shelf life".

Has anyone used Testors Decal Bonder Spray (used for protecting ink  printed on their decal film) for the purpose of strengthening old decal film?

Also,  I would guess Walthers Solvaset (which I have used) works equally well as Microsol.

-Jim

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