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MWB has the correct idea,I just used a zona saw & cut through the part of the lid that holds the coupler. Why any model maker made such a difficult design lid is beyond reason. There are modelers on here that just apply preassure to the tag in the back & a screw driver to the lid tab & it opens,but I was never that fortunate.

Al Hummel

Got a follow-up question for the experienced guys: I've been trying to find a way to carefully open the box to remove them (The Atlas couplers) and replace them with Kadee couplers; BUT...the cut lever is positioned so it passes directly over the offending coupler box. It's attached tightly to the car bottom on one end; (difficult to remove without undue force) and the bracket on the other. If you apply any amount of pressure, you most likely will rip the cut lever off the car end, creating one more time consuming problem to repair. Anybody have a method for doing this without creating a mess?

I've tried 2 tiny screwdrivers simultaneously prying the lid while bending the box around the tab to release. I've tried hack saw blades and even razor knife blades. Sometimes it works, and sometimes things crack. It almost is a one time box. It has to be bent out so severely to release, that I swear it wasn't made to be re-opened. I'm not one to cut things normally but this might be the time?

Thanks for all the responses.  I'm trying to extensively bash and detail a model to p48 standards.  I'm considering using a Protocraft coupler but I'm not sure which draft gear box to use.  The Atlas box has some detailing molded in, while the Protocraft and Kadee boxes look more appropriate for rolling stock.  If necessary, I'll fabricate new draft gear to get the correct look.

Jim

Engineer-Joe posted:

I've tried 2 tiny screwdrivers simultaneously prying the lid while bending the box around the tab to release. I've tried hack saw blades and even razor knife blades.

Suggest an anvil and a good sharp chisel; a good, smart rap with a 48 oz hammer and all the problems go away....

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