It was suggested to me to check the connections on my Baby Blue Comet tin-plate set (PS3 made by MTH) in this thread here. I believe the boards are in the tender. I do not see any screws anywhere on the tender that would allow for me to 'open it up'.
this is the set:
Can you tell me how to open it up? BTW: I read the on-line manual. It shows how to open the engine to grease it but there's nothing about opening the tender.
thanks - walt
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I believe it slides off.
Scott Smith
A Jon G responded in the thread that I pointed to above. He said that the board that controls/powers the headlight is actually in the engine, which I've removed the shell from a few times. So that's good news.
BTW: he also said there's 6 screws on the bottom of the tender under the trucks. I'll be darned if I see them!
- walt
he was referring to the engine to 6 screws and take top off! he suspects problem in your engine wire harness to resolder connections as there were common issues with cold solder connections!headlight is powered by the boiler board in the loco. The shell is removed with 5 screws, one in the stack, two at the back of the cab, two under the rear truck next to the firebox bulb. Check the connections at the boiler board and the wires going to the heat shrink tubing at the LED headlight (poor solder connections are common). The firebox bulb shares the same power source as the headlight, so check any junction of the blue (typically) wires.
Alan
The tender screws are smaller Philip heads and usually under the trucks. I would not mess with it as your LED HL problem IS in the engine. G
I had a similar issue that was already answered.
The key is get the six screws out, then slide the cast piece out the front and slide the shell towards the rear. Don’t try to lift it straight up off the frame!
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