Ow5, 17/64, proto48 etc....Lets talk just track!

Here's a few, 95% of my track is hand layed, code .148 steel rail (Ow5), ties are from Kappler and the rail,tie plates etc. are from Right O' Way. 

Frog and Guard rails from ROW along with tie plates.

Siding work.

Also a larger shot of the same area as seen above.

OK Chris,

Looks great. Nice video's too.

Is .148 steel rail better, cheaper, easier or _____(fill in the blanks)?

Rick

Wish I had something, I am just a plain ol' 3-railer with Fastrack right now. Nothing comparable to CWEX's track work

Chris, You be da man! Incredible trackwork! Malcolm

Hi Rick,

For me I found it to be easier to work with in terms of bending for various radius's, it cuts easily and files well.  Is it cheaper?...Yes purchased all of my rail and other detail items from Right O' Way and for 100' of NS the price is $99 and for 100' of steel the price is $63 so there is a big price difference.  Another thing is the final appearance the NS has a goldish tinge to it where as the steel rail has that shiny steel look of the proto type which I preferred.   You can see this is my 2nd photo, compare the guard rail to the rail itself. 

     If you have a basement with a high moisture level than the steel rail is more susceptible to corrosion if not cared for, my rails are all weathered and I have put a extremely light coat of oil on the rail heads and my basement is very dry so I haven't had any corrosion problems and no operational problems either.  The NS track will resist this better IMHO.  I am using code .148 for my main lines and some sidings and .125 for the engine facility with some code .100 for smaller industry sidings, the lighter rail makes for a much better appearance in those areas and is true to the proto type in most cases.    

*Thanks Malcolm, I am working on my TT and RH area right now..once I have it to where I am happy I will post more photos.  Your track work is amazing as well...I remember your photos, not to mention the great work on your turnouts.  Do you still have your 2 rail layout up or did you switch over to 3 rail?  I know you photographed your latest caboose projects on 2 rail, just not sure if you kept all of it up.. I don't recall if you made the final decision.

FWIW,  I use steel rail, for the lower cost and   better [opinion] look.  There are many corrosion inhibitors available for rail, and if  any abrasive is used on any rail, there goes the  conductivity of the rail  [opinion and fact].

Of course, using self contained  battery and R/C  in the locos, I do not worry.  I have  not cleaned the rails in couple years, and the steel rail has not rusted .

Ed Reutling

I am not an operator, and I lay lousy track.  I have one loop of ROW steel, one of ROW nickel- silver, and two of beat up old Atlas brass, nickel plated, pulled from the older flex track.  Switches are all Old Pullman nickel- silver except for a few ROW cast frogs.

Environment is Southern California, with a roof over it, but plenty of chances for moist air to come directly in, not unlike a covered patio with some walls.

Visually, I see no difference. Operationally, I think I have to care for the steel a bit more near the openings in the west wall.  Like Chris, I keep a coat of light oil on the rail head.

I do cut my own ties out of scrap lumber, and plan to do some ballasting.  Next time I am going to cut the superelevation back to maybe less than 1/8" measured at the outer portion of the ties.

My best guess - ROW products are superb.  Use them if you hand lay.  Pay particular attention to gauge, and for curves, use a rail bender.  But the real key is the wheels and electrical pickup - carbon steel and lots of wheels for each polarity, and if you superelevate, you need flexible suspension.  When I go to five axles on a steam model, I go with fully sprung drivers. All cars have one truck with lateral freedom.

 Once track is artistically blended into your railroad with appropriate scenic elements, it's origin loses some of it's importance to be replaced by the finished view and functional worth.

The first photo show an example of trackwork being developed using Micro-Eng code 125 flextrack and handlaid turnouts built using Fast Track fixtures...just basic stuff on cork roadbed on 2 inch thick foamboard over 1/2" plywood. A trouble free method for several years to any who might wonder.

This second photo shows this same area with complete scenic developement...Ballast, adjoining ground cover of one sort or another, appropriate sidings serving customers of the RR,...etc etc.

What was once quite common and messy in the first photo has become a miniature railroad, and that track (regardless of it's origin) is but a single element of a much bigger purpose. Lay whatever track you chose, but do it carefully so someday an operator or just a visiting neighbors kid can run your trains derailment free, and be spellbound by the entire experience.

Just do it! Sorry Nike....

Bob

O scale is such a cool scale to work with. The details show through better the most scales aside from G scale. Some really excellent examples of had laid track guys. In my opinion hand laid track is a lot of work but worth the effort. I am doing it a little bit differently but all roads (or rail roads) lead to Roam.

This a better picture of the track work on the Chaffee Branch of the WM Rwy.

Leonard very nice work, what are you working with there?

Thanks Criss, I guess the caption does not show with the picture. I am working in Proto:48 standards. Masonite spline sub bed covered with homasote 440 board with 60* bevel road bed. Ties are Mt. Albert 7"x9"x 8'6" distressed and stained with Hunters tie stain. Monster Model Works 4 bolt code 138 tie plates. Right O way code 138 steel rail and 4 bolt joint bars spiked with Walthers code 70/83 spikes in spike pattern B for under 65 MPH service.  Woodland Scenics medium gray ballast. Rail and tie plates painted with Floquil rail brown paint. I still have to install rail anti creepers, 2ed coat of rail paint, more fill in ballast, and weather track, ties, and ballast with a light wash of earth/dust and oil stain. And a couple of shots of sand to top it off.  

Thanks for the information Leonard.  I have looked at the tie plates from MMW and I like what they have there, a very nice detail part which for me is where it's at and a must have.  I love what you are doing and hope you will continue to post photos of your work, it's a treat to see such great modeling. 

Thanks Gents.

Much inspiration here......

Rick.

here is ME 148 code weatherized with brown camo.

camo and weatherizing powder.

AG.

Andre I love the coloring of the rails, in the second photo the rail looks mighty rusty.

Guys,

Good looking trackwork you've posted.

Here is some of my work. Rebuilt OP turnouts with ROW frogs and tie plates. Other than turnouts is Atlas track. Nothing here is painted or weathered yet.