Paint Match For Williams/Samhongsa Brass Pacific/Mikado?

Not to wise-off, but black is pretty much black, is it not? In terms of sheen/gloss,

that would all be evened out by whatever clear overspray you employ after the

lettering process is complete.

I have found that Model Master acrylics are excellent and leave no brush marks. I would

use the gloss black, as those Williams brass locos (love them) were very shiny, then

after the over spray - I'm assuming flat or at least matte - the blending should be

pretty acceptable. (BTW, careful with hardware-store clear overspray; there can be

paint-compatibility tragedies - I know. Dullcote/Glosscote from Testors seems to

be friendly with everything. Too bad that there is not a Testors "Mattecote" - is there?) 

I don't do shiny steamers, so If you really need a glossy, matching boiler/tender,

you'd better repaint both pieces with the same glossy black.  

Not to wise-off, but black is pretty much black, is it not?

Actually no, that's why I asked.  Floquil Steam Power Black is different from their Grimy Black, Weathered Black, Flat Black, and Glossy Black.

Among the reasons I don't want to repaint the entire boiler is because the smoke box and ash pan/firebox are graphite/silver/aluminum (whatever that color is they used).  Leaving the boiler as is, is what I prefer, so I'd like to get the tender as close as possible to the type/shade/opacity of the glossy black boiler.  Someone thought they used an automotive paint on the brass when I posted about the 2-8-2 I bought last year but we never came to a conclusion as to what was actually used.

I may have to paint the entire engine, but my original quest was to find a match.

I hope you're right in that any glossy black will work, maybe a cheap Testors rattle can is all I need, or maybe I'll try some of the new Tru-Color paint

Floquil Engine Black is their true black. The others are lighter or grayer shades of black. Floquil Gloss applied after the base coat has dried will give a glossy finish. If too glossy you can mix it with Glaze to reduce the gloss.

For rattle can work I use PJ1 paints. Their special satin black is pretty close to what most manufacturers are using on their scale steam engines. Their gloss might work for a Williams engine. Its very durable paint, not Imron but quite chip resistant for a single part paint.

Pete

Thanks Pete!  The black on the engine is very glossy and quite hard and almost slick feeling (baked on?), but a bath in 91% alcohol takes it off (at least it did on the Mikado).

I have to redo the whistle and I've got new domes on order, so I may end up painting the whole engine anyway.  I got some Champ ACL decals to use but they date the engine to circa (always wanted to use that word) 1940.

Bob, if you decide to just paint the tender I would start with a test panel and try a few combinations until you are satisfied the sheen matches. If you paint both then its not that critical.

Pete

Pete, good idea, I just need to keep that "Ready, Fire, Aim" mentality out of my head and not paint the whole thing until I can decide on the right "color" by painting test panels.  Once I start something I'm halfway done before I realize I missed a step (or 2).

Patience Grasshopper.