Painting steam

A can of Rustoleum semi-flat black?  Put it on blocks and run it slowly while spraying the mechanism.  I use spray cans for boilers and tenders, but prefer the airbrush for mechanisms.

if you want to decal it, go for gloss black.

Good morning

What kind of prep do I have to do? Does the locomotive need to be stripped? Need a Primer? Just wash it? With what? Or good to go, just paint it black?

I don't like painting but will do it.

Clem 

Those engineering versions are a premium for some people. How about trading it for a model that is already painted?

when I painted mine all i did was get a rattle can and mask it off and spray it

5 years later still looks Brand new

good evening

I don't have one yet, so I don't know what the locomotive has on it for a finish, if anything? There seems to be a few of the MTH Mohawk's out there still. Bobbie I really want your answer to be the one I want. I really don't like painting so I want to do it once.

Clem

 I just sprayed a plastic shell with Krylon Fusion and 2X Rustoleum. Both sprayed well and don't need primer. They have it mixed in. I tried to scrape it off and I couldn't.

I read some posts that scared me so I primed the second one.

I would recommend priming if your not sure of the compatibility.

 The biggest problem is getting the paint into the tight areas without overspraying the rest. Spraying light coats is better. Don't force it to cover.

 If it fisheyes, there's probably some type of residue so good cleaning first is a must.

 This is the first toy trains I've sprayed so I can only share beginner's problems.

 Gloss paint is good for decaling over followed by matt clear coat to lock the decals.

Clem mine is a Rail King Scale Switch engine 0-8-0 It is custom painted for my wife's Coca Cola Passenger train. to which I also painted a set of Williams Passenger Cars to add to her K-Line Coca Cola Passenger set.

I do believe that now the engines come with some sort of clear coat on the.  I am not sure of the ability to put paint on top of this coating.  I can make a call to see what I can find out for you if you wish.  I have a Buddy who does some custom work on the side and see what he suggests for you.

I have included a Photo of my 0-8-0 for your perusual.

Sorry about the fuzzy last p;icture

Tere are always a bunch of ways to approach this sort of thing.  It is a personality driven process - you kinda have to decide how far you are willing to go.  Do you simply dust it off, or wash in soap and water, or use professional degreaser, or ultrasonic vat, or what?

Once you make the decision to go to extraordinary lengths to prep the surface, you are in airbrush territory, and need to get professional equipment.  I do both, and while a good bead blast is my prep of choice, I never get near my mechanisms with anything more than an airbrush loaded with Floquil flat black.  I do not even clean the oil off the crankpins.

There is a point of diminishing returns.  I found that disassembling mechanisms and spraying frames is best, but it simply isn't worth it to me.  Your mileage may vary.

At risk of over-doing the photo thing, let me see if I can find a krylon- sprayed locomotive for you.  Krylon used to be great, but they have re-invented nozzle, propellant, and paint formula, and now Rustoleum is my spray paint of choice for quick and dirty work.

Whether you prime or not may not be a big deal when using black. The most important aspect is CLEAN. The surface needs to be free of dirt and grease, even oils from your fingers. Black is pretty forgiving and covers well, so I often do not prime. Another thing that helps is to warm the paint slightly. I lay the spray can in the sink and run hot water over it for a few minutes. It really helps the paint spray more smoothly.

I only paint the loco body castings, etc.  Anything that rotates or oscillates, etc., and anything underneath that is mechanical and sensitive, I neolube instead.  

I always use primer: Yes, it's a bit more work.  And maybe you don't need it, but a) maybe you do and you may not find out until way too late, and b) the way I spray it, wet and thick, it smooths out a bit better than the paint (see below) so it makes a good surface, hiding very tiny imperfections, etc.  

The paint itself, I always use Rustoleum rattle cans if I can, which I like to apply in light coats  to keep the sheen as I want it - use three thin coats so that flat looks flat, not satin, and satin looks satin, not semi-gloss, etc. 

Good morning

Thats at least two votes for Rustoleum. I do have an old airbrush.  

 I have an old postwar steamer body I can practice on, I guess the big thing is what kind of coating is on the engineering versions? A call to MTH this afternoon will help me.

 bob2 thats a good looking big boy.

Clem K

quote:

The biggest problem is getting the paint into the tight areas without overspraying the rest.

This is where an air brush comes in handy.
Personally, I would never use a rattle can on a locomotive or rolling stock. With an air brush I can control the amount and where the paint goes magnitudes better than a rattle can.

Never say never - the airbrush does a better job no matter what, but if all you want is a black steam engine there are short cuts.  The original poster has apparently never painted anything.  I doubt that hosing down a clear coated model will bring great grief no matter how it turns out.

There are many ways to enjoy a hobby.  One of them involves a rattle can and a quickie paint job.  Another involves a complete tear-down and baked on enamel over a meticulously prepared stack of parts.

Painting an Engineering/Pilot model is a terrible idea. Why on earth would you want to?

It then becomes just another (well? badly?) painted engine.

I'm actually waiting to buy a Lionel Niagara and/or PRR T1 Duplex -until- they  appear

as Pilot models.

Maybe try trading/selling it, as someone suggested above.

I didn't say there wasn't Bob. Just replied with my own personal preference.