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I normally shoot from the sides so not much paint gets in. What does won't stick as I dab oil in journals before painting. If I forget, as I have done, or the journals did get paint in them I use Microbrushes with a bit of thinner and clean them out.

 

http://www.amazon.com/MICROBRU...BR1003/dp/B0000WSA5U

 

A dab of oil as I reassemble and good to go. There may be better ways but this works well for me.

This was a Gilmaur UP class F-50-4 kit. It came with a laser cut deck as shown. Being one piece of wood it would take a lot of work to make look like individual boards. So I stained a batch of cut boards in ink and alcohol. Once dried I used painters tape to hold them together in a row and placed the laser version on top. This gave me the areas to remove for the stake pockets and other openings.

Once all those were cut I glued the new assembly on to the car using Ambroid glue. I like that better than Walthers or Pliobond as it's not "stringy" out of the tube. Once dried I removed the tape and popped off a few boards and replaced them with fresh stained ones. Then sanding. You could also run some heavy scratches on the planks but this will end up having some type of load so I did not do that.

 

 

deck

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On the older cars the trucks were usually painted car body color, not black.  Black paint dryer very slowly and usually required it be oven baked to get it to harden.  It was not widely used until the introduction of japan dryers and synthetic enamels around 1930.  The black that was used on freight cars, usually the under side and maybe boxcar ends was something called car cement.  It was a mixture of tar, asbestos fibers, and a fast drying solvent like gasoline. It was used to water proof the floors and car ends, but was not usually used on trucks.  I have a copy of the Baldwin electric car truck catalog.  It says trucks will be shipped painted medium olive green unless otherwise specified. 

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