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I have acquired several Atlas O undecorated cars and an RS-1 recently. I'm wondering if there is a favorite type or brand of paint that people like to use or if it even matters. I have an airbrush, but I've seen good results with spray cans too so either way doesn't really matter to me. Just looking for input from the painters out there.

 

Also, what should I use to prep the model before paint? Alcohol?, Mineral Spirits?, ?

 

Thanks 

Last edited by jonnyspeed
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I have painted the older Atlas cars with several types of paint all with good results.  I did find some of the cars still had mold release on them so you need to clean them with a good soap and water bath, rinse them really well and wipe them off with 91% isopropyl alcohol.  I had two plug door boxcars that paint just bounced off of until I did this.  It was one of the strangest things I'd ever seen.

I prep plastic by washing the body with soap and water, air dry.

I then use duplicolor automotive gray primer in a spray can.

For colors I use a combo of Duplicolor, Tamiya and krylon spray cans.

Between the different brands I can match colors pretty well.

To mask off colors I use Tamiya tape for the separation line and regular Surtape masking tape for fill in. 

This system works well for me....has been for years in my plastic model hobby.

Samples

 

 

 

 

CSXDASH3

atsf

csxdash9A

DSCN0518

DSCN3725

DSCN0687

yes...I am 3 railer....but paint is paint!

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Images (6)
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  • atsf
  • csxdash9A
  • DSCN0518
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  • DSCN0687
Last edited by AMCDave
Nice looking stuff, I too have rattle canned several cars, they all come out reat to me, scale 2 railer. ncng
 
Originally Posted by AMCDave:

I prep plastic by washing the body with soap and water, air dry.

I then use duplicolor automotive gray primer in a spray can.

For colors I use a combo of Duplicolor, Tamiya and krylon spray cans.

Between the different brands I can match colors pretty well.

To mask off colors I use Tamiya tape for the separation line and regular Surtape masking tape for fill in. 

This system works well for me....has been for years in my plastic model hobby.

Samples

 

 

 

 

CSXDASH3

atsf

csxdash9A

DSCN0518

DSCN3725

DSCN0687

yes...I am 3 railer....but paint is paint!

 

"I also use Scalecoat II and it is great. It covers good and drys to touch in 30 minutes unless there is high humidity".

 

Honestly, I do not see how that is possible. I have used scale coat 2 numerous times and tried different thinners and different mix ratios. I never have seen Scale coat that drys to the touch in 30 minutes, or even 2 hours. What is your secret? Some say use Scale coat 1 thinner and mix 50/50. I have tried all that and it really makes no difference. The thing I dislike most about Scale coat is the long dry times. It generally takes at least 2 full days before you can do anything else with it.

Rob

Rob,
No secrets. I thin 80/20 with regular paint thinner and spray with a Paashe VL. I've been doing it for 25+ years with SCII and it has always worked for me. It leaves a great glossy finish too.
 
Several months ago I did get a bad bottle of IC orange, the pigment would not stay mixed/suspended. I ordered another bottle and it was from the same lot and it worked great, never figured that one out.
 
Malcolm
 
Originally Posted by oldrob:

"I also use Scalecoat II and it is great. It covers good and drys to touch in 30 minutes unless there is high humidity".

 

Honestly, I do not see how that is possible. I have used scale coat 2 numerous times and tried different thinners and different mix ratios. I never have seen Scale coat that drys to the touch in 30 minutes, or even 2 hours. What is your secret? Some say use Scale coat 1 thinner and mix 50/50. I have tried all that and it really makes no difference. The thing I dislike most about Scale coat is the long dry times. It generally takes at least 2 full days before you can do anything else with it.

Rob

 

To each his own, but i've been using Scalecoat II with Scalecoat II thinner for over 15 years (thinned with between 20% and 30 % thinner). In the past i used a Badger single action airbrush, but for the last decade have been using either a Preval sprayer for small projects, and Scalecoat II in rattle cans for big (multiple pieces of rolling stock) projects.

I have found it flows so well that small nicks can be touched up with a fine brush.

But to each his own.

One thing i did learn from the good painters in the auto restoration shops i managed was that paint problems were generally NOT the result of bad paint (altho that was an easy place to put the blame), but the result of improper application (not compensating for humidity, wrong kind/amount of thinner or reducer, wrong temperature, etc).

Again to each his own.

 

jackson

Last edited by modeltrainsparts
Originally Posted by Hudson J1e:
Mike and AMCDave: Awesome work!

Mike, when you did those Atlas switchers did you start from undec units or was it units repainted for a different road? If a different road did you just sand down the finish or strip it completely? Thanks in advance.

All were from un-decorated Atlas offeringsAtlas offers un-decorated models but they have to be pre-ordered just like everything else.  To get things right, I had to order additional MU handrails and pilots for the Montour units.  I also ordered the cab window shades, note the Montour units.




Last edited by Mike CT
Originally Posted by sinclair:
 Nice American.  What did it start life as (Catalog number please.)?

Thanks....it started as a Lionel Christmas General from a few years back.....bought on blow out for $79!

I did alter the cab as I HATE that bay window thing on the front of the cab....and thus I had to add some boiler in front of the cab. I also altered the tender removing the 'wood' load, added a new deck and water hatch then a real wood load. Custom paint and decals I made......and we get a Toy Story II loco!

Last edited by AMCDave

oldrob,

 

I have used Scalecoat II for so many years and NOT had drying problems. My wife won't let me spray in the house so I do it in the garage. The onle weather you can count on in northwest Iowa is it will be hot or cold and the humidity will be through the roof. I just use cheap paint thinner.

 

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