I realize this could belong in the scenery forum, but I hang out on this forum and there was a lot of discussion a few days ago about making "building backdrops." Others, and I, pointed out that getting a backdrop and then making thin building fronts to attach was the way to go.
I'm in the process of making eight such fronts, for a total cost for all eight of maybe $5. I try to add a bit of 3D to make them look better - so they don't look like printed paper. For those with interest, here is how I made several this afternoon.
Maybe some people willfind this too basic, but . . .
Materials used are:
1) 3 mm foamboard
2) Two color printer copies of a picture of the building - see below
3) X-Acto knife with #11 blade
4) metal ruler
5) rubber cement
6) brush to apply it
7) some cheap beads
8) paper clips
9 old magazines
Step 1: I go to Google Images and search for “Brick Building Fronts” or “Wooden Building Fronts” or whatever I am looking for . . . even “building Fronts for O gauge railroading” gets you about a thousand hits, several dozen of which you can use, and some sites made to help model railroaders do this. I copy and paste the jpeg file into Powerpoint, vary its size until I like it, and then print out two color copies.
Step 2: (left, below) I cut out a chunk of foamboard and trim one of the photos, both with a good margin around the photo size -- about ¼ to ½ inch beyond its edge. I use rubber cement to attach the picture to the foamboard. (I prefer the traditional rubber cement - which has a solvent that can make you high if you don’t use it in a ventilated room - and not the new gel type that is super-safe but doesn’t work as well. A note: if you get any rubber cement on your fingers, get it all off before continuing. Seriously, it doesn't go well unless you do .. .
Step 3: (right below) Using the ruler and the X-Acto, I trim the outside edge of the building flush.
Step 4: (below) Cut out the windows and doors. I’ve done so many I don’t use a metal ruler as a guide any more, but if you have not done a lot of these, use a metal ruler as a guide. Take time. I good trick is to cut it gently and several times in gradually deeper cuts from the front, then when you have peirced all the way through, turn it over and cut from the other side to widen the cut from behind. Use care, too – these knife blades have a way of ending up in your fingertips. Ouch!
Step 5: (left side below) I take the second printed copy of the building and trim it about 3/16 inch short of each side (leaving room for tape on it to lap over it and attach to the foamboard, too). I tape it to the back of the foamboard so its windows and doors, etc., are positioned properly.
At this point, I am done with the basic building front - it has enough 3D in windows and doors to not look like a simple printed picture. I could use it like that if I wanted, but . . . .
Step 6: Below, I looked through an old magazine (upper right in photo) until I found an ad with a big blank section of a color (maroon in this case) that I thought would make a good awning color. I cut it out and trimmed it as shown to the lower right.
Step 7: I fold and tape the awning in place as shown.
Step 8: (top, below) I use some inexpensive gold beads (Mardi Gra, I think) and two paper clips. (bottom left) I bend and cut the clips, cut two beads off and drill a hole in each and attach one to each clip section. (bottom right) I dip the lower part of each in white paint to simulate a light globe.
Step 9: Done!!!!! total of 9/16 inch depth
