Pledge for Cleaning Track?

If it works for you, fine, but I learned the hard way not to use any cleaners other than track cleaning fluid and alcohol for cleaning track. If and when I put stuff away, I just clean it and put it in a box.  

 

One thing I do on occasion when storing stuff that might rust: I save the hard little pellets from some of the material from the packets of desiccant that come in my model trains and keep it in a small metal screen envelope (its metal but can breath).  I heat this in an oven to about 250 degrees for four hours which drives any moisture out of it and "reactivates it" if it is tired, then throw it in the storage box.   

Never used it on track but for my road bikes it is great.  Not very harsh, and protects against future road grime.  Certainly worth a try.

Sounds like a great solution. It is a lot easier to run cleaning rag over the rail tops on set up than attempting to eliminate rust!!

Kinda gives a new meaning to "polishing the rails"!  Thanks for sharing!

 

Stack

Does it keep a lemon fresh scent?

I just use Wahl Clipper Oil or a kerosene based oil.

 

I do use Pledge on the airplanes and ancient Mustang Convertibles, and have done so since about 1974.  I have not actually used soap and water since.  It takes less than an hour to wipe down a Cub, and last painted in 1981 I can still see my reflection in the finish.

 

The Greek won't let me use it on her BMW.  I do it when she is not looking.

 

but I promise - next operating session I will try Pledge on the track and see if it causes any arcing.

I think after Lee's experience, I'd be real careful about what you use on your track!

 

To preserve track that is going to be stored in less than favorable conditions, I always coat it with WD-40.  Have never had a problems, even after prolonged periods of several years or more.

Pledge ingredients look to be much more innocent than the infamous SG - mostly oils/petroleum products, but water-based. But, so are some commercial track cleaners such as Life-Like, etc. 

 

Info sheet on Pledge

 

Jim

 

 

 

I was taught just a block of wood in each tool drawer would almost eliminate rusting.

A wooden case for storage wouldn't be a bad idea if you can find one.

Pledge is a better choice than ammonia based window cleaner for clear plexiglass and most other plastics too. But like anything else, it will lift some paints. 

I use pledge on plastics and on metal it seals so oxidation is reduced

Water based doesn't sound like a good idea...

I prefer Old English to Pledge when it comes to cleaning track. The scratch cover does a wonderful job of giving it a "weathered " look.

I noticed airplanes mentioned.  I first learned the joys of Pledge by using it on my instructors airplane windshield when I was taking lessons for my pilot's license.  It works well on plexiglass even seemed to help fill scratches and even got all the bugs off!   

For storage, consider Tri Flow.  It is very expensive, but lasts about ten times longer than WD-40.

 

Are you guys saying that Pledge is water- based?

What Lee said!

Never had an issue with Wahl clipper oil.....

...What Lee said...desiccant just works and has for years and can be recharged.

You can get it for a reasonable price in quantity. Flower drying desiccant. Also, here's a way to make a pouch that one person used for "time capsules" or as they are now called, a "geocache" "Make your own desiccant"

 

Another source for perhaps free(maybe a pizza or case of beer) is a Japanese powersports shop. The motorcycles, atv's and equipment arrive at the dealer in a box or crate that has a large bag of desiccant to protect the equipment during the transport via ship. It gets thrown away by the staff that unpack the equipment.

 

I, like Lee, grab those little packets from products whenever I can. One or two small packets can absorb quite a bit of moisture in a box or closed container. No rust on my weapons for over 35 years.

Guys, I guess I will forever be the poster-child for not using any household cleaner on track.  So again: why use anything but approved cleaners or alcohol (known to be safe and effective) to clean track?   Buy good track - Fastrack is stainless and won't ruts (unless you clean it with Simple Green), Atlas is either stainless (I have some of the old stuff) or nickel silver, and all the other good options are similar: it's not going to rust.  I recommend just keeping it clean and dry and that's it.  

 

And remember where I learned about the wonderful cleaning powers of Simple Green: on this forum.  Not everything you read here is free of hidden consequences!

I pledge allegiance to my track, and to keep it clean for always.

And to the accessories, for which their are many.

In the basement, in towns all over the country.

 

 

Oh...wait...never mind.. you meant Pledge, the dusting product

 

 

 

Lee, since I've seen rusted Fastrack, it's not stainless.  Also, a magnet attaches very firmly, another clue.  One more reason to avoid water based cleaners like the plague.

 

I think it has some sort of coating.  Mine never rusted (five years) in normal use, until Simple Green removed whatever plating it had.  I understood it had a type of stainless coating over mild steel.

 

Regardless, you would want to avoid water-based anything: capillary action would draw water inside the end juntions/connection to the inside which will rust (a couple of my Fastrack sections damanged by Simple Green  rusted/corroded/whatever-they-did from the inside out near the junctions.

I'm with Allan.  I'd use WD-40 before I would use Pledge.  WD-40 does a good job of repelling moisture and it would probably do a good job cleaning off all the build up on the track.  Lots of good uses for the stuff.  I should take the time to coat all my FasTrack that I have in the garage.   

 

Larry

I used SG for a long time on my Fastrack and never had problems. I stopped using it after Lee's reports. Im not sure why we had different experiencs but with the plastic road bed on the Fastrack I guess alcohol is probably the safest route to go.  I am fortune to llive in a climate with low to moderate humidity.

Hi Lee,
Do not feel bad. I think what happened to your Fastrack is because you either cleaned it to well or left residue on the track.
Either way, this from the SG website explains it better

And I doubt that Lionel actually uses the expensive non magnetic highly corrosion resistant 316 stainless alloy. Most likely 304 and it will corrode and is mildly magnetic

Rust Problems – How can I still use Simple Green® to clean but also address rusting or metals corrosion?
Whether an aqueous-based product, chlorinated solvent, caustic or citrus/d´limonene type cleaner is used, the cleaned metal will begin to oxidize or rust. Many factors, including time, temperature, humidity and type of metal influence the rate of oxidation. Simple Green is an aqueous-based cleaner. When bare metal is cleaned and degreased, all barrier coatings (i.e. oil, grease, lubricants, cutting oils, etc.) are removed. If a rust inhibitor or protectant spray is required, please call 800-228-0709 for more information. A word of caution: when adding foreign materials into Simple Green, be aware that toxicity, biodegradability and sewer ability issues need to be addressed by the additive manufacturer.
Rust Problems – Is Simple Green® recommended for removing rust? What if I have a rust problem?
Rust is an alkaline soil created by the corrosion and oxidation of iron in metals. Simple Green is an alkaline aqueous-based cleaner and, as such, is not the best choice for removing rust. Alkaline soils typically require acidic solutions to effective remove them. A good choice to try is Simple Green® Lime Scale Remover. On certain surfaces, with the correct contact time, rust can be removed by this product. For more details, please contact the Technical Department at (800) 228-0709.

I am starting to think that some type of residual protection film on cleaned track is a good idea.

Just need to find one that is a good conductor, does not attack traction tires, is reasonable safe, and cost effective.  Any chemical engineers on the forum?

At this point I don't much care what others use to preserve (as opposed to clean) their track.  What I use has served me well for more years than many here have been in the hobby, so I'll stick with the tried-and-true.

That would be the reason why the Wahl's Clipper Oil (or similar light oil) works so well. Using it on the center rail only usually does the job and avoids traction tire issues.

 

As Allan said, stick with what works for you whether it's for cleaning or preservation.

 

For me, it's a few swipes of an LGB cleaning block every few weeks, followed by a drop or two of clipper oil in a few spots here and there around the layout on the center rail only. Then, run a train to distribute the oil around the layout. 

 

Jim

Heh.  I thought this was some kind of pledge, like "I hereby pledge to clean my track..." 

 

Pete

 

 

Withthem exception of polycarbonate and some polystyrenes, it looks like Wd-40 is safe for just about everything. It does remove adhesives so I will be cautious about getting it on my ballast.

And does just about everything that I would want it to do.
Lubricates, displaces moisture, and cleans.

I am not sure why someone would recommend only applying oil to the middle rail.
The ground is just as important as the source.

Maybe isopropryl alcohol and then a wipe with  the Wd-40

I am still using WD-40.  The light oil really lifts the dirt.  I spray it on paper towels, and clean the rails with the paper towel.   A thin residual film seems to help protect the rails.   I am using it on both Fastrack and Atlas-O for years with no problems, good success.   Ken

Hey everyone - use what you want: it's your track.

 

As to Simple Green: No, I did not leave a residue nor overuse it.  I am aware of the Simple Green website instructions, etc.  Discussion here after my track was ruiedn established beyond any doubt I have that it could and would slowly eat the plating away.  But again - its your track, so use what you want.  As forme, I've got all Atlas track now, which I clean with Brightboys, alcohol, and nothing else.  so far, no problems.

 

And I still use Simple Green - does great job of cleaning the garage floor.

 

That is all I need to make things work the way I want. As I said, it avoids potential traction tire issues and/or traction problems.

 

The center rail contact is more critical in that it depends on only a few contact points (rollers) with only spring pressure maintaining contact. Ground contact is usually more reliable with the entire weight of the engine helping to maintain contact and more points of contact (wheels on either outside rail).

 

My philosophy has always been to avoid over-thinking of "problems" in this hobby and to avoid overkill in solving them. That approach has kept it fun for me for the last 60+ years.  

 

Jim

I never thought of that approach so maybe I'm under thinking.
I am of the opinion that clean connections are more important for electrical conductivity than contact pressure.  You can type in a corroded battery terminal all you want is not going to help. Clean it properly  and you can loosely place it on the terminal post.

Hi Lee,
I was not implying that you did anything wrong.
I just never fully understood what happened. It seems unlikely that the topical application removed/ etched all of the plating evenly.
If it happened over time, I would think that spots of corrosion would of appeared long before all the plating was gone.
I also know of people leave Tubular track outside to rust.
Then use a Scotch-Brite and light oil to clean the top and have no problems with conductivity.

I have also scrubbed rusty track to bare metal and have used it successfully with no rapid corrosion. In some of my rail tops are just naturally deplated from running trains.

I tried to burn up a very slow Aurora slot car, that would not respond to any amount of tuning, by spraying Lemon Pledge into the pancake motor and then running it at full speed across the transformer terminals. 

Well knock me down and call me Lee, that thing started getting faster and faster and faster until it was the fastest thing on the track.

Lemon Pledge instantly became my secret tune up weapon!

Just my experience. 

Now that was my youth. I used lighter fluid and those things flew.

I use toothpaste

I use one of these to clean my track.