Portable Power for Testing Accessories, etc.

Some accessories require AC, so you'd really want to consider a DC-AC inverter to power them.

Most train shows I attend have a testing booth with trackage and leads to test locomotives and accessories of all scales. It is usually just a matter of friendly communicating with the vendor that you are commiting to a sale if it works to your reasonable satisfaction.

I'm looking for something I can take to an individual seller's home where they frequently claim to have no way to test the trains.  I don't want to have to bring my own transformer and ask for somewhere to plug it in.

No offense, but is this really necessary?  They have electricity, surely if they want to sell them, they can provide a plug!  I think this is the answer to a question that really doesn't need to be asked.  Bring a transformer and an extension cord.  If that doesn't allow the testing, I'd just hop in my conveyance and move on!

I doubt a 9 volt, even in parallel, could provide enough power to be able to handle what you want, it might work with something like a gateman let's say, but likely wouldn't work for other things. A lithium 12 v battery with a dc-ac inverter (note, if  you are planning to power directly from this, make sure it isn't a 12v to 110 v AC inverter, you would want something that inverts the 12v DC into something like 12v ac or less for things requiring AC) should work, and would be a lot lighter than using something like a 12v lantern battery or small battery used to start small equipment. 

NNJ Railfan posted:

I'm looking for something I can take to an individual seller's home where they frequently claim to have no way to test the trains.  I don't want to have to bring my own transformer and ask for somewhere to plug it in.

The inability to test or verify performance is in your favor when negotiating the price and sale. If they refuse to let you plug in a transformer you brawn and cry things out even more so. Are as gun runner John said just pass.

Thanks for the advice, everyone.

I would suggest a portable AC jump pack that are often used for cars, etc.  It has an inverter for 120VAC to attach a small transformer to, and has 12VDC which should give an indication of whether something works or not...

I've used a Sears unit for lots of things (and yes, trains!)

Compressor included to blow the dust off the old stuff!   And, they throw in a few USB charging ports too!

Kind of expensive solution to a problem that I'm having a hard time with the idea that it even exists.

I have recommended them to friends with CPAP machines,  They use 'em in a power failure.

Great jump starter, good for blowing up a tire with low pressure, or a basketball.

Let's me run my portable O gauge layout out the back of my van when I'm not hooked up to AC.

It's priceless! (and solves the OP's problem!)  

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Kind of expensive solution to a problem that I'm having a hard time with the idea that it even exists.

Hey John, Folks do still go camping and work deep into the woods etc. etc.

As I read that product description, I began drooling 😂 

  9v will usually turn the wheels, if held the loco is held upside down. Not enough power for running (except some small starter set can motor jobs or maybe a MOW critter, trolley, etc.)

The old vibration motors need AC, and tenders/whistles are going to blow as you test if you use DC, but nothing should be harmed with DC ever. (unless you unleash unfused 50a off a car battery or something dumb)

I have used scrap wire and my car batt. or cigar lighter plug to test. And run post war (sans-whistles) off car batteries at car shows a few times. (12v auto batt. & a good load behind a juice hog loco works out well, I didn't need a throttle, though I made one eventually )

Best imo are 6v lantern batteries, or the cases for running C-D batt.s  in place of one 6v batt..

  These have enough power to run the a few for bit.  I usually had two in each car anyhow, and took a third along if I was looking to test pre-war or Marx. 

I also grab a 1033 if there is a plug. ( I ask only if they are friendly.) I don't use smaller because they may not run a big loco well and the loco may underperform. (even the 1033 is boarderline for good running of some locos; too low in volts(15v) and/or amps(4-5a).

I'd rather test and pay the real value than take a gamble on a dead train, unless it is dirt cheap anyhow    I'm not going to scam ANYONE to save a buck... and you don't get too much poorer than I am anymore. I offer what I'm willing or able; take it or leave it, that's all, no offense meant, and no expectations either.  Like that famous "movie Brian", "I don't want to haggle"  (but sometimes will a little if I think it's too high 😒).

I can think of three things offhand I could do to make a good loco seem sick to scam most folk. (But I'd have to kill you if I told ya, and I'd be smiling through smoke if you had actually used them )    I really don't even like to be around folk that play games that, cause I might be the next mark 😮

TMCC and Legacy do NOT like DC on the rails, and the motors won't turn at all as they depend on the AC.

From every Legacy manual I've looked at, right in front!

Then I grabbed a TMCC manual, in this case it happened to be for the Veranda.

See a common thread?  Don't power these with DC!