I have been buying and looking at not only post-war but re-issues of the Vulcan type switchers, like the Navy #51 or Army #41. Some of the motors have closed brush holders, while most seem to have open brush holders. Was there a design change at some point ? What, is any, are some issues, pro or con with each type of holder ?
An example of each
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The closed tubes are earlier production essentially held over from the prewar era. They use different brushes (1661E-29) and brush springs (WS-147) than later production (622-121 & 622-191) but are generally interchangeable within the same type of engine. There is no significant difference in performance, but the closed tubes are slightly harder to service since the brushplate must be removed. The closed tubes are also used on whistles, motorized units like the gang car and some steam engines.
Thanks, makes sense.
Uber, nailed it 100%, with early versus later production. The same situation arises with the Turbines 671/681/2020, made after 1946. The brush plates are actually interchangeable, with no ill effects.
I have seen many of these little switchers with cracked or worse window mullions. I have a remedy, which I am sure others have already thought of. Take some 1/8" plexiglass and glue it to the inside face of the cab sides. Not only will it enhances the appearance of these little gems but will help prevent the mullions from cracking.
I have noticed that the re-issues have a heavier mullion. However, here too, giving these some "Glass" will enhance their appearance. It's a very simple task to do.
I have also added an LED headlight. I just noticed a bit of glue ooze.....LOL
The last picture is one I borrowed from Ebay, showing the thickened mullion.
Reproduction / replacement window struts are available.
They look fairly good.
If you are looking to buy one of these switchers, examine the windows carefully.
Nothing wrong with having a loco with replacement struts, but you don't want to pay the premium price a loco with undamaged struts would demand.
Making repairs on these is not a problem. In fact, I plan on buying more of them and making my own cabs. I like the look of box cab diesels and electrics. These little locos are a good foundation for such kit-bashes.
The open windows served a purpose to ventilate the heat of motor. The window struts were reinforced beginning with the commando assault Vulcan in 1983. That engine can be found with both thin and thick struts.
Chuck Sartor posted:The open windows served a purpose to ventilate the heat of motor. .
No doubt that was Lionel's intent. But I put "glass" in the side windows of my PW #41 and #53 way back in the Seventies, and motor overheating hasn't been a problem for me.
Dan, Nice tip about putting ‘glass’, inside for support, and just to add a little to that. Looking for a “glass” supply??, think of old DVD/ CD ROM Cases. Going to toss out an old CD or DVD, you take the front clear cover off, and keep it as your Glass supply.
C W Burfle posted:Reproduction / replacement window struts are available.
They look fairly good.
If you are looking to buy one of these switchers, examine the windows carefully.
Nothing wrong with having a loco with replacement struts, but you don't want to pay the premium price a loco with undamaged struts would demand.
Who has these? I checked the train tender and nothing on there. I need one for my Navy yard switcher!!
The replacement struts are made by JLM trains.
He sells direct. I thought he sold wholesale to other parts dealers.
Regardless, here is a link: JLM Trains.
Look under "new items"
Chuck Sartor posted:The open windows served a purpose to ventilate the heat of motor. The window struts were reinforced beginning with the commando assault Vulcan in 1983. That engine can be found with both thin and thick struts.
I only put the glass on the side windows. The front and back windows are wide open. I'm sure that's plenty of ventilation.
Dan,
Where did you get the LED for the headlight?
What is the part number?
Do you wire it directly to power from a pick up roller and ground?
I installed grain o' wheat headlight bulbs in my #57 Rio Grande back in the 70's and the original bulbs are still burning. No problem with melting of the plastic. I also wired the bulbs to the brush holders so that the headlights would burn bright in the direction of travel and dim at the other end. I also removed the plow and put a coupler on the front end. This thing runs super slow!
Jeff2035 posted:Dan,
Where did you get the LED for the headlight?
What is the part number?
Do you wire it directly to power from a pick up roller and ground?
I buy pre-wired LEDs from sellers on Ebay. Here's a link.
John23 posted:I installed grain o' wheat headlight bulbs in my #57 Rio Grande back in the 70's and the original bulbs are still burning. No problem with melting of the plastic. I also wired the bulbs to the brush holders so that the headlights would burn bright in the direction of travel and dim at the other end. I also removed the plow and put a coupler on the front end. This thing runs super slow!
I used to use Grain of Wheat bulbs all the time. When I got into Large scale I discovered LEDs. Now that I am back into "O" gauge, I am still experimenting with the pre-wired LEDs I mentioned in my last post above. However, the LEDs I use are rated for 12 Volts. So right now it's still up in the air how they will do with our higher voltage AC transformers.
These little switchers run with slightly lower voltage. So maybe the 12 Volts LEDs will not burn out. When I first wired the LED into the switcher's circuit, it lit brighter one way and slightly dimmer the other. Then I changed one of the wires to the solder lug on the E-Unit. Now it lights in forward only. The second wire I soldered to one of the brush holders.
Dan Padova posted:John23 posted:I installed grain o' wheat headlight bulbs in my #57 Rio Grande back in the 70's and the original bulbs are still burning. No problem with melting of the plastic. I also wired the bulbs to the brush holders so that the headlights would burn bright in the direction of travel and dim at the other end. I also removed the plow and put a coupler on the front end. This thing runs super slow!
I used to use Grain of Wheat bulbs all the time. When I got into Large scale I discovered LEDs. Now that I am back into "O" gauge, I am still experimenting with the pre-wired LEDs I mentioned in my last post above. However, the LEDs I use are rated for 12 Volts. So right now it's still up in the air how they will do with our higher voltage AC transformers.
These little switchers run with slightly lower voltage. So maybe the 12 Volts LEDs will not burn out. When I first wired the LED into the switcher's circuit, it lit brighter one way and slightly dimmer the other. Then I changed one of the wires to the solder lug on the E-Unit. Now it lights in forward only. The second wire I soldered to one of the brush holders.
Evan Designs makes prewired LEDs with capacitor and resistor included. They are rated for 19 volts. I've been using them in conventional Lionel locomotives for years, with no problems:
https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/bl-212.html
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