Problem with new Lionel H-10

There's a post about an electocoupler wiring issue as well as other potential problems on this thread: 

https://ogrforum.com/...led-with-power-tools

 Regardless , stop running it and get in touch with Lionel on Monday for warranty repair.

STOP USING THE COUPLER!  Here's what I found when I opened up the tender on mine, this was just one of the problems!  Needless to say, it got a new coupler!  Apparently, the primary tool for some of these units was a hammer.

Or you could use it, burn yourself again and then sue...a la McDonalds and the infamous "coffee" lawsuit...and I'm only half kidding. Thank goodness a child hasn't experienced (yet) what you did.

Mark in Oregon 

Yeah I’ve got a fix, quit buying Lionel products until they fix their quality control problems! Nothing like getting Christmas time deliveries only to find yourself frustrated by yet another NOT ready to run product out of the box!  Lol.

All kidding aside, I do like Lionel products but this seems to be a never ending problem.

Can’t wait to play with this engine you got, just make sure you go through the trouble of fixing it before I use it, don’t want to burn myself.... I can do that with a McDonald’s coffee. Lol. 

Just checked my H10 Western Allegheny - coupler works OK; there just has to be more than one factory producing the same product - some units OK - some not.

I thought the same thing after my sons played with it. I burned the crap out of my hand. I was actually shocked to open the box and find no loose parts and a locomotive that seemed to work without issue. Then it started smoking and I thought, “oh, there it is”. Sad when you’re actually shocked to get something from Lionel that doesn’t have to be opened up and repaired or sent back right out of the box. It’s been a few years since I ordered from Lionel - I imagine it will be a few more until I order from them again. 

Wow. I am glad your are alright.  It appears that some H-10 engines have more than minor issues. Your coupler is a major event. Don't use the engine until Lionel can repair it.  It looks like the wiring may have been pulled from the coupler creating a major short. 

I will go check my couplers again on my three H-10 engines. I was fortunate that all are operating fine.  The Pennsylvania #1288 just arrived this afternoon. The Pennsylvania Lines #1709 and Western Allegheny have been running for two weeks.

Thank you for the post and warning about the coupler.

Sincerely, John Rowlen

I would guess there is only one factory.  Even if they attempted to produce all bad units there will be some good ones slip through the cracks.  

The question is what percentage are good vs defective.  Honda and Toyota would not tolerate this.

Interesting.  I have the Bellefonte version and haven’t yet fired the coupler.  Any way to test for this without potentially burning/shocking my son? 

John Rowlen posted:

The Pennsylvania #1288 just arrived this afternoon. The Pennsylvania Lines #1709 and Western Allegheny have been running for two weeks.

Thank you for the post and warning about the coupler.

Look it over closely, that's the one I have.

I have seen those wires running out of electro-couplers on steam engines.  At what point do they become a potential short?  

Is the uncoupling button activated by single push.  I would imagine that anyone holding down the uncouple button could overheat and burn out a coupler. The electromagnet would get really hot?  Yes?  No?

Sincerely, John Rowlen

These H-10s are weird...seems like all the tender problems come in engines with smaller Atlantic-type tenders. The H-10s with the CC2-type tenders seem to be far less problematic.

IF you hold down the Legacy remote Uncoupling Button, you are giving power to the coupler.

Sometimes new couplers are "sticky" and don't open. Put a drop of light oil (#107) on the pin and hinge.  DO NOT HOLD DOWN ON THE BUTTON,  Putting continued power to the electromagnet will cause it to heat up.

You are opening the coupler with a quick push.  "You are not making toast in a toaster."

Sincerely, John Rowlen

John Rowlen posted:

I have seen those wires running out of electro-couplers on steam engines.  At what point do they become a potential short?  

Is the uncoupling button activated by single push.  I would imagine that anyone holding down the uncouple button could overheat and burn out a coupler. The electromagnet would get really hot?  Yes?  No?

Sincerely, John Rowlen

You should only see the black insulated wires coming out of the insulation around the coil.  If you see the magnet wire and bare joints, someone yanked that from under the wrapping on the coil.

I have the Bellefonte Central version and the coupler seems to be working fine, not causing fires etc

However, the class lights on the front are acting up.  They go from dim to bright, and a occasionally some Morse code looking stuff in between.  Has anyone seen this?  Is that supposed to happen?

Otherwise, it is a fun engine.  Whistle is neat, swinging bell of course very cool.  

Ben 

Needless to say, the class lights should not be flickering and blinking.

You may have to take off the shell to see what is going on with the wiring; I think that has been done on another thread; there one person found wiring too close to the motor.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Needless to say, the class lights should not be flickering and blinking.

John:

Is there any reason they would be dimmable?  Rule 17 or whatever?  I was trying to figure out if it was user error.  If not, is there any way to troubleshoot this other than to call Lionel?

Thanks,

Ben 

The class lights don't dim for Rule-17!

There's a way to troubleshoot it, but it involves screws and disassembly.   I think it's pretty clear that something is amiss under there.

Found the thread where the cover has been taken off:

https://ogrforum.com/...h-power-tools?page=4

Daniel J. Gonzalez is your man - brave.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

The class lights don't dim for Rule-17!

There's a way to troubleshoot it, but it involves screws and disassembly.   I think it's pretty clear that something is amiss under there.

My problem is... if I take it apart I won’t have any idea where the problem is, let alone how to fix it!

I suggest that Lionel is the only recourse since it's still under warranty.

Is there a “cab light” on this engine?  I assumed not because it is so small.  Just making sure. 

banelson posted:

Is there a “cab light” on this engine?  I assumed not because it is so small.  Just making sure. 

Yes, there is a cab light, but it turns off when the engine starts moving.

There is a cab light on this engine.  It has the following lighting sequence when running it with the CAB2 remote and Rule 17 is set to automatic: When the engine is moving, the headlight goes to bright mode, the front green marker lights stay on bright, the cab light goes out; when the engine is stopped, the headlight dims, the front green marker lights stay on bright, the cab light goes on.  If there is a problem with the smoke units, etc., the cab light will blink a certain sequence; you can look in the back of the owners manual to get the meaning of the blinks.