Problem with remote command switch

First off, does it work if you use the wired remote switch?  I suspect the answer will be no.  My guess is an issue with the limit switch, I've had a couple of those that I had to tweak to get the switch working properly.

I never tried using the wired remotes as I removed them in anticipation of using the Legacy remote.  I've got enough wires imbedded in the bottom of the 4" thick foam board to operate track (4 blocks), operating accessories, and town lights.

Can you elaborate a bit on the "tweeking" process?

If you remove the bottom plate, you can observe the action and check the limit switches.  Here's a picture I posted some time ago in this thread: Fastrack Remote Switch Problem

Make sure at the ends of the travel of the pie-shaped gear that the limit switch is engaged.

You were right - the switch malfunctions with the wired remote.  I will do my best to observe the operation with the back plate removed per your instructions and photo.  Will respond in a day or two re results.  The switch is under warranty but will need  the receipt to make a claim.  Finding it will take an act of Congress��

It is quite possible that it's a simple fix.  I know that I had to build up the nub on one of the switches with JB-Weld to make it properly activate, after that it worked fine.

Just finished messing with this for about an hour with no results.  The pie shaped gear on mine is at the top which is the straight thru position.  I believe your picture has it in the other position.  Using lighted magnifying glasses I could not detect any difference in the space between the gear and the limit switches.  I did loosen the screw on the top limit switch and slightly moved it, but that did not result in any change.  I even used a small screwdriver blade to press the switch tab further in while operating the remote, also with no change.  Interestingly, the remote operated the switch in both directions a couple of times not consecutively, but that was it.  I checked all wiring to ensure there were no disconnections.

Is this switch DOA?  With the difficulty packing it to ship it to Lionel, plus trying to find the original sales receipt, I might as well bite the bullet and order another switch.

I'd check the switch with an ohmmeter to see if the actual switch is defective.

Do you mean check the continuity of the apparent non- functioning limit switch, or of the switch track?  I ran an engine thru the switch in all directions with no problem.  If you mean the limit switch, do the three wires simply unplug by pulling them out?  If so I can check the continuity         back to where they are soldered.  Sorry for all the questions, but I never was able to finish "electronics for dummies" book��.  I do have a digital multimeter and understand basic electricity tests.

I mean to check the continuity through the contacts with the ohmmeter.  You should be able to do this without disconnecting the switch, but obviously with no power on the switch.  Manually activate the switch with the pie shaped gear and see that it closes, then repeat it on the other end.

I was not able to get that thing to work.  So, ordered a new one on Thursday morning; got it Friday afternoon.  It works, at least for now.  As if that was not enough issue to handle, one of my other ones quit working a few hours after putting the order to replace the first one that failed.  However, the problem with this one is the light does not flash when the programming button is depressed.  Thus, not able to program.  Had I known in time, I would have ordered two.  This has been my first experience using Fastrack products and I am yet to be impressed.   Putting Fastrack together and taking it apart is hard on my hands.  Seems I should use gloves to handle the job.   I changed from Gargraves  track and Ross Custom switches because some of my tinplate engines would derail on the switches. 

Thanks for your posts.  The way things are going I am certain I'll be back.

Bummer, the failure is somewhat odd.  The programming issue may be the switch, that pushbutton is really a cheap little thing, I've had them fail.

Just received another switch.  That one also has a defective program button.  The unit does work with the wired remote, but that is not what I bought it for.  Cannot believe I have 3 defective switches out of 6.  I will send this back to the dealer.  I wonder if there are as many problems with other radius switches?  These are O31.

Well, the dealer does not accept returns saying "he sells only new products so I need to deal directly with Lionel re warranty issues".  What a bummer since Lionel's warranty does not include shipping costs on this item (Vision Line is an exception -  a two yr postage paid warranty).  I paid for this with PayPal, thus I could file the problem with them.  But, I hesitate to do that because the seller is excellent in fast shipping , low prices, and good communications.  I paid $85.00 with free shipping.  The cheapest I could find elsewhere was averaging $115.00 incl shipping.  And I may have an opportunity to visit the store someday when I am in the area.  Bottom line: I will bite the bullet and deal with Lionel, meaning I won't likely have a replacement in time to use on my Christmas layout.