Problems with Atlas O Turntable.

I found with mine what you are usinf to power it makes a diffrence.  I was using a Lionel Powermax transformer with the supplied inverter.  With this set up I had lots of belt derailments.  I recently changed over to a Tyco dc powerpack and as long as I stay below half throttle I have had no belt deraiments with no other changes.

 

Jon

Cna you take a pic of that belt set up? I've got an old lionel log loader/unloader that needs a remotor and found a DC gear drive motor for it as a replacement...maybe find something better for your set up? The store near here is american science and surplus and they have all sorts of stuff...they used to have small chain drives and cogs but I haven't seen them in a while...they get what they get when they get it...

Hi

 

I gave up with mine and converted to direct drive, here is the link

 

http://www.jcstudiosinc.com/BlogShowThread?id=734&categoryId=

 

hope this helps

Gromet

I changed over to a  dc power pack and as long as I stay below half throttle I have had no belt derailments with no other changes. As Jon previously posted this is the same way I did it and have no problems. Speed seems to cause the biggest problem.

Larry

I have one of the first run and it came with an optional hand crank (a disc with a short spike sticking up on the outer edge). The motor housing comes off and the crank snaps in place. If it's still included, try it.

I had an interesting email discussion with the folks at Atlas regarding mine. The belt provided is the wrong profile. And my little man in the shack was not glued in properly. Minor issues but the response from the president and tech support was the most unprofessional I have ever experienced in my business or personal life. Real arrogant and ignorant in my opinion. Maybe they are just defensive because of so many complaints from others. Not quite a POS and easily modified but their position is that because they are so less expensive than the others available that I should be happy. I did buy the Roundhouse NOS from a forum member at a reasonable discount. But I will never buy an Atlas product at retail because customer support and warranty is the real POS. if I am going to fix myself, I might as well buy discounted. Some LHS do not deserve to be supported until they learn the meaning of Customer Support Fred

I have run mine at 18v for 30 minutes nonstop without belt coming off with minimal modification to belt. Not that I recommend that nor is it prototypical. But a minor change in the belt spec and it would pretty decent out of the box. Maybe the guys at Atlas do not know how to communicate with their Chinese manufacturer. They clearly are not engineers themselves. Fmh

>>I gave up with mine and converted to direct drive, here is the link 

http://www.jcstudiosinc.com/BlogShowThread?id=734&categoryId=<<

 

I like your upgrade. impressive improvement 

My turntable has again suddenly become erratic and has now decided to work in one direction only.. I hate this thing!!!  But, I need it on my layout..

The only way to get at the problem is take up tracks. Time consuming and irritating. Don't have the room or I'd upgrade to a better model.  

As folks have said here countless times, the turntable drive is so flimsy, I can't believe Atlas put its name on it..a piece of junk.

Since I'm forced to dismantle it again, this time I'd like to upgrade it to a more robust drive. I'm wondering how well that traction tire upgrade worked? 

I think if someone could make a solid not to expensive aftermarket repair/upgrade for this contraption that works, they'd stay busy for years.

Joe    

 

The direction issue is probably the rectifier if you are using Ac Just a Dc can that switches direction by changing polarity. The belt problem is an easy fix. Usually the one that comes with it is deformed in a triangular shape. I have seen the similar issue with AF oil drum loaders. NOS I have suggested that they ship them with the belt off. I guess they sit on shelves for awhile. They seem to think that their customers are too stupid to put a belt on. Stick the belt ( The extra or a new one) to a flat surface with double sided tape. ( carpet tape works well). Using a good quality 3m sand paper with adhesive on a flat block and gently remove a few mils of thickness till it fits flat in the pulley sheave. It is usually cocked at an angle because it is to wide. And like batteries, take it of if you are not going to use it for awhile. After tweaking mine, could not get belt to jump off. Even slamming back in forth at full voltage with an engine on it. Nothing to break on the thing. The indexing is pure genius. And the belt drive is not really that flimsy. And once you weather it to get rid of the hideous white it is a nice looking piece. FMH

So it seems the reasl issue is the original drive belt is too thick and doesn't seat properly thereby causing slippage at high speeds or heavy loads.  Pat's Trains has substituted traction tires and Fred has reshaped the original drive belt and both seem to rectify the problem.  What size traction tire was used to replace the original drive belt?

Correct if  by Thick you mean WIDth not Height.

 

And the belts deform if left under tension and not operated for awhile.

FMH

I posted these before