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Any one else have issues with their lighted fasttrack bumpers?

 

I bought one set last year & one set back in June .  I just tried to use them this afternoon  !   I will not be able to return them .  

 

Just to say them performed bad !  They wont light half the time .   Sometimes they light ! 

 

I check with one hobby shop I go to .  He said he has sent a few back to lionel  because of the same thing .  

 

Makes me think that there is a design flaw or very poor  Quality Control  on Lionel's part .  

 

I see that Lionel has bad Quality Control with the Expensive NKP BERKS & POLAR EXPRESS Berks. 

 

They also have issues with their LIONCHIEF Plus RS-3 engines !

 

PLEASE POST if you had Problems with the lighted Bumpers !

 

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Originally Posted by WRGMILW:

Any one else have issues with their lighted fasttrack bumpers?

 

I bought one set last year & one set back in June .  I just tried to use them this afternoon  !   I will not be able to return them .  

 

Just to say them performed bad !  They wont light half the time .   Sometimes they light ! 

 

I check with one hobby shop I go to .  He said he has sent a few back to lionel  because of the same thing .  

 

Makes me think that there is a design flaw or very poor  Quality Control  on Lionel's part .  

 

I see that Lionel has bad Quality Control with the Expensive NKP BERKS & POLAR EXPRESS Berks. 

 

They also have issues with their LIONCHIEF Plus RS-3 engines !

 

PLEASE POST if you had Problems with the lighted Bumpers !

 

My only experience with lighted Lionel bumpers are the plastic tubular track kinds....and NEVER has one worked, even with new bulbs and adjusting the copper contact. Not a big deal for me but if I pay the extra $$ for a lighted version, it should light up. I mainly prefer the non-lighted bumpers. They are exactly the same, come in a pack of 3 vs a pack of 2 for lighted, and are cheaper. I remember one day, after one bumper had been in place for years with no light, came on bright. 

 

I also just bought another set of lighted bumpers. I would have preferred the non-lighted but it was all I could find. Both are VERY reliable and work flawlessly. I personally, after years of dark lighted bumpers, was stunned. 

Last edited by SJC

Had a total of ten of these on the layout initially, I believe... six failed or broke within the first few months, the last four are still going three years later.  I'll just continue to replace them with earthen bumpers as they fail.

 

The electric connectivity issues can be addressed, but as others have stated, physically they are not of robust design.  Too bad, as they really do look nice.

It's amazing how Lionel could stumble on a simple lighting circuit on a bumper of all things.

The overall physical design is also too fragile with the spring loaded pad usually breaking off and the tiny springs being lost. I replace those pads with some small rectangles cut from brown sheet foam from Michaels.

 

Some of the Fastrack accessories (lighted bumpers, highway flashers) need to be reworked to be a little more robust for "floor running." 

John:

 

On the underside of the bumper in the last picture looks like a resistor. If so, what size? You mentioned earlier that the repair requires both a resistor and a diode (1N4003), however I only see the resistor.

 

I am mechanical, so electronics brings me back 35 years to my last electrical class, so I am a bit rusty and cannot easily identify parts visually.

 

Thanks for you ongoing input into electrical issues. I have used many of your fixes to improve my layout.

 

Joe K

My post above is in error in reference to the #260 bumper. I thought (possibly in error) the older style die cast bumpers were once referred to as the #260? Apparently Lionel is now calling their plastic lighted bumpers #260. 

 

Anyway. the ones I was referring to are now called 'Die-Cast Metal lighted bumpers' and are part #6-62283 for $26.99 MSRP per pair. They will fasten too the Fastrack using set screws built into the bumper. Very solid product and they have made them in one style or another for many years, I think even going back to the pre-war era. There are direct replacement LEDs available for the incandescent bulbs included which I installed in mine.

 

The Fastrack bumpers are #6-12035 and are $32.99 MSRP, also per pair but still making the Die-Cast bumpers a better value. Of course, IMO, the Fastrack bumpers do look a little better, more modern looking, and probably go with the Fastrack look a bit better as well.

 

Edit: fixed wrong quantity for Fastrack bumper, MSRP was for two, not one. 

Last edited by rtr12

Thanks, it has been corrected. I must have looked at that thing 3 times while checking the part numbers and missed the correct quantity every time.

 

All the others showed two in the pictures, the Fastrack product only showed one in it's picture (even though it was plainly stated in the text). Guess a picture really is worth a thousand words?

Originally Posted by Pine Creek Railroad:

Sigwally,

    IMO you are wasting your time on a sub quality item, even if it is Lionel.  Either build your own or do as I did and use the modified metal 50's/60's bumpers, that work perfectly.   

PCRR/Dave

.

Dave: I wish I read this BEFORE I spent $$ on these Fastrack lighted bumpers. I have loved Lionel since I was 5 years old, and still do. But to say I am dissapointed is an understatement...

Dave: When your right your right, I am going to take a look at the die-cast metal bumpers you are talking about. There is a certain sadness admitting to oneself that a company you are emotionally tied to ( as I said since 5 years of age ) has produced a bad product. But the more I learn the worse it gets...

I wanted to take a moment to thank Gunrunner John for posting the electronic fix to the LED bulb. I really appreciate your work here and for trying to help me out.  After flicking it with my finger several times ( and not that hard ) the bumper started coming apart slightly. After pressing the delicate pieces back together I was struk with how fragile the design really is.  I am seriously considering the # 260 and the current 6-62283 that several members mentioned. I am hoping it will be an easy mod to fit it to the Fastrack rails...

I have 6, 6-12035,  Tired of twisting, wiggling, & reconnecting I went to the OG Forum.  I followed GRJ Fix.  Unfortunately, I thought I could do a quick check before soldering to the Fastrack resister plate.  I assume I burned the LED.  It was just a quick flicker.  

I went to Lionel Parts and could not find The Red LED.  Where the manual states to go.  Do most Service Station carry them?  I will be in ST. Paul, MN. next week. I do not want to spend $ on S/H.  Their service Tech will not be in until next week with the answer.  Or is there another cheaper source?

They're just bog standard 3mm round-top red LED bulbs, you can get them anywhere.

How fast do you want them?  Here's a couple sources on eBay, note the price difference.  The expensive ones are US supplied.

100pcs 3mm Red LED - 231507621146, 99 cents total with shipping

 10 pcs Ledtech 3mm RED Round LED Lamp - 201184042320, $3.24 with shipping.

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

Gunrunnerjohn:

I wish I would have searched here before I ordered these.  I bought them for the Christmas tree layout I've posted on.  Well now that the track power issues are resolved I'm finding that these not lighting had nothing to do with track power or the lack of continuity thereof.  They are just POS.  

Do you have any updates on your repairs noted above?  

I can press on the angled supports and that seems to make them light at times.  Can I pull the LED straight out and try something on the contacts before I mutilate them?

If I can't pull out the LED can you post a picture of how you press them out?  Do you press out all 4 posts?  

I'd really like to fix these rather than send them back.  I think this fix would be minor indeed to what was required to get my $$$$ Legacy crane car to operate correctly.  It was also a bit of a dysfunctional mess out of the box.  (But I love it now.)

Here is what I have always done:

apply solder between the screw and the metal tab it is screwed to (this equates to two places underneath the roadbed). This ensures a good electrical connection.

secondly, remove the LED and spread the legs outward slightly, then reinsert into the LED holder, this ensures the leads of the LED make good contact with the holder. 

Finally, bend the center rail pin towards the outside rail to ensure good electrical continuity.

sounds like a lot, but resolves all the frustration!

Mike

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