Proto sound 1 Issue

Try putting a lighted caboose behind the engine. Some of the early Z4000 transformers don't go to zero volts when the handle is moved to the full off position and this residual voltage keeps the engine in neutral.

Look in your Z4000 manual, there is a whole section on programming original Protosound features using the program feature of the Z4000.  It makes it very easy to do a reset or other options.  It starts in page #6 in my Z4000 manual.

I just tried the lighted caboose but still nothing.  I will try reading up again in the Z4000 manual.  So to do a feature 18 reset, throttle off, press the program button, (direction button), then using the whistle button to scroll up until the volts read "18"?

Here's an update to what I have done so far; using a Z4000, loco on the track, throttle off.  Pressed "program" button, scrolled up to "18", pressed the "bell" button and I get the air brake release but I do not get the 3 clinks/3 clanks.  Should I be using a Ni-MH battery instead of the BCR?

It could be scrambled if it won't change reset states.

First Power up to about 12V for 45 secs to charge BCR.

Lower voltage to about 9V on the Z-4000.  Press direction button for 1sec and release.  Does it move?  G

I did as prescribed and after I pressed the direction button for one second, the cab lights went out as long as the direction button was pressed and the loco did not move.

try a 9 volt Alkaline for testing only. don't leave it in the engine (see what happens) 

Still no change with the 9 volt Alkaline battery

You have to get a garbled bell sound to have the reset 18 confirmed.

With the Z-4000 handle off,

Press program.

Use the whistle button to go to 18.

Press select.

The transformer automatically does the voltage up and down until you hear 3 clanks and 3 clinks.

Press select again and you should then hear a garbled bell sound.

Then press Program to finish.

It gets as far as the voltage up and down as I can see the lights from a lighted caboose on the same track blinking but I do not hear any clanks or clinks at all.

Sounds like it is scrambled, you need an MTH tech with the chips to reset the software.   G

And these chips that you mentioned, would that be the Proto-Sound reset kit? (50-1023) or the chips that only the MTH tech have?

Since you aren't getting the three clanks, you need the chips only techs have.

Just for my general knowledge after the chip has been redone by the MTH tech how long do these boards last? Does any have a number they can give me? I am trying find out if it better to upgrade to the next level.  Any suggestion or comments are welcome.

They are still running fine.  The software conflict occurs when a battery is weak and a reset or function is attempted.  Enough voltage for the processor to attempt update, but not enough to finish it right.

The MTH chips reinitialize, or in the event of an ID conflict, it can be cleared.

Bob,  If you can't even come out of reset to get to 2 clinks, there is an issue.  Even without a battery you should be able to get clinks and clanks, since power is never removed. 

As John stated, the reset or Make PS set, is only for a specific symptom which is 3 clanks at start up.   G

Since this is an AA set, could the second A unit not being hooked up to the engine that is malfunctioning cause some of the problems?

No. The front A should run alone.

For many of these, MTH can supply a later version of the chip that doesn't suffer from the 3-clanks lockup for battery issues.  If you have a good battery, a reset should keep it running indefinitely.

Bob,

   In reality the very best thing you can do for a P1 engine is to install a BCR to eliminate any low battery problems in the future, I highly recommend doing this when you have your new chip/board installed. 

PCRR/Dave

I already have a BCR in the engine now but looking back when I first bought it used, I may have had the original battery and I may have tried to switch the direction too quickly before the battery had sufficient charged and may have scrambled the board.  Thanks to all for your expertise and advice, now to find someone to get it back to original working condition.

 I can do it.  Only need the boards if your comfortable removing them.  G

I left out a step for reset 18 (Factory Defaults) and corrected it with slanting letters above. You have to press select again after hearing the 3 clanks and 3 clinks. I don't know how I missed that 2 days ago. Duh....