Proto-Sound (1) speaker buzz

These can be tougher to isolate.  A VR on the bottom board can fail and start producing higher then normal voltage, there can be a bad capacitor, Possible wire issues, or bad speaker.  Takes trouble shooting by swapping out components to figure out.  G

Can I swap it's tender with the tender of my 30-1113-1 NYC Hudson to see if it's in the locomotive or tender as the 1st step?  Or will that not work?

I've messed with this a bit, it seems if you take the top PCBA and kinda rotate it (keeping it parallel to the bottom board) the sound goes away.  It also gets worse as I turn the track power up.  Is it possible that the connectors between the two PCBAs are loose or have a cold joint on one of the boards?

As for swapping parts out, can I swap with any other PS1 PCBAs?

If you can place your hand on the top board when powered up and the buzz goes away, there is a bad ground on the board, you can try removing the chip carefully then re-seat the chip. If no better, replace the protosound board.

In my experience, a buzz in the sound of a Protosounds loco means the top board is on it's way out. It is almost impossible to diagnose until is actually happens. You could try a different speaker or a volume pot, it is easy to do, but I don't think the results will please you. And, to replace the sound board it is a minimum of $80, as the retail is $140. If you watch the Buy/Sell board, sometimes Protosounds boards show up, at a reasonable cost. As an aside, every time I have one of these camelbacks in for service for whatever reason, I take a 1.5 volt bulb and wire the back up light to operate, it is an easy conversion and looks great. I do this at no charge, and wait until the owner asks about it, and they are always pleased with it. 

I did notice that the tender shell had provisions for a light and thought it odd that there isn't one.  In fact I wondered if I could add a light and wire it up at some point.  If you have some instructions I can follow and a parts list, I'd love to do this to mine.  I've already added a Proto-Coupler to my NYC Drefuss that didn't come with one, so I'm not new to learning and upgrading these wonderful PS1 locos.  My LHS MTH dealer thinks I'm a moron for not getting the latest and greatest PS2/3 trains, but for what I do, the PS1s are a no brainer steal of a deal.  They look great, run really well (when taken care of, I thin kthis camelback got dropped at some point), and sound good enough to make me happy.

Plug a 1.5V bulb into the green 2 pin connector on the bottom board.  Connector is near the relays.  If they are white, just test one.  One side is fwd light, other is the reverse light.  Since board is in tender you get to connect a reverse light.  G