Std Gauge PRR B-1 electric switcher - 3D printed shell/frame and aluminum frame.

VERY NICE work!

Jim, you continue to amaze! And now for a McKeen motor car???

Eric

Jim, ...Id have to say one of the best little details I really like is the two round head screws on the side frames.....really beckons back to the STD. gauge days.....that’s a nice touch I wouldn’t mess with.....that really looks nice!....take a bow sir!........Pat

Fantastic job !  I am kitbashing/creating my own standard gauge engine and would like to know what timing belt pulleys and belts you used .  Can you supply a link to where you got them ? 

By the way , your engine would look awesome running under a live catenary system . I have a home made/ kitbashed standard gauge MU set that I run off my homemade live catenary system . Its very toy like but it does work and works well.  Cheers !

JohnnieWalker posted:

Fantastic job !  I am kitbashing/creating my own standard gauge engine and would like to know what timing belt pulleys and belts you used .  Can you supply a link to where you got them ? 

By the way , your engine would look awesome running under a live catenary system . I have a home made/ kitbashed standard gauge MU set that I run off my homemade live catenary system . Its very toy like but it does work and works well.  Cheers !

Hey Johnny,

I am using '2GT' style pulleys, 16mm pulley size (also available in 20mm). You can get them with different axle sizes, I am using 5MM. Had to rebore the Lionel wheels for the slightly larger axle size (a few thousandths).

Bought mostly on ebay, search for 2GT or GT2. Belts are typically 6mm wide. You'll need to determine the belt size using a calculator that factors in the size of your pulley and the spacing between the axles. I had belts that were ever so short, so had to get the next larger one and then add tensioner pulleys in between. If you are designing, you'll want to get the exact axle spacing for the pulley and belt combination so you can avoid the pulleys. I should have done that first. Another 1mm spacing and I would have had a tight fit.

Here's a belt calculator, a little tricky to use:

https://www.bbman.com/belt-length-calculator/

Click 'Metric' and GT 2mm for the belt size. Pick pulley sizes (I'm using 16 for both). Enter 6mm for belt width (doesn't really matter for length of belt.

Put in your desired center distance in MM, then click on the box with numbers in it on the right side, it will then calculate and tell you the next closest belt and actual center distance. Belts are specified in the number of teeth. I used 186 teeth belts for the B1. Originally going to use 180's, but centers were just a little too far apart. Could not find a source for 182's. (so check on availability before you finalize center distance). These belts are super tough and smooth running.

Jim

Jim Waterman posted:

JohnnieWalker posted:

Fantastic job !  I am kitbashing/creating my own standard gauge engine and would like to know what timing belt pulleys and belts you used .  Can you supply a link to where you got them ? 

By the way , your engine would look awesome running under a live catenary system . I have a home made/ kitbashed standard gauge MU set that I run off my homemade live catenary system . Its very toy like but it does work and works well.  Cheers !

Hey Johnny,

I am using '2GT' style pulleys, 16mm pulley size (also available in 20mm). You can get them with different axle sizes, I am using 5MM. Had to rebore the Lionel wheels for the slightly larger axle size (a few thousandths).

Bought mostly on ebay, search for 2GT or GT2. Belts are typically 6mm wide. You'll need to determine the belt size using a calculator that factors in the size of your pulley and the spacing between the axles. I had belts that were ever so short, so had to get the next larger one and then add tensioner pulleys in between. If you are designing, you'll want to get the exact axle spacing for the pulley and belt combination so you can avoid the pulleys. I should have done that first. Another 1mm spacing and I would have had a tight fit.

Here's a belt calculator, a little tricky to use:

https://www.bbman.com/belt-length-calculator/

Click 'Metric' and GT 2mm for the belt size. Pick pulley sizes (I'm using 16 for both). Enter 6mm for belt width (doesn't really matter for length of belt.

Put in your desired center distance in MM, then click on the box with numbers in it on the right side, it will then calculate and tell you the next closest belt and actual center distance. Belts are specified in the number of teeth. I used 186 teeth belts for the B1. Originally going to use 180's, but centers were just a little too far apart. Could not find a source for 182's. (so check on availability before you finalize center distance). These belts are super tough and smooth running.

Jim

AWESOME !! thanks for the  great  information, it will be of great help . I'm in the beginning stages of designing a diesel switcher , a 2-4-2 wheel arrangement . A rough version of the Lionel Alaska rotary snow plow switcher.   Right now I've made a wood prototype , and bought two MTH can motors for it .  With the info you already gave me I will adjust my axles to fit the pulley and belt size .  Thanks again for sharing the info .  When I get further along I will post  photos .  Cheers !

Probably only need one of those motors to power a 2-4-2 if it's the '4' that's motorized. Two worm drives will bind each other if connected after the reduction gear. (like on the axles)

Jim

Jim Waterman posted:

Probably only need one of those motors to power a 2-4-2 if it's the '4' that's motorized. Two worm drives will bind each other if connected after the reduction gear. (like on the axles)

Jim

That is correct , only one motor is planned . I plan on using the worm gear thats on the motor now to mate up with the gear in the center of the axle .  I will make my own motor mount out of a large washer with a tab of sorts welded on to it  . The mini timing pulleys and belt will obviously supply power to the front axle .  I will be making the frame for the motor and axles out of 1/8 aluminum so I will have the freedom to place the axles at the required spacing for the timing belt . Its all planned out in my head and on scratch paper , where everything works, LOL .  Now to actually see if it will work .  Still waiting for parts to arrive in the mail .  The finished product is to kind of resemble the Lionel Alaska 2-4-2 switcher in standard gauge .  I made a wood mock up just to see  the size .

JohnnieWalker posted:

Jim Waterman posted:

Probably only need one of those motors to power a 2-4-2 if it's the '4' that's motorized. Two worm drives will bind each other if connected after the reduction gear. (like on the axles)

Jim

That is correct , only one motor is planned . I plan on using the worm gear thats on the motor now to mate up with the gear in the center of the axle .  I will make my own motor mount out of a large washer with a tab of sorts welded on to it  . The mini timing pulleys and belt will obviously supply power to the front axle .  I will be making the frame for the motor and axles out of 1/8 aluminum so I will have the freedom to place the axles at the required spacing for the timing belt . Its all planned out in my head and on scratch paper , where everything works, LOL .  Now to actually see if it will work .  Still waiting for parts to arrive in the mail .  The finished product is to kind of resemble the Lionel Alaska 2-4-2 switcher in standard gauge .  I made a wood mock up just to see  the size .

Neat - I should get a scan of the Lionel cab and print it out in standard gauge.  Or something close to that!

Jim