PRR people, ….can you look at this please?

Tom, that thread you shared brought back memories!  Below are pics of the MTH RK L1 project that prompted my original question on PRR steam lettering in that thread.  Note the yellow / buff lettering on top of Pennsy Dark Green Locomotive Enamel (DGLE). 

Pat, Pennsy DGLE is the color you want for a Pennsy steamer.  I use Badger Modelflex acrylics in a four parts Steam Power Black, one part Brunswick Green, and one part Weathered Black mix to create my version of DGLE.  The result is a very dark green that looks black.  (Modelflex "Brunswick Green" paint is much too green by itself to represent Pennsy DGLE.)  It looks true to me and is almost an exact match for MTH factory painted Pennsy steam.  The difference between DGLE and black is noticeable in a side-by-side comparison.  I'll try to post a picture tomorrow to illustrate the difference.

@bob2 posted:

Here are a couple shots - first one is a Max Gray import, second is a scratchbuilt Atlantic with the tender you probably want.

Oops - reversed.  Bottom is Max Gray.

As always, Bob, the models you show are very impressive. 👍

Mark in Oregon

Edit: photos removed.

More on DGLE thanks to @Scott R :

Pennsy Question | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)

See posts by @prrjim (attachment) and @jonnyspeed (field trip)

Maybe just me, but I would still go with black boiler and tender shell and gold-buff lettering. The difference between that DGLE and black seems minimal. (I grew up with black steam locomotives and tenders, green would be too jarring)

Tom

Found a picture on hand to compare Pennsy DGLE vs basic black paint.  All the models shown are MTH RK.  The Y6B and K4 are in factory paint.  I replaced the factory pilot on the K4 with a PSC brass part and used the Modleflex DGLE cocktail described in my previous post to paint it.  As you can see, the color match with factory MTH DGLE on the rest of the model is very good.  I use Micro Mark Neolube on the drivers to represent a weathered black appearance. 

Fellas, ….I can’t thank y’all enough for all the tips and info,…..I’ve got lettering covered, my in house graphics guy can make anything in razor thin vinyl ( I’m sure some of y’all has seen his work on my NYC stuff) so that’s covered, …I’ll go with the buff as suggested, ….but set me straight, ……Scott & Tom seem to be divided on black or DGLE, ….don’t worry about me fellas, I cocktail paint 5 days a week at my day job, ….if y’all say to make the dark green near black, ….well that’s easy for me….so set the recipe straight, and I’ll build it as advertised……..😉…..of course what Bob2 says is right would pretty much be gospel, and take it to the bank….game, set, match…..

Pat

Although you have a tender on the way; if you decide you want to go with a low side type (like bob2 suggested) I have this Lionel tender shell available...

I think it would be for an E6: email me if you're interested. 🙂

Mark in Oregon

One further note on the colors (I don't go down quietly )...in the attachment mentioned in one of my posts from what later turned out to be the Pennsylvania Railroad Technical & Historical Society...p.5 of the brochure mentions about other parts like compressors, etc. and which color to paint them, "Whether they are painted black or dark green makes very little difference, as these two "colors" are so similar."

Tom

That's the one!

On the DGLE or Brunswick green, I am not the guy to ask.  I use Scalecoat Brunswick, but I add some CNW green so I can tell that my locomotives are not black.  I am pretty sure the Scalecoat is accurate, but indoors it just looks black.

Floquil Brunswick is a bit more green than I like, but since they don't make it any more, that is useless info.

And finally - I am anything but a Pennsy expert.  I do admire PRR locomotives, and have quite a few.  I am partial to Tuscan Red passenger equipment, but I just like trains.

Mark - you are violating my copyright.

@Strummer posted:

Pat

Although you have a tender on the way; if you decide you want to go with a low side type (like bob2 suggested) I have this Lionel tender shell available...

I think it would be for an E6: email me if you're interested. 🙂

Mark in Oregon

Mark, thank you!…I’ll shoot you a message,….I also have a Lionel E6 that needs a tender too,…..so now my choices for all this odd ball Pennsy stuff I have laying around won’t go to waste!….I’ll get up with you in a minute ….thanks again…

Pat

@PRR8976 posted:

One further note on the colors (I don't go down quietly )...in the attachment mentioned in one of my posts from what later turned out to be the Pennsylvania Railroad Technical & Historical Society...p.5 of the brochure mentions about other parts like compressors, etc. and which color to paint them, "Whether they are painted black or dark green makes very little difference, as these two "colors" are so similar."

Tom

Tom, ….no need to go all lawyer like,….🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣….that was a joke!…y’all just say what to paint it, and ima do it!!…..I can make Pennsy green so black you’ll need a spectrograph to tell it apart….😉

Pat

OK, fire up the spectrograph, then!

@bob2 posted:

Mark - you are violating my copyright.

Sorry.

I guess I thought that since I was quoting you, credit for the photos was not needed. I will go back and edit that post after eliminating those pictures...

Again, I apologize.

Mark in Oregon

I don't mind if you use my photos with attribution elsewhere.  Once in a single thread is plenty.  I am quite sure that a lot of folks would rather not see my photos at all, and I do personally repeat them now and then.

Obviously a lot of OGR forumites like to repeat photos, but I cannot fathom what it adds to a discussion - so I respectfully ask that my photos not be subjected to the horrible "reply with quote" button.

Bob2

I will be more careful in the future... although I don't agree with you on one point: I bet a lot of folks enjoy seeing your pictures! 😊

Mark in Oregon

For me, part of the  fun is making the models as accurate to prototype as possible.    So I try to paint my steamers as close as I can get them.    I have mixed my own DGLE from Scalecoat paints and I have used Scalecoat without mixing.    both seem fine.    I just have a mindset against plain black if the PRR painting instructions described something else.      On the other hand, I have not figured out how to get the window frames on steamer cabs painted red!      It is too small a place for my fumble fingers.  

Everyone can do it their own way.    that is OK too.

I actually never thought about the tender lettering colors before as to what it says about the locomotive. I had just thought it was whatever they wanted it to be, whether white, silver, gold with the box around it, etc. I do remember my HO 2-10-4 Texas having the gold lettering and the box around it. After handling that locomotive for so long, the box began to disappear. It never bothered me because I had just regarded it as a toy. I think I would feel differently if it wore off of one of my O Scale engines. I'd have to give Pat a call to fix that.

Once again, very informative and interesting.

@harmonyards posted:

….I also have a Lionel E6 that needs a tender too,…..so now my choices for all this odd ball Pennsy stuff I have laying around won’t go to waste!…

Pat

I think I might have a solution; email sent...👍

Mark in Oregon

I am really an SP steam nut.  SP had a habit of painting injectors, check valves, window frames, doors, and valve handles scarlet.

Si Simonton told me to get flat red Pactra and a good brush.  That works!  But even better is a bottle of Rangoon Red auto touch-up paint.  Here in California it is water borne, a lot like Pactra.  It comes with its own brush.

For some reason the water based paint flows where you want it to, and not where you don't.  It doesn't take a steady hand.