UPDATE 8/13/15: With the help of folks here on the Forum answering my questions below--and watching all of Laidoffsick's Kadee "How-To" videos on YouTube--I completed my first two Kadee conversions this week. The two Weaver 40' boxcars pictured below are the first cars to join my 3-rail scale fleet.
I also included a photo of a Kadee car vs. a non-converted car with the "lobster claw" coupler. As you can see, I was able to lower the Kadee car's ride height over the trucks by following Hot Water's advice to use small washers as spacers between the truck and car bolster.
Thanks again everyone for your help!
Kadee car on left vs. claw car on right...notice difference in ride height over trucks!
ORIGINAL POST:
Well, I did it! I ordered a few pair of Kadee couplers so I can finally give them (and 3-rail scale!!) a try. They should be here in a few days, but in the meantime I have a few questions for the experts here. I'm hoping that some of you have "3-rail scaled" Weaver freight cars...
I would like to start by converting a few Weaver 40' boxcars that I've recently weathered. These cars are currently equipped with Weaver 3-rail die-cast trucks and couplers, which--as many of you probably know--are two separate pieces. Ideally, I would like to keep the Weaver die-cast 3-rail trucks while removing the Weaver coupler and then body-mounting the Kadee's.
It appears that mounting the Weaver 3-rail truck (without the Weaver coupler) directly to the bolster will cause the 3-rail wheel flanges ("pizza cutters") to rub up against the underside of the car floor...or "bottom out" for lack of a better description.
So, what do I do to make up for the space that the "thickness" of the coupler shank provided between the truck and the bolster? Is some sort of spacer required? Should I use washers? Or am I simply missing something here?
Any help would be greatly appreciated! I can take a few pictures, if necessary, to better show what I'm trying to explain with words. Thank you!