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I have recently expanded my layout and need input on changes to DCS system. Yes, I have purchased Barry"s book. I have replaced my older TIU's with revision L and added 2 additional TIU's to cover track additions. All TIU's were relocated to a vertical position above the lowest track level. TIU's will recieve power through 180 watt bricks. Now for the questions and clarifications. The bricks will be wired directly to each TIU input, and that the circuit breaker in the brick will protect that side of the TIU. Now for the output side. I will be interfacing a TMCC unit with the DCS. Should all common outputs be grounded together on the output side and then broken out to the seperate barrier strip for each channel? As far as circuit protection for the output side, I have 10 amp circuit breakers from Scott's odds and ends. Is this sufficient protection, or do I need to use 10 amp fast acting glass fuses instead. Also, I used the magic lights on all channels on my older TIU's. It is my understanding that this is not necessary on the revision L TIU's. Is this correct, or should I continue to use them. I would appreciate the input as I would like to get this right the second time around.

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You should be fine with the bricks. I found the breaker on the side of my bricks to be pretty fast.

 

I am not qualified yet to answer your multi TIU question. I only own one TIU and one AIU with a TMCC add on in the distant future.

 

You would like to have the GFCI outlets on your house wall with a copper ground rod installed past your Mains service drop box. I have had the bricks trip before the outlets did. That has to be fast enough for me. Now when I bring on the big Z4000... we will see.

Originally Posted by kmarquis:

Should all common outputs be grounded together on the output side and then broken out to the seperate barrier strip for each channel?   Also, I used the magic lights on all channels on my older TIU's. It is my understanding that this is not necessary on the revision L TIU's. Is this correct, or should I continue to use them. I would appreciate the input as I would like to get this right the second time around.

Yes, tie all common/black outputs together.  Do not use the magic lights with Rev.L.

Lee 145 and any others that may not understand. Current (amps) on one side of a power brick does not equate directly to the same current on the other side. Watts is what equates, watts is watts. If you draw 10 amps at 18 volts for your trains that is 180 watts, amps times volts. Take that 180 watts to the plug side and add some for loss in the power brick, let's say a total of 200 watts is being used by the power brick. 200 watts devided by the input voltage, 120 volts, equals the current being drawn by the power brick from the wall outlet, in this case about 1.66 or one and two-thirds amps. You could connect 9 power bricks at full power to the same wall circuit and still only be just drawing the 15 amps. Again, add some for safety sake and you could easily connect say 7 power bricks to a 15 amp house circuit without any trouble.

 

Al

hoso is correct in his analysis

 

FYO, a GFI outlet does NOT protect against overloads. It only opens when the amperage on the hot side is not equal to the amperage on the neutral, which situation means some current is flowing via another route, like via a person.

 

If your house does not have the neutral (white) wire connected to a ground rod, you might want to consult a qualified electrician.

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