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Well, UPS finally dropped mine off late last night, during the 40min window I wasn't home, at about 7:30pm.  So after we got home and the kids in bed, I open them up.  For once the wife wasn't wanting my attention as she had some scrapbooking she wanted to do, and this would keep me out of her hair.  So I open the two regular reefers and oil the axles before placing them on the track.  Then I get the sound reefer out and turn it over to oil it's axles and hear a rattle.  Sigh.  So I gently shake it and it rattles more.  So I open the hatches and try to shake whatever it is out, and nothing comes.  So I get a light and look in and find a largish piece of clear plastic.  I manage to fish it out the side doors (BTW, the VisionLine serial number is on the inside of one of the side doors for those that are wondering.).  A close look at it as I try to figure out why it would even be in there I realize it's the type of thing Lionel puts under PCBAs to keep them from shorting out.  I look in the all the ice loading hatches and sure enough find a PCBA floating around inside.  Sigh, time to open my brand new never been on track sound reefer so I can secure the boards so that it doesn't short out.

 

So here's the best way to open the reefer, IMHO, due to the mistakes I made as I fumbled with mine.  Unscrew the screws for for the trucks mount, but leave the screw in the truck.  If it moves it's a bloody pain to get back in!  Once the trucks are loose, carefully shift them to the side, careful of the wires, and you'll see holes that has the body screw.  Remove those two screws and the floor should now come off.  Due to not wanting to break the fine detail, I wasn't sure how to get the floor off.  I finally figure out that if I partly screwed the truck back on I now had a nice safe way to pull up, and it kept the truck screws in place.  Here is a photo of the bottom with the trucks loose and you can see one of the body screw holes.  There are two, but the other hole is in the shadow the other truck.

 

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Now with the floor loose I carefully rotated it over and got a look inside.  On the left you can see the loose board.  Looks to be the TMCC receiver as it has wires going up to what I assume is the antenna.

 

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So I move the board and put the plastic piece in, and then try to put the board back.  The housing has the little snap fingers to hold the PCBA in place, but mine were bending in the way.  Looks like whomever set the board was a little rough and snapped both of them so that they now just flop into the way.  So with some careful maneuvering I was able to get the board in past the fingers and they now flop onto the top of the board.  As long as I don't treat the car as a rattle, the PCBA fit in sung enough it'll stay in place.  I then had no trouble programming it and making a train and running it with my BB.  I also noticed that the manual has several misprints in it.  Like for the B and no-B buttons are both listed as enabling sounds.  The wording is such I thought it was two different sounds, flange grind and curve grind.  But after playing with it, I figured out that both grinds are the same and the no-B button is really a disable button.

 

In the end I really didn't enjoy them that much,. But it doesn't help that it was late at night and they were late getting to me and I almost missed my son's swim meet due to waiting for them as I didn't want them just sitting at the front door where everyone could see them but I had to leave and chance it as I wasn't going to miss his race.  And I chipped a tooth while working on the reefer.  I have a habit of putting the screwdriver in my mouth when I need both my hands when working on small things like this, and I ended up biting down too hard and chipped the tooth.  So I called it a night went to bed.  I'm sure once I get them play with them tonight I'll fall in love with them.  Here's hoping that the aux tender and caboose are not far behind so that I can have my full train.

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Don't feel too bad, when I put mine on the track, someone asked me about the operation of the volume control.  So, I opened the hatch, then another, and finally all of them.  No volume control!  WAIT, I see it flopping around inside.  The post it's on is apparently a compression fit, but for some reason, mine isn't clamped, and it's free to rotate on the post.  I was able to flop it around and access it, but clearly that will have to come apart to fix that.

 

The sucker is certainly loud, so there will be no issue hearing it on the layout, that's for sure.  My second set arrived, so with 30 reefers interspersed with the two sound cars and maybe a couple of my custom sound cars, I should have enough sound for my train.

 

I'm glad my volume control was in place. And yes they are loud, maybe even louder than the VL BBs.  I almost think it has more sound steps/levels then the BB does as it seems as I pushed the volume up button in train mode it ding at least once more then the BB did.  Guess Lionel wanted to make sure you heard it over the other sounds.  I do wish Lionel offered more sound cars, even as single cars.  Pity I came late to this scale in the hobby, as I'd love to have the tank cars and stock car.

Originally Posted by Professor Chaos:

I also had the loose piece of clear plastic in mine - think it will be ok without going in and putting it back in place?

There are metal screws under where the PCBA goes, and that plastic piece keeps the bottom of the board from touching those screws and shorting out.  I wouldn't (didn't) chance it personally, but it is up to you.

No loose boards in mine, I fixed the loose volume control, a rubber grommet and a spacing washer tightened it up on the post.  It looks like they glued them to the posts, not a very secure method as there was plenty of slop in the fit.  If you push down on the volume control, I'm guessing more people will see loose volume controls.  In my case, I didn't have to push down, it was already loose.  Easy fix, and so far the only issue.  The consist is really awesome with the two VL-PFE sound cars and my prototype sound car all running together.  It is certainly one noisy consist!

 

The problem with the design seems to be this: when the wire connector leading to the sound board is plugged into the PCB, it interferes with one of the plastic tabs that holds the PCB in place.  So careless assembly breaks off one of the plastic tabs, leaving the PCB to come loose during shipping.

 

I opened mine up and replaced the insulating sheet.  Even with one of the retaining tabs broken, I think the PCB will stay put during normal use.

 

Those truck screws are indeed kind of a b----.

Last edited by Professor Chaos
Originally Posted by BradFish1:

Probably a dumb question, but what is the program/run switch for on these cars? Can you turn the sounds off with Legacy?

Yes, you assign it an ID with TMCC or Legacy remote and you can control individual groups of sounds:  Banging/creaking, Flange squeal, Flat wheel, and crew talk.  You can also add it to a consist ("Train") and access the controls using the Train Link button in Legacy.  The sounds are quite impressive, the crew talk, not so much.

Bob

One thing I liked is that for those that bought more than one set, you can set them all to the same TMCC ID, and then switch all but one to min, and still get good sounds.  At least that's what the manual says.  I hope this means Lionel is planning on releasing more of these in either different road numbers or road names so that we can have long noisy trains.

I think you're right about that Will, the QC doesn't look to be the greatest on these.  I've glued several of the steps back on, they press in under the doors, but it looks like they didn't bother to glue them, so they just fall out!  Of course, there's the volume control I had to fix.  My other volume control doesn't flop around, but it's all the way to the edge of the hatch, I can barely get the screwdriver into the slot.

 

On the plus side, they have operated properly and sound great!

 

 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

I think you're right about that Will, the QC doesn't look to be the greatest on these.  I've glued several of the steps back on, they press in under the doors, but it looks like they didn't bother to glue them, so they just fall out!  Of course, there's the volume control I had to fix.  My other volume control doesn't flop around, but it's all the way to the edge of the hatch, I can barely get the screwdriver into the slot.

 

On the plus side, they have operated properly and sound great!

 

 

John,

 

Agreed on the QC.  My sound car has something rattling back and forth, I cringed when I heard it...thinking here we go again...back to Lionel.  Fortunately, however, I have not had any operating issues...thus I shall defer to the old saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."  

 

 

 

Michael

 

 

 

Way late jumping on the bandwagon for these, should have preordered but MSRP (at a LHS that had one magically appear on their website) is over $100 less than the current auction going rate.

 

At any rate, I had the exact same problem with the loose piece of plastic and loose board.

 

Thanks to this thread I knew exactly what to do. In put the piece of lexan back into the base of the "board holder" and snapped the board back into place. I bent one of the metal clips outward a bit to make this easier. I also plugged the antenna back in as well.

 

If you have a decent magnetic philips screwdriver this repair is a snap, much easier than say, replacing a smoke unit fan.

 

I removed the truck screws moved the trucks back slightly , then the two recessed screws that hold the body on. Flip the whole thing over while holding the trucks in place, then remove the shell.

 

Bottom line, great info on this thread! Thanks sinclair!

 

Now if Lionel would release more of these in eastern roadnames.

 

 

 

 

Last edited by RickO

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