Railking blue comet 30-1172-1 just purchased.. seller cant get it going

Chris,

You don't have an E-mail listed in your forum profile and I have a "proposition" for you. Please E-mail me at the address in my profile.

Thanks!

Do you know what's wrong with it?   What's a RTR? does it also have a proto-2 board?

Gregg,

What's a RTR?

That would be an MTH Ready-to-Run set engine.

does it also have a proto-2 board?

He says "my idea is to swap out the Bantam tender PS2 boards and put in the newer tender" so I would expect that it does.

Ok thanks...

The best method to repair is get a PS-2 3V board and install the 5V connectors on it and then mount it in place of the board in the engine.  Change speaker to 4ohm and battery to 2.4V.  The second best would be to get an upgrade kit and upgrade it including changing out both harnesses.  G

Take a look at the battery, That's gotta go for sure.

It's shot. New battery, no click nothing. Won't come up in remote.  Seller thought it was shot. With the battery in tender. If he stored it. There is no power keeping boards charged up. I bet they just quit from not having being connected.  

Barry, I'll email you. 

You have the much hated 5 volt board.  Do what George stated and  you will be very happy.

Only steam upgrade kits now available are PS3.

In-loco boards are common.  I have revised one with an upgrade kit in tender, but be aware you can lose control of some lighting:  cab, boiler, marker.

Note GGG said a PS2 kit for in loco installation.  I am told the PS3 boards with connectors to replace 5-volt boards are slightly larger and present fit issues.  No problem with a PS3 board going into most tenders, although fitting speaker may require thought.  I would note that if you go the PS2 board route, you can install a generic supercapacitor instead of a battery.

Actually RJR, the two PS/3 diesel upgrade kits I received the other day would refute that assertion.

I assume you mean the PS3 diesel upgrade board is not larger than the PS2 board was.  But several have said that the PS3 board intended to replace the 5-volt board is larger than the PS2 3-volt equivalent, and couldn't be installed in some locos.

I haven't opened the diesel board.  Have no use for it at this time.

Here's the board, judge for yourself.  I suspect one sticking point is the connectors sticking out the top increases the clearance, that's the problem I had putting this in the boiler.

I don't know, John, I've never used a PS3/2 board in a loco, and have no intentions to.  LAst problem, I just gutted thhe loco and used an in-tender upgrade kit.

Well, having a lazy streak, if this fits, it's a lot quicker to get the loco back on the rails.   It's also a bit cheaper to just buy the board vs. the whole kit.

I suspect that Joe User, not being a tech, can get the upgrade kit through MTHRRC cheaper, at least before the price rise.  Other techs have told me they've encountered some situations where the new board just won't fit.    If the board fits use it, especially if the price is right.

You're right, but you don't get the PS32 board with the 5V connectors.  As to why they only sell that to techs, that's another mystery.  The upgrade kits went up Jan 1, so they're already at the higher prices, whatever that is.

Chris D posted:

It's shot. New battery, no click nothing. Won't come up in remote.  Seller thought it was shot. With the battery in tender. If he stored it. There is no power keeping boards charged up. I bet they just quit from not having being connected.  

Barry, I'll email you. 

This is just a question . Is it possible for a engine to lose it's data if left unattended for years  with  a battery that eventually dies.     The engine looks in good shape. Is is worth examining further ?   This engine has a voltage regulator someplace attached to the frame.   Are all the Plugs firmly seated? 

I'd at least try a sound file reload before giving up.   Nothing in conventional? No hiss or anything? Does it short out the transformer or sound like it's shorting. Or completely dead .. nothing.

Gregg,

Is it possible for a engine to lose it's data if left unattended for years  with  a battery that eventually dies.

Several years ago, I had a 3 volt PS2 steamer lose it's DCS ID# and revert to the factory default . At the time, the only thing to which I could attribute this was a very low battery.

I charged the battery overnight, deleted the engine and then simply re-added it to the remote.

Lo and behold, several years later it's still working just fine. I've recharged the battery a few times after it's gone flat again with no repeat of the loss of its DCS ID#.

However, it never became non-operational at all.

I'd suggest having the board tested by a tech at this point.

How much are straight out replacement boards for 5 volt applications.  Do they swap right in and out?  

I can't tell you the price, but they do just slip in.  You MUST change battery, of course, and you must change the speaker also.

Well, "slip right in" is a relative term.   While they have compatible connectors to the existing 5V board, they are a different form factor, and the connectors are positioned differently than the 5V boards.  The board carrier is wider than the 5V board package and doesn't always fit.  Also, the connectors on the top side, and the 5V board stack has them lower for better clearance.

Here's a thread where Marty F. shot many pictures, this is the board set in question: https://ogrforum.com/t...e-information?page=1