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Hi Guys

Just bought  a couple of NP F9's off Ebay here in the UK & enspired by a great  article in Pacific Rail News Dec 1995 about an enclave of BN units still operating in Washington state I want to turn these in to a couple of recently retired BN units leased or sold to a shortline in the 80's.

I would really appreciate your input on upgrades and detailing parts to be used on these sweet little units. Many thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

Cheers

Nick

PS has anyone flywheeled these?

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purchase replacement geared wheelsets from NWSL (NorthWest ShortlIne). they are a big improvement over the stock wheelsets.

in addition, I've included an article by John Armstrong: 'Sure Feet for the Atlas Engine (or F9)'. A detailed look at improving the way the power trucks are mounted, which gives the engines greater pulling power.

 

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I had a set I detailed for the PRR.   I tried to get them close to F7s since PRR did not have F9s.

I shaved off the cast on grabs and handrails and replaced them with wire.    And the big hole in the pilots is obvious.    I kitbased a PRR pilot for one, and by the time I did the second, P&D hobbies had a new passenger style pilot I used.     They also have freight pilots.      Or you can try filling and filing the existing ones.     P&D also makes all sorts of other detail parts for F-units such as MU cables for the ends.    

The conversion I did to make F7s which probably does not apply to you also included filing off the front louvre on the side and filling in the front porthole.   then putting in a new port hole more forward where they were on F7s, about where the louvre was.    Scale City Designs has the porthiole window frame castings from the old Keil Line molds.

IMG_5315[1]I found some CANON ballbrg shafted 12v motors at a surplus house ,turned some flywheels with the end bored for a press fit of the existing drive components , runs so smooth and really coasts . It fit like it was made for it . Even used the original motor clamp or hold down strap .On the truck mount , when you take the tower apart there is a U shaped metal piece in the top , I soldered a screw to it , reassembled , works like a dream . I used the NWSL wheelsets  , but I have also repaired the gear that splits by honing out the inside where it slides over axle , then pinned the gear and there is a brass tube that will fit right over the shoulder of the drive gear , I did this as an experiment waiting on the NWSL wheelsets to arrive. These F-9's can be detailed very nicely and are a beautiful molded nose model . For 70's vintage model pretty hard to beat , I have some with LIONEL bodies to be installed on this power drive chassis. You may be able to find these little powerful motors , they were 3.95 , I only bought about 8 and when I saw how good they would work , went back to buy the rest maybe 20 or 30 and they were gone 3 days later .IMG_5313[1]IMG_5314[1]

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Last edited by Scratchbuilder1-48

The side frames are an other weekness this is my fix for that, the angle pictured could be brass ( thats what  I used ) or plastic the side frame just slips on. I to have used brass tubing with the gear shoulders filled to except an interference fit with the tubing, then with the tubing slipped over to repair cracked gears, worked great.      ( cTr....Choose the Right )stephen 002

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Last edited by Stephen Bloy

... I used the NWSL wheelsets  , but I have also repaired the gear that splits by honing out the inside where it slides over axle , then pinned the gear and there is a brass tube that will fit right over the shoulder of the drive gear , I did this as an experiment waiting on the NWSL wheelsets to arrive...

Old post, but can you elaborate, perhaps with a picture?

Mark in Oregon

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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