RMT Beef Trouble

You've got two problems with your Beeps (not Beefs).  Let's separate the problems initially and talk about the derailing problem first.  Compare the couplers on both units.  Compare their height, how much they can move laterally, and how hard they move.  I'm guessing your B unit has a coupler bind or some mechanical issue that is making the coupler not be as accommodating as it needs to be and that is causing derailments.   Regarding the whistle problem, much more information is needed.  Does the horn on other engines work OK with the diode whistle?

Dale

Pennsylover posted:

You've got two problems with your Beeps (not Beefs).  Let's separate the problems initially and talk about the derailing problem first.  Compare the couplers on both units.  Compare their height, how much they can move laterally, and how hard they move.  I'm guessing your B unit has a coupler bind or some mechanical issue that is making the coupler not be as accommodating as it needs to be and that is causing derailments.   Regarding the whistle problem, much more information is needed.  Does the horn on other engines work OK with the diode whistle?

Dale

I believe he is talking about Beefs.  Beeps do not come in A and B units.

Oops, Beefs it is. Thanks PGENTIEU.

Pennsylover posted:

You've got two problems with your Beeps (not Beefs).  Let's separate the problems initially and talk about the derailing problem first.  Compare the couplers on both units.  Compare their height, how much they can move laterally, and how hard they move.  I'm guessing your B unit has a coupler bind or some mechanical issue that is making the coupler not be as accommodating as it needs to be and that is causing derailments.   Regarding the whistle problem, much more information is needed.  Does the horn on other engines work OK with the diode whistle?

Dale

Dale, the couplers are spring loaded for side to side movement.  In my opinion, they are a bit too stiff.  Coupler heights are all the same.  

Come to think of it, only my post-war locos will respond to the diode horn control.  I have a K-Line Train Master whose horn will not operate on the diode controlled whistle side of the ZW. 

Okay, sounds like you have a couple of beefs with a couple of Beefs?

I recall reading that sometimes the DC bias strength varies between controllers, and different brands respond differently to different controllers.

Had similar derailing issues with my Santa Fe Beefs.  The issue is 'torque steer', similar to what happens with some locos run with the powered axle in the front. 

What wound up working for me was running 'em ABA with the unpowered A in the front.   Only problem was that the unpowered A was also unlighted; it was rather nightmarish dismantling the chassis in order to rig a bulb.   ;^.^ 

I've also noted that some modern locos don't like the old-school whistle diodes.   The only real solution is to install modern diodes. 

Hope this helps! 

Mitch

I had the same problem with my Beefs. Basically,  I just put them aside and forgot about them. One day  I put them on my 072 curves,  and no problem, they even pulled 12 boxcars. So, from now on they will go on that loop, not the 031 curves..Bob

cabinet Bob posted:

I had the same problem with my Beefs. Basically,  I just put them aside and forgot about them. One day  I put them on my 072 curves,  and no problem, they even pulled 12 boxcars. So, from now on they will go on that loop, not the 031 curves..Bob

That's precisely what I plan to do.  My future permanent layout will have O42 curves.  I cannot imagine the Beefs will have any difficulty on those curves.  

RMT's website says the Beefs will handle O27 curves.  I beg to differ.

O27?  Not hardly.  I was having steering issues on O36 Fastrack... 

-MMM-

Dan, take a look at how the coupler knuckles and pocket fit together. Check the angle they are cabable of reaching when swung.  Over the years I've had to shorten knuckles and open pockets slightly (go slow, only remove what you need to. Because of slight size differences, too much off and another larger coupler may slip out.

  My Menards cars all needed to be trimmed for 0-27 use.

The whistle issue is odd.  I have a similar issue with a few; but my new wont work on discs and my old wont work with a diode. 

 My thought is this board wants to see more offset than 1 diode provides, or a different ramping of the introduction. (pretty sure two offset methods produce a different wave shape). It was likely designed with only the PW specs in mind. 

  The average diode only eats .5-.7v. which is actually under old whistle specs.  Break out the meter and switch to DC. Check the voltage with whistle on for each side and compare.  I've been meaning to for 2 years, but haven't had the luxury of having one of each type on one transformer. I'm betting the offset voltage is higher on the old disc.

Thanks to all who replied.  Some good thoughts there, that I hadn't considered.