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I have a bunch of Lionel Fastrack that I will be selling off, as I have discovered Ross Custom Switches and track. I also have become very interested in their Rossbed roadbed, but have no experience with it.

I asked Steve at RCS if he would send me a sample of the track and roadbed, which he did. He sent me a 3" track section, and approx. a 6" piece of the Rossbed to handle and play with.

Now, while I am very satisfied with Steve's customer service to send me the sample parts, I have to say that I am a bit disappointed in the Rossbed Road bed.

The Rossbed seems a bit brittle, and I was able to just brake off pieces at the edges. It has virtually no flexibility, in the short areas. I assume that a 15" piece would bend a bit before breaking, the edges snap right off if not handled with a bit of care.

This is not to say that I am absolutely against the stuff, but I had hopped for a bit more toughness in the product.

Any comments............ anyone?
Roger

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RWL posted:

...
The Rossbed seems a bit brittle, and I was able to just brake off pieces at the edges. It has virtually no flexibility, in the short areas. I assume that a 15" piece would bend a bit before breaking, the edges snap right off if not handled with a bit of care.

...

Rossbed is not like cork roadbed or Woodland Scenics foam roadbed.  It is more like foam-core, and the rigidness is designed to hold the track inserted into it.  It's intended for sectional track layout designs, as opposed to those layouts with lots of custom radii using flextrack.

As Peter said, if you spray the foam a speckled-grey color, it serves as a nice base before ballasting.  And some folks may choose to not even ballast the track at all.

Now here's the REAL beauty of going with a product like Rossbed.  Since it literally grips the track inserted into it, you can get away without using nails or track screws that may transfer sound to the plywood below.  Glue the Rossbed to the sub-roadbed (plywood), then apply a few dabs of glue to a few of the track ties before inserting the track into the roadbed... and voilla... The track is firmly held in place even without ballasting.  

So I wouldn't view the lack of flexibility as a negative at all -- as long as your layout consists primarily of sectional track.  The benefit of quiet running trains -- except for their own Railsounds -- is tremendous.  And the fact that Ross provides this product for both RCS and Atlas-O is a bonus.

I wish they would provide a version of Rossbed for MTH's ScaleTrax, because that's what I'm using on my new O- gauge layout.  But I realize ScaleTrax is a bit of a niche product right now, and I've got enough areas with custom radii that I'll be using enough flextrack to make a product like Rossbed less practical in those places on my layout.

David

 

Last edited by Rocky Mountaineer
Putnam Division posted:

I love it......I spray it with stone speckled grey paint and it simulates ballast, decreasing the amount I will have to use later.

All these pics are from Spring 2011......

Peter

I am glad you responded Peter,

I saw your other comments from earlier posts, and I agree that this stuff with the stone painting looks great, and since I do not plan to do any ballating at all, I am really interested in using this product. All of your pics really show how this works really will aesthetically.

I don't mind that it isn't flexible, but the brittle nature of the edges has me concerned.

Question 1) Does the paint make the edges a bit more tough so that they can be handled without flaking or chipping off?

Question 2) I notice that you have a lot of your track laid down on "unpainted" Rossbed. Do you lay it all out first, then just lift the track, remove the Rossbed, then paint it and replace it under the track?

Last edited by RWL
Putnam Division posted:

I love it......I spray it with stone speckled grey paint and it simulates ballast, decreasing the amount I will have to use later.

All these pics are from Spring 2011......

Peter

So then, can anyone comment on the brittle flakey nature of this material?I am not so concerned that it is inflexible, rather, I would have liked to see the material be a bit tougher.

Does the base paint and then the stone paint actually help with this, and keep it from braking up when put on the layout?

I still, really want to go this rout, Ross Switches, Ross Track, and Ross Roadbed, but have concerns that the stuff may not hold up over time.

 

Last edited by RWL
RWL posted:
Putnam Division posted:

I love it......I spray it with stone speckled grey paint and it simulates ballast, decreasing the amount I will have to use later.

All these pics are from Spring 2011......

Peter

I am glad you responded Peter,

I saw your other comments from earlier posts, and I agree that this stuff with the stone painting looks great, and since I do not plan to do any ballating at all, I am really interested in using this product. All of your pics really show how this works really will aesthetically.

I don't mind that it isn't flexible, but the brittle nature of the edges has me concerned.

Question 1) Does the paint make the edges a bit more tough so that they can be handled without flaking or chipping off?

Question 2) I notice that you have a lot of your track laid down on "unpainted" Rossbed. Do you lay it all out first, then just lift the track, remove the Rossbed, then paint it and replace it under the track?

I didn't paint it originally because I wanted to get trains running quickly back in 2011.  My dad and uncle who are in their 80s were coming for a visit, and I suspected that this was going to be my last time to show them any kind of layout.  Both of them were instrumental in my train layouts as a kid.  My dad for the obvious reasons.  My uncle and his wife, my aunt, gave me many of my operating cars for Christmas....the operating fireman the ladder car, the Minuteman missile car, the Reconnaissance Copter car, among others.  I'm probably forgetting some.

What I would do is take out about four or five sections at a time on a summer weekend.  I would spray them in the morning and by afternoon they would be ready to put back and I could do another batch.  I am a big believer in using the outdoors as your spray booth.  You don't have to worry about fumes.  I use the sun as a drying oven.  I would have to say that by October 2011, the entire layout was done as far as spraying the prospect.

In answer to the first question, stone paint on it has no effect on the edges. A lot of my pieces show wear around the edges.  It's because I have redesigned the layout a few times.  I plan to use a little ballast and scenery around the Ross bed so it should all blend in.  However, I have areas where the stuff is pristine and looks like it just flows.  From a distance you can hardly see the lines.

Peter

Last edited by Putnam Division
G3750 posted:

Since we are talking about roadbed, didn't AtlasO come out with a product themselves for their track?  Or was it only for 2-rail?  I seem to recall such a thing, but only vaguely.

George

Yes, Atlas did come out with a similar product, and it was called Atlas 3-Rail Road Bed, made from ground cork and other things, which I had hopes would be a bit tougher than the Rossbed. It is still on their website, so I called them yesterday to see if they would send me a sample. To my great disappointment, I was informed that they haven't made it for a couple of years. Seems like they should pull done the info from their site. They were also not nearly as accommodating as Steve at Ross Custom Switches.

Putnam Division posted:

I didn't paint it originally because I wanted to get trains running quickly back in 2011.  My dad and uncle who are in their 80s were coming for a visit, and I suspected that this was going to be my last time to show them any kind of layout.  Both of them were instrumental in my train layouts as a kid.  My dad from these reasons.  My uncle and his wife, my aunt, gave me many of my operating cars for Christmas....the operating fireman the latter car, the Minuteman missile car, the reconnaissance copter car, among others.  I'm probably forgetting some.

What I would do is take out about four or five sections at a time on a summer weekend.  I would spray them in the morning and by afternoon they would be ready to put back and I could do another batch.  I am a big believer in using the outdoors as your spray booth.  You don't have to worry about fumes.  I use the sun as a drying oven.  I would have to say that by October 2011, the entire layout was done as far as spraying the prospect.

In answer to the first question,Spring paint on it has no effect on the edges. A lot of my pieces show where around the edges.  It's because I have redesigned the layout a few times.  I plan to use a little ballast and scenery around the Ross bed so it should all blend in.  However, I have areas where the stuff is pristine and looks like it just flows.  From a distance you can hardly see the lines.

Peter

Thanks for chiming back in Peter. I think that I will probably go with this stuff and just give it a good coat of stone paint. Did I read that you put an undercoat of gray first, or do you just go right to the stone paint?

I also like to paint out of doors on a sunny day, so I may be a few years getting it all completed.

You also said you did a few pieces at a time, so do you leave the track unsecured, or do you remove the screws when you go to paint some sections?

I am trying to get all the info that I can on this, so that I can get it as right as possible from the start.

Gilly@N&W posted:
 
, I was informed that they haven't made it for a couple of years. 
 

You're not missing anything. I have a few pieces, (10" straights, 072 curves). It wasn't worth the effort to put is down. I was very disappointed with it. 

Thanks for the confirmation Gilly.. Good to know I am not missing anything there.

The Atlas o roadbed was horrible from the get go. If you think the Ross roadbed is weak, place the Atlas O roadbed in your hand. The plastic is like the thin blown cellophane plastic and the cork roadbed easily flakes off....hence why it's been out of stock for a few years now. IMHO the Ross product is superior to the Atlas O roadbed. Using the fleck paint makes it roadbed a bit more durable and looks more realistic.

prrhorseshoecurve posted:

The Atlas o roadbed was horrible from the get go. If you think the Ross roadbed is weak, place the Atlas O roadbed in your hand. The plastic is like the thin blown cellophane plastic and the cork roadbed easily flakes off....hence why it's been out of stock for a few years now. IMHO the Ross product is superior to the Atlas O roadbed. Using the fleck paint makes it roadbed a bit more durable and looks more realistic.

I am leaning more and more toward Ross Switches, Ross Track, and RossBed all the way.

Your search is over.

Ross is a better product than anything else from Lionel, MTH, Atlas, or Gargraves.

Ross switches are trouble free, bullet proof. Can't say that about anyone else.

If you ever have any issues, Steve will take care of you.

 They have a stellar reputation, and its well deserved.

Steve and staff are first class.

Last edited by Bluegill1
Bluegill1 posted:

Your search is over.

Ross is a better product than anything else from Lionel, MTH, Atlas, or Gargraves.

Ross switches are trouble free, bullet proof. Can't say that about anyone else.

If you ever have any issues, Steve will take care of you.

 They have a stellar reputation, and its well deserved.

Steve and staff are first class.

I am truly beginning to see that. I have also talked with Steve several times over the phone, and he has been more than willing to take the time to answer my questions. His staff, that answers when he is not there,  has also been just as helpful.

RWL posted:
Bluegill1 posted:

Your search is over.

Ross is a better product than anything else from Lionel, MTH, Atlas, or Gargraves.

Ross switches are trouble free, bullet proof. Can't say that about anyone else.

If you ever have any issues, Steve will take care of you.

 They have a stellar reputation, and its well deserved.

Steve and staff are first class.

I am truly beginning to see that. I have also talked with Steve several times over the phone, and he has been more than willing to take the time to answer my questions. His staff, that answers when he is not there,  has also been just as helpful.

No screws .......it just doesn't move.....and went a little ballast is glued in between, it won't go anywhere.......

Peter

Putnam Division posted:
RWL posted:

I am truly beginning to see that. I have also talked with Steve several times over the phone, and he has been more than willing to take the time to answer my questions. His staff, that answers when he is not there,  has also been just as helpful.

No screws .......it just doesn't move.....and went a little ballast is glued in between, it won't go anywhere.......

Peter

Thanks Peter. This stuff sounds better and better. So can I assume that the track sections stay together well with no extra help other than the friction of the inserted connection?

Last edited by RWL

I'm wondering how the Ross track/Ross road bed combination might work as an occasional floor layout track? It sounds like PRRHorseshoecurve uses it for temporary Christmas layouts.

I run traditional size trains, and only set up a portable layout on the floor on occasion. I'm not concerned with how the track looks as far as scale or realism.

I've used Lionel FasTrack so far and I've been happy with it, but that track is in storage for the time being. From what I've read, the newer FasTrack is very problematic with staying together, so I'm leery of picking up more of it. I'm thinking about the possibility of using Ross track/Ross road bed in the future.

My main concerns would be:

durability - FasTrack is very durable, how will the Ross track and road bed hold up?

cost - how does Ross track/Ross road bed compare in price to FasTrack?

connectivity - both mechanical and electrical - does the track stay together without electrical problems on a floor layout? I've had pretty good experience with my older FasTrack, but there are posts about the newer stuff not staying together.

I just have a couple of FasTrack switches and I've been happy with them. Sounds like Ross switches are very popular for permanent layouts. How would they be on a temporary floor layout?

It sounds like the Ross road bed would be a more quiet experience since it wouldn't have a hollow space under the road bed. And if I ever do build a permanent layout, I'd have the Ross track / Ross road bed to use on the layout.

Thanks,

 

Putnam Division posted:

I love it......I spray it with stone speckled grey paint and it simulates ballast, decreasing the amount I will have to use later.

IMG_ogr0001IMG_3307IMG_3483IMG_ogr0001IMG_3484IMG_ogr0001_1IMG_3485IMG_3486IMG_3497IMG_ogr0001IMG_3498

All these pics are from Spring 2011......

Peter

Hey Peter, I am curious as to what type/brand of spray paint you used? I had seen someone on youtube use spray paint and it slightly melted his foamboard(the pink kind) that he had around his tracks. Also wondering what would be the best stores to find them at?

Dave.

Will tubular track sitting on Ross road bed work with PW trackside accessories ?  I see the lumber mill pictured, wonder if other accessories work as well. If I have to raise up the accessory to match up with the track sitting on Ross roadbed, can the roadbed be used to raise the accessory ? I love the look of Ross road bed but I love my PW accessories more.  Also, will Ross track fit easily with the PW accessories like my tubular does ?  Looking to switch to all Ross products if feasible. I prefer a toy train look but am tired of Lionel switches.

Last edited by IC Gulf
IC Gulf posted:

Will tubular track sitting on Ross road bed work with PW trackside accessories ?   Also, will Ross track fit easily with the PW accessories like my tubular does ?  Looking to switch to all Ross products if feasible. I prefer a toy train look but am tired of Lionel switches.

For cosmetic reasons, I believe you defeat the purpose of RossBed if you use LIONEL or equivalent track, even if the tubular is limited to your accessories.

As for the PW accessories, these consist of (1) those with slide shoes; (2)  those with blades needed to adapt to the different heights between O and O27 track; and, (3) those whose placement adjacent to the tracks is fixed by "arms" or base which extend from the accessory to "fix" the accessory's location relative to the track.

One way to consider the slide shoe and blade questions is to consider Ross track (like Gargraves) as a variation of Super O track.  Super O solved the slide shoe issue by providing holes in the ties to accept "blades" which had extensions on the bottom to mate with holes preformed in the Super O ties.   These "blades" served the purposes of the rails/blades found on UCS and OCS PW LIONEL track and bases.

These blades are readily available and only require that you drill one hole in each of two Ross track ties equivalent in spacing and diameter as that found in Super O track. 

Some accessories with bases that extend under the track, e.g. the milk car stand, are problematic in which case that part of the base extending under the track is removed.   Easily done and, if you want to preserve your original base in tact, donor bases are abundant and cheap.

Bottom line, on the PREMISE that Ross track uses a similar foot print and spacing as Gargraves, you can have your PW accessories fully operational without using LIONEL tubular track. 

Granted, it may be necessary to cut and fit RossBed in certain circumstances, but the cosmetic benefits would be well worth the time and very modest expenditure involved IMHO.

In any case, the use of the Super O blades described above does work very well, as does using uncoupling magnets donated from UCS track sections described at length here recently is very worthwhile.  As to adjustments to RossBed to accomplish this, I have no experience--but it SHOULD work.

Last edited by Pingman
IC Gulf posted:

Will tubular track sitting on Ross road bed work with PW trackside accessories ?  I see the lumber mill pictured, wonder if other accessories work as well. If I have to raise up the accessory to match up with the track sitting on Ross roadbed, can the roadbed be used to raise the accessory ? I love the look of Ross road bed but I love my PW accessories more.  Also, will Ross track fit easily with the PW accessories like my tubular does ?  Looking to switch to all Ross products if feasible. I prefer a toy train look but am tired of Lionel switches.

 

Anything is possible. But it sounds more like a matter of priorities, and begs the question why you're drawn to Rossbed with Lionel tubular in the first place.   Did you perhaps miss the not-so-minor subtlety that Rossbed is only designed for Ross sectional track or Atlas-O sectional track?  Each piece of sectional track has its corresponding Rossbed piece of roadbed, whereby those track pieces actually "fit" WITHIN the Rossbed. If you're gonna use Lionel tubular track, then perhaps plain cork roadbed or Vinylbed would be a better choice. And it would be much less expensive.

Don't get me wrong. Rossbed is a great product, but it's meant to be used exclusively with either Ross track or Atlas-O track. Buying it and simply putting Lionel tubular on top of it seems like a waste of money, and you'd be doing both products a disservice.

Just sayin...

David

Last edited by Rocky Mountaineer

Well, I have been lurking here gathering tips for my forthcoming new layout. It will have Ross track and RossBed, which are here in boxes awaiting installation. In this forum, I saw that one of the ways to treat the RossBed was paint it with fleck paint. If anyone who was on this thread before can help, what paint did you use to get that result? I have found Krylon coarse and fine grades and do not know which can be the best in scale. Oh, by the way I am modeling Hi-Rail (not scale) so some degree of realism is desired. Brand name and part numbers are what I am looking for. It seems that the price of spray bombs has become crazy.

I know this is an old thread but any help is appreciated!

Give me about 15 minutes…..I’ll show you pictures of the stuff I used.

This thread started in 2016…..since then I’ve bought a boatload of of new Ross track and RossBed.

I’m waiting for an additional shipment of Mianne Benchwork.

This time, I put of base coat of flat gray and covered it with Rustoleum stone.

When I get to my laptop I’ll post the link to my painting pictures.

Peter

Last edited by Putnam Division

I use RossBed under the switches but went with foam track bed everywhere else. I am planning to ballast the exposed parts of the track. The best way to handle RossBed in my opinion is to handle it as little as possible. Even after painting the little bits of foam can easily rub off. I read a tip posted on the forum about using packing tape on the bottom to help protect the foam. RossBed does hold the switches well, it's a press fit. I paint it, tape it, press a switch into it and handle the assembly from the bottom. I used the foam road bed on curved switches since it is an easy trim job, but the RossBed is the best solution I could find under the all of my other Ross switches.

OK, looks like Rustoleum for me too. Another question: How many pieces of the 10" RossBed can one paint per spraybomb? I will be doing an 8x16 double-track loop with a 175 crossover and 16 switches, 072 and 080 curves. I'm trying to get a rough idea of how many cans I need. Total linear length of both loops is 162'.

Found the bulk purchase on Amazon; $78.36 / 6 cans.

Be certain to do what Peter did: Spray a gray primer on it first. That kills the underlying color of the Ross bed and makes the (expensive) fleck paint go farther. BTDT. The attached picture shows a modular hirail yard using cork roadbed with Gargraves track and switches.  This was a great compromise to ballasting.

IMG_3937 [2)

Chris

LVHR

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