Rotary Beacon

The concerning heat may be more from the bulb than the coil.  If you switch to a higher voltage rated bulb (e.g., 18v instead of 14v) it should run cooler with the accessory at the same voltage.  Of course, reducing the voltage is a logical way to go, but if it slows the beacon rotation too much, the bulb rating may be something to try.

Also, are you applying any graphite to the finger washer?  That seems to help with the rotation, perhaps at a lower voltage setting.

I recall another source said they had better success attaching the finger washer to the inside of the beacon instead of to the top surface of the solenoid.  Haven't done this myself, but maybe worth a try.

Lastly, I notice that 1:1 beacons of this type aren't "spinning like crazy".  I know that's good for toy trains...lots of fast action...but it might indicate too much heat-generating power.  Just a thought.

It's a great accessory for the season, though, with its red and green lenses flashing by in rotation.

My beacon is of the old dimpled bulb type.  Not very reliable as is well known.  But the sentiment is there, and when the furnace kicks in a nearby vent gives the top a few boosted turns.  Other than that, I long ago got past the aggravation.  Life's too short...as is this season for trains!

FWIW, always...

KD

Cut the voltage. It sounds like you're running it way too fast. Real ones rotated slowly.

Yeah I think it’s getting too hot and causing something to not work right for sure thanks everyone.

@dkdkrd posted:

Also, are you applying any graphite to the finger washer?  That seems to help with the rotation, perhaps at a lower voltage setting.

Agree with KD comment. Works best for my vibrating beacon.

@Bruce Brown posted:

Agree with KD comment. Works best for my vibrating beacon.

No gonna try the lower voltage first and then apply granite if need be…I think it’s definitely just to high voltage and it’s overheating and making something not function no more.

@dkdkrd wrote:

I recall another source said they had better success attaching the finger washer to the inside of the beacon instead of to the top surface of the solenoid.  Haven't done this myself, but maybe worth a try.

Per Olsen's Train Repair Database CD, for the 494 beacon, an adhesive washer is first installed in the Lens Bracket, followed by a driving washer with the nibs facing outward from the Lens Bracket, and these nibs sit on the base's coil.

@dkdkrd posted:

The concerning heat may be more from the bulb than the coil.  If you switch to a higher voltage rated bulb (e.g., 18v instead of 14v) it should run cooler with the accessory at the same voltage.  Of course, reducing the voltage is a logical way to go, but if it slows the beacon rotation too much, the bulb rating may be something to try.

Also, are you applying any graphite to the finger washer?  That seems to help with the rotation, perhaps at a lower voltage setting.

I recall another source said they had better success attaching the finger washer to the inside of the beacon instead of to the top surface of the solenoid.  Haven't done this myself, but maybe worth a try.

Lastly, I notice that 1:1 beacons of this type aren't "spinning like crazy".  I know that's good for toy trains...lots of fast action...but it might indicate too much heat-generating power.  Just a thought.

It's a great accessory for the season, though, with its red and green lenses flashing by in rotation.

My beacon is of the hold dimpled bulb type.  Not very reliable as is well known.  But the sentiment is there, and when the furnace kicks in a nearby vent gives the top a few boosted turns.  Other than that, I long ago got past the aggravation.  Life's too short...as is this season for trains!

FWIW, always...

KD

If I apply graphite where do I apply it on the side of the rubber ring with the dimples?

@MED posted:

@dkdkrd wrote:

I recall another source said they had better success attaching the finger washer to the inside of the beacon instead of to the top surface of the solenoid.  Haven't done this myself, but maybe worth a try.

Per Olsen's Train Repair Database CD, for the 494 beacon, an adhesive washer is first installed in the Lens Bracket, followed by a driving washer with the nibs facing outward from the Lens Bracket, and these nibs sit on the base's coil.

Interesting, and noted. 

However, whereas my own personal beacon accessory is the 394 dimpled bulb version, I've had more of the 494 beacons, and their 'vibramotored' ilk, cross my workbench for repair requests where the old finger washer was attached to the top of the solenoid.  It must have worked for the customers...the fingers were worn down in that mode.  So, I attached the replacement washer to the same location.  And it all worked fine from the git-go, happy customers.

Two of the reasons I never tried the apparently recommended arrangement shown in your response are:

1) Getting the adhesive washer and finger washer inserted properly, concentrically into the lens bracket cup seemed more challenging that simply applying it to the unobstructed solenoid surface, and...

2) Giving graphite powder a chance to stay on the rubber fingers seemed more probable (gravity) with that washer on the solenoid, rather than hanging upside-down inside the lens bracket.  Again, an intuitive judgment...no personal experience.

But thanks for sharing the mfrs recommendation. 

Whatever.  TEHO, I guess.

KD

Must have been to high voltage, I have it on 12 vac now  it has been on for 2 hours and hasn’t stopped and has kept a nice slow speed the whole time, no graphite.

Working great after changing to a lower voltage so something was just getting to hot I have it kick on for about 3 hours every night and no issues since going to 12 vac.