Rustoleum matte clear coat problems

Based solely on my own experience. Rustoleum does not like plastic surfaces. The only thing that sounds out of sorts is the temperature and or humidity. Honestly, it sounds more like a temperature problem. Surely you did not preheat the cans?

You might be able to save the tender by lightly sanding it smooth with 320 grit emery paper. Sand it down as smooth as possible without ruining the decals. Then carefully reapply the clear coat. Good Luck!

Thanks, Pappy.  The can was indoors until I took it out to paint, and it was maybe upper 70s out (morning).  I knew it wasn't ideal conditions, but I wasn't expecting it to come out as bad as it did.  Is it possible I put the coats on too thinly?  I'll sand it as you describe and try again.  Wish me luck!

I've had problems with Rustoleum doing the same thing as you described. Also, the nozzles clog often, and the nozzle doesn't clear by turning the can upside down and spraying until the paint is gone. I've been in the middle of a project, and have had to use the nozzle from a different can. I don't like Rustoleum.

Don

There is a thread on this subject (that is, clear coat compatibility) that was active recently; I posted to it what I am about to say:

I use Testors Dullcote only; spray cans. Why? Because I have done exactly what you did: ruined a paint job by "buying in bulk". You may not have bought the R'Oleum to save a couple of bucks, but I have yet to find a paint that Dullcote bothers (they must exist),

and an "expensive" little can of Dullcote is...priceless.

Plus, by your own admission, the R'Oleum did an inferior job - my experience too with hardware store clear coats - and, more importantly, it cost you your paint job.

That is for sure. Whenever I finish with a can of any spray paint I always remove the nozzle and save it for when I will need it to replace a clogged nozzle. Not surprising that you can't purchase a pack of extra nozzles - at least not at any of my local stores.

My personal opinion of Rustoleum is, it's garbage, just for the reasons you pointed out, and the fact that it takes forever to dry.  My best success has been with Krylon paint, and not the paint for plastic, just ordinary Krylon.  Have never, ever had an issue using Krylon brand, with numerous repaints that I have done so far, and it dries fast.  You will probably have to sand it back down to smooth finish, or even strip it, and start over again.  For stripping, I use "Castrol Super Clean-(purple jug)" which doesn't harm plastic or diecast.  For stripping I use it full strength, and can use an old toothbrush to scrub off the paint in a matter of a few hours soak.   I feel you pain!!!

I've had bad luck with Rustoleum as well. Just like 49lionel stated, on some projects on some days it works fine, on others, break out the stripper. I have better luck with Krylon, bit it isn't perfect either.

 Don't mix paints now! Rusty is hard to topcoat with others.

 It sounds like too light a coat, too far away, too hot, in the sun, or too dry out..

Lightly sand, just to scuff for adhesion, and recoat it.

Clear can normally be done in layers, without it showing. 

Most original Rustoleum doesn't play well, with the other paints on top. (they make different kinds of paint though).

 Its use is normally metal, goes on a bit thick, and takes a long time for a full cure.

.

 Plastikote is another "soft" paint to avoid IMO. 

For rattle cans, I like Krylon, but use Duplicolor when I can 

Reminds me of something Gomer Pyle used to say..."You brought it on yourself, you brought it on yourself!"

I keep reading about all of these paint problems and I have to ask, why in the world don't you guys use a paint developed for models, not lawn furniture?

I actually use a fair amount of Rustoleum paints and have yet to experience any problems.  As for the spray heads clogging, I've only have that happen with regularly with Testors gloss colors that I use as resin mold release.  Generally taking them off and soaking them lacquer works if done routinely.  Never had a drying problem.  Have to wonder just what conditions others are using these paints in to have problems.  Suspect that humidity and temperature play a significant role.

This is all interesting - thanks for the replies.  Ironically, I used to use Krylon but decided to go away from that for its tendency to do the exact same thing. Why did I not use Dullcote?  Because I don't want the finish that flat.  I do agree that it's very much superior, however.  Looks like I'm going to have to wait for the humidity to subside a bit, and try again.

just read your reply and your mention of " castrol Super Clean'. Thats the first I have heard of it.  Can you tell me where you bought it. Thanks for your help

An answer for "Castrol Super Clean" is that it is usually found at Auto Parts stores and the cheapest place is at "Walmart".  It is sold as a de-greaser mainly.  All of the shells or bodies I have stripped were done with Castrol with no ill effects.  I have done plastic, die cast and now tin-plate with a restoration of a 1688E and tender.  Use it full strength in a container large enough to hold your item, let it soak for about 2-3 hours, and use an old toothbrush to scrub off the paint.  Rinse it off with warm soapy water, let it dry completely, and when ready to paint, I give it a quick wipe down with 90% Isopropyl (drugstore brand) Alcohol.  The Super Clean won't harm your skin, but will dry out your skin with constant use, so preferably use disposable gloves when stripping.

Here is a pic of a beat up Lionel Lackawanna Trainmaster that I recently transformed into an N&W version. The shell was primered first with Testors. I have had problems getting an even coat with Testors gloss black (too thick!) so I apply Tamiya semi-gloss black next. Let dry a day or two and coat with Model Masters Gloss Clear. Final coat after decal application is Model Masters Semi Gloss. This has worked well for me so far.

There's Rustoleum and there's Rustoleum. The original line of Rustoleum paint is formulated for use outdoors on metal. Like the man said, it's for lawn furniture, rusty gates, etc. Rustoleum also makes other paints that are suitable for hobby use. Their 2x Paint and Primer is claimed to be plastic compatible. I've painted a couple of things with it that turned out well. I just did a tinplate station with their texture paint and it looks great. Their texture paint is also perfect for asphalt roads.

I have not tried Rustoleum brand clear coats. I'd be interested in any results people have had with the clear versions of the newer formulations (not the traditional Rustoleum line).