Sectional or Flex for small layout?

I'd be interested in the answers you receive and may ask some follow ups once they're answered.

I stick with the ready made curves unless I need something that's longer or not the right diameter than a ready made piece.  Flex track is great if you have a long straight section or one that slightly curves.  At 027 or 031, I wouldn't try bending flex, it's hard enough at 054 and 072.  If you must use flex, make a jig out of something like plywood, but I have bent it around a metal trash can.

I've bent my fair share of Gargraves flex track when I built a now dismatiled layout.

When I did two loops around the Christmas tree this year (for the first time), I bought two loops of 031 and 042 GG sectional track, plastic ties using the WTB forum here at very good prices compared to "new."  Terrific decision on my part from a cost-benefit perspective.  Why struggle bending flex into a tight radius when used sectional track is available for very little cost? 

I don't recommend bending GG track into anything smaller than O-48. It's not worth the trouble. I don't think GG sectional track comes smaller than O-32.

Thanks everyone.

Not that I have a ton of space I'm working with but I was sort of wanting the trolley route to "wiggle" a little between a street / planned set of buildings so I wanted a little more flexibility, so-to-speak. That's why I was curious about the flex limit. It's not so much about cost and I dont mind horsing around with the track. I just didn't know if there was some point where the track just failed or the ties get all pinched and boogered up.

Maybe I just order a few sections of the flex and see if I can bend it into submission for fun - not like I'd be out a ton of money.

The best way to bend GG Flex is to "swing a radius" from a pivot point[see photo below] and mark your track's center rail for the curve arcs and lay the track to the mark bending and screwing as you go, fastening with screws every 8-9 ties as you advance. I have never done 031 but have installed 036 or 18" radius. A tighter radi, such as 15-1//2" for 031, will obviously require more and closer screws and a great deal of patience and sore thumbs.

I have always left the trailing end unscrewed about 8 ties from the end joint [joint with the last section] until I have advanced and aligned center rail with mark and fastened the 37" section every 8-9 ties to within about 8 ties from the leading end of the section. During this part of the process I am removing ties as necessary and driving up the rails to barely fit in the prior section at the trailing joint as the bend pulls the middle and outer rail askew.

At this point I return to the trailing joint, place a block flat on the benchwork against the outer ends of the ties and ease the joint in until matched with the center rail mark. Then while holding that position I install screws in a pre-drilled hole the second tie back from the joint on both sides of the joint. This results in a perfect kink-free curve joint.

Then I drive up the rails but not jamb tight enough to flare the rail end at the joint. If you have a short distance to go to complete a curve--say only 12", it is difficult to bend although you can do it. Better to cut the last section laid to enable installing a 16-18" section which is far easier.

You can pre-bend your 37" section somewhat if desired but be careful not to kink it. Also, if the GG sections have been stored awhile the ties will be dry and bending is more difficult' Spray WD-40 liberally at the joint of the rail and tie for overnight soak.

The photo shows where I am using an old steel tape with holes drilled at various radius for, in this case,marking the center rail on two mainlines on top of the grid joists-----the purpose being to indicate where I will need to extend wiring and T-strips for switches, accessories and lighting. I tend to install all possible wiring prior to covering the grid. The tape is drilled at the 1" mark to place over the pivot point and at the radius marks, of course adding 1" to compensate for the 1' offset at the pivot..

The black mark is center mark for an 084 curve arc and the red a 072

Here’s another thread on the topic of  tightest curve using Gargraves FlexTrack.  https://ogrforum.com/t...-track-tighest-curve

In the SCARM track planning software the minimum curve you can create with Gargraves is O31. Though you didn’t ask O26 appears to be the minimum using Atlas.

I think when building smaller layouts and displays the idea of using flex track is appealing because sectional track forces you into a box of set footprint which may not be the most efficient use of the limited space available.  

I'm planning a new 6 X 9 display sometime down the road and I know sectional track will not meet my needs. I'm don't mind the extra work to get the configuration I have created in my mind whether it be using flex track or gauging my own from scratch.

Thanks Matthew, I did a search before posting but didn't run across that particular thread.

You said exactly what I was thinking - I have a really small space and using layout software and sectional track feels very mechanical. I want the flexibility.

I'd love to gauge my own rails for a small city trolley line but cant really take that on right now. I did that with HO years go when my eyesight was a little keener...

Too small to bend at 027 or 031.  Under 54" radius I would use only sectional tracks.

I strongly agree.