Selecting a Hakko soldering station

I've had mine for a year and I don't know what I did without it. Wonderful.  I did get two other tips for it. I fine point for circuit boards and a chisel tip for soldering wires to track. I've never used them, but it can't hurt to have them. 

And get some 63/37 solder for it. Great stuff.      I run mine at 600 degrees. 

Roger

Here's a good source, as well...

http://gokimco.com/hobby-zone/soldering-stations.html

Thanks,

Mario

Jim,

You're going to fall in love. It's such a wonderful unit. You just might kick yourself for not buying one sooner.

Jim last year I got an Hakko FX-951. I have not used it yet. I have had and read about the use of it.  It is sitting out in my breezeway just waiting for me to get my A** moveing. I have heard good things about Hakko.        Scot

I have the FX888D, great iron.  I also found a source selling the calibrator for $22, so I now have a fully calibrated soldering station.  I also picked up an extra handle, I keep a broad tip in that and the needle point tip in the other one.  Makes changing tips a lot easier.

I also have the FX88D and it came with several different tips  I have used it for a few months and it really works well for me. It came with 750 deg. setting but I changed it to 700 deg. I have read the tip temp range should be in the 600 -> 700 deg. range. When soldering do you folks change the temp to match the task or do you have one temp fits all?

Thanks

Tommy

Does the type of solder wire dictate the temp setting? 

http://www.microcenter.com/pro...t_Air_Rework_Station

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSnVAJdYNX0

The second is a video of someone doing rework with this tool

Another one showing technique

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQda5iibZos

The hot air rework station is not suitable for normal soldering, it's hardly the ticket for most model train folks.

I also have a hot air rework station, but the price of the tips kills you if you have any variety of chips.  Hakko tips are $30/40 each, that only handles one specific package style.

John,

I agree with you. It came in handy after picking up the wrong screw for the ERR heat sink off the table.   Hey, at a sixty dollar price. It can always be used for a second tasks, shrinking heat tubing.

The primary use my hot air rework station serves is for heatshrink.  Works great for that, and since it's right there on the bench, very convenient.   I keep the small round nozzle on it for the task.

gunrunnerjohn,

Why would you need the calibrator? Is the readout not accurate? Where did you purchase the calibrator? 

"I also found a source selling the calibrator for $22, so I now have a fully calibrated soldering station." 

I bought the calibrator on eBay, I was stunned to find the real thing for $22 shipped, it's normally over $100.  I found the tip temperature was almost 50F off from the reading, so it needed calibration.  I also have two handles, so I wanted to make sure when I change that I was still getting the proper readings.  Since I do some fairly fine SMT circuit board work, I want the temperature to be right for the job.

Here's the Calibrator at a major tool place: http://www.techni-tool.com/821...Oj4:20150402015158:s

Here is the real deal for a bit less on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2...8?lpid=82&chn=ps

Is this a good price for this set.  I was going to get this but if it's less somewhere else for all this stuff does anyone know where?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2...oliid=I33U63I0E1BAWE

That's pretty high for the station alone, but they include a bunch of different Hakko tips, so it's probably competitive.  Of course, you may not need all the different tip types, so you might be better off buying the iron and just selecting the type of tips you use.

Here's just the basic package: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX...eywords=Hakko+FX888D

All the tips with the other one aren't a bad deal, see how much a single Hakko brand tip costs: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T1...eywords=Hakko+FX888D

Last year we ordered the station, pair of cutters, and 5 extra tips from amazon package deal for about $120.  I wanted everything needed to solder in one container.

Pick up a tool box and go to work. IMO a very good Iron.  Fair price I think, no tax or S&H.

Now I see I need to order the calibrator Gunner suggests.

Tommy

I now have a new Hakko FX888D.  I have waded through the instructions which I think leave a lot to be desired.  In the set up instructions it talks about small pieces of sponge to put under the cleaning sponge to help keep the cleaning sponge damp.  My kit had no pieces of small sponge.  Also, nothing about how damp one should keep the cleaning sponge for the most effective use.

How damp should it be?  Thanks,

Jim

After I got mine, I went to Ace Hardware and bought some brass brushes to clean the tips. I had seen a Youtube video about that and it turned out to be the most effective way for me to clean the tips. Works great!      4 or 5 swipes with the brush keeps them clean and tinned.

Roger

I use the brass tip cleaner pad, the sponge in mine has been dry since I bought it.  I have several of those brass pads in stand-alone holders, they do an excellent job.

O Gauger Jim:

I have had a Hakko for 7-8 years now and while it may have been overkill for my needs, I also actually enjoy soldering now and I know it will last the rest of my life.

I have changed from wet sponge to brass sponge and don't see any difference.

Charlie

No water required and it doesn't cool the tip when you clean it.

Jim, just ring the sponge as dry as you can.  Your tip will remain "tinned" and shiny.

Try the brass brush......cleans it much quicker and more completely than the brass sponge because you can actually watch the bristles of the brush clean off the "dirtier" areas. The "sponge" I've found is more hit and miss.

Roger

I've had no issues with the brass sponge, and it's very convenient.  I just plunge the tip in a couple of times and continue working.

gunrunnerjohn ?

Can you please tell me the Hakko Tip numbers.

I am looking for the needle point and standard type heads for the hakko Iron.

I am looking at the Hakko FX888D

Thanks in advance

Brian

Here's the Hakko page for that iron with all the tips:  Hakko FX888D Soldering Tips

John,

Where did you find the extra handles?

-Roger

I got it on eBay.  Looks like they're still there: http://www.ebay.com/itm/381051193577

It's not Hakko brand, but works perfectly, and it even stays in calibration when I change the handle (which changes the temperature sensor).

Just ordered me one, John. Thanks for the tip.

Are the calibrators listed on there knock-offs? I would think so at that price.

Roger

Believe it or not, they are the real deal, made in Japan.  Mine also came with a bunch of the sensor pads that are replaceable for the tips. 

Here's the Hakko FG-100 Soldering Iron Tip Thermometer with ten tip sensors and the unit for $12.88 shipped free!  At that price, why not have one?

You can also buy the Hakko FG100-02 Digital Thermometer on sale for $197.27 if you need the latest version.

LOL......another sale.    Anything else?

Roger

John,

Did you buy your thermometer from that particular seller?  He's got a lot of negative feedback.

Other sellers of that item are not clear whether the thermometer is Celsius or Fahrenheit.

Roger

Yep, I looked up my order. $12.88 shipped.

Ok, I'm in.  Thanks for checking on that, John

-Roger

It was simply too cheap to pass up, and my iron was initially 50F out of cal, so I'm glad I picked up the thermometer.

I ordered mine last night. Very curious about it.  How would you know the iron is off and not the thermometer?

Roger

The thermometer is a great tool.  Cost is about $200 less than purchasing in the states.  Got mine for $15.50 a while ago.  Only thing is you need to learn the Celsius to Farenheit conversion.  It seems all the units from China read in Celsius.  No problem.  Plenty of converter calculators online.  Great price.  

The K-type thermocouple is very easy to build and keep calibrated to within a couple of degrees C without calibration, so I'd trust the thermometer over the iron.  Remember, the iron has a software adjustment of the temperature, so it can be anywhere.

One thing that bit me a couple of times before I realized it was the similarity in changing the iron's temperature and calibrating the iron's temperature.  Other than holding the opposite button to enter the mode, calibration and temperature change are the same.  I thought the iron had died once until I realized that I had turned down the temperature.  When it wasn't working, I turned it down farther as I was using the wrong button!

If there was one thing I'd change on that unit, it would be to add a calibration button instead of trying to have two buttons do everything.