So, basically (if I followed what you wrote), you use the temp button to raise or lower the temp to the new (calibrated) temp? And then use the preset to keep it?
Love Hakko irons and desoldering stations. Where ever I go to a new job I make sure the new company gets Hakko irons.
This ones on my work bench.
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So, basically (if I followed what you wrote), you use the temp button to raise or lower the temp to the new (calibrated) temp? And then use the preset to keep it?
I'll do this the lazy man's way. I attached the user's manual for the FX-888D.
You do NOT do what you specified. There is a temperature setting mode and a calibration mode, you need to follow the calibration procedure to calibrate the temperature. Then, you can use the temp setting to vary the temperature of the iron based on the job.
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The FG100-02 is the Fahrenheit version. The FG100 is the Celsius version. Most of the reduced price ones on Ebay are the Celsius models.
Got it......thanks, John.
The second best thing about using this soldering station was switching to 63/37 solder. Wonderful stuff.
Roger
The FG100-02 is the Fahrenheit version. The FG100 is the Celsius version. Most of the reduced price ones on Ebay are the Celsius models.
Good point, but having someone do a 5 second conversion isn't worth $180! The Celsius version works just fine for me.
The second best thing about using this soldering station was switching to 63/37 solder. Wonderful stuff.
You could do that with any soldering iron.
First, used my FX888D for the first time yesterday and what a pleasure! I never realized soldering could be so easy.
Second, I ordered a spare iron, extra tips and a calibrating unit, all supposedly Hakko, all from an eBay seller in Hong Kong, and at very reasonable prices and free shipping. I got shipping confirmation the day after I ordered them. Will hold my breath until I receive them and then will post the results.
The calibrating unit is in C, but for over a $170.00 savings, I can do a lot of converting.
Jim
I could have used it with my old soldering iron/gun, but I didn't even know about it. The topic of solder came up on an older thread about this soldering station and you suggested the 63/37 and I figured I'd try it. Never looked back
Roger
Let us know about the Hakko tips, if they're genuine Hakko and cheaper than the states, I'm all ears.
Let us know about the Hakko tips, if they're genuine Hakko and cheaper than the states, I'm all ears.
John, this is where I ordered them. will keep you posted.
Jim
FX-8801 65W Compatible Soldering iron handle+ 5 Tips for HAKKO FX-888 FX-888D US
That's why I asked, that's "compatible". Nothing wrong with it, but you'll find the tips don't last like the Hakko tips. That's why I'm looking for a deal on the real Hakko brand tips.
The clone handle I got seems to work fine, I have no reason to think it won't perform like the Hakko one, just the tips.
I see the 888D-23Y offered for about $95alone or for $125 with 5 extra tips. Do the tips need to be replaced often or would it make more sense to just buy the soldering station and buy extra tips later if needed? The 5 tip assortment is S-3,D08,D12,D24,and D32. Would they be appropiate for model railroading purposes? ......DaveB
The problem with the tip assortment that comes with the iron sets is you'll only have a use for one or two. It's more cost effective to just buy the iron and the tips you'll actually use separately.
As for what tip is appropriate, it depends on what you do with it. Since I do a lot of PCB work, I have the fine point tip as my standard. I have the other handle with a chisel-point tip for heavier tasks if I need it.
" As for what tip is appropriate, it depends on what you do with it. "
Thanks for the advice. I'll be using it for soldering track feeder wires and details on train cars such as brass steps, ladders, etc. Also general soldering like wire handrails on industrial building models , fences, and other layout details plus occasional loco wiring of DCC and sound. I guess I'd need maybe three tips? A small one for the DCC wiring, a medium size for the detail work and a larger one for track feeders? Can you suggest tip sizes for a three tip assortment? .......Thanks DaveB
I usually use my Weller gun for track work, I find the soldering station doesn't have the power needed.
I'd probably recommend a similar move, it's much easier to do track with enough power. As for specific tip recommendations, I'd just get what seems reasonable and see how it works out.
The problem with the tip assortment that comes with the iron sets is you'll only have a use for one or two. It's more cost effective to just buy the iron and the tips you'll actually use separately.
John and All,
The least expensive genuine Hakko T-18 series of tips I have found are at Kimco Distributors, gokimco.com. You can buy individual tips, free shipping and the prices for the T-18's range from about $5.50 to $8.00.
Jim
Turns out you have to buy at least $25 worth or they tack on a "handling charge", so the shipping isn't really free unless you want a few of them.
I wish this thread was a 'sticky' because there is so much valuable information here. Those of you who've contributed to this thread have answered all the questions one needs to make a decision on buying a soldering station, not just this brand either.
Some of the provided links are fantastic and I found myself discovering other awesome products for my tool box!
Thanks to everyone!
BTW, I can't solder anything with a soldering iron-with a resistance unit, I'm a pro! If you're going to do any brass projects a soldering station is invaluable and worth every penny in frustration prevention!
My replacement handle arrived earlier in the week and my FG-100 arrived from China this morning, so I got to test both handles with it just now. I was a bit concerned with the replacement handle as the tip that came with it is not the same size as original Hakkos. When I put an original in there, there was a gap (which is filled by a longer flange on the original). No matter......both handles measured exactly the same temp (304 degrees C....579F......when base is set at 600F). So, I guess I can recalibrate to bring the temp up 20 degrees.
Great deal on that FG....$12.88.....crazy.
-Roger
I usually use my Weller gun for track work, I find the soldering station doesn't have the power needed.
I'd probably recommend a similar move, it's much easier to do track with enough power. As for specific tip recommendations, I'd just get what seems reasonable and see how it works out.
grj, that's exactly the same advice Jim Barrett gives in his soldering tutorial in OGR run 263, April-May 2013, article which is available to digital subscriber's--an iron for the finer soldering, and the gun for track work.
Ditto regarding the comments on using 63/37 solder.
Jim must be a very smart fellow.
John,
How's that brass brush working out?
-Roger
John,
How's that brass brush working out?
-Roger
Funny thing, I was going to comment on that, but I thought I'd send email. It works fine, it does clean the tip very well. When I'm just soldering a bunch of stuff and want to periodically clean the tip, I still find it more convenient to use the brass sponge. The brush is good for surface mount, you want the iron really clean to start.
Thanks again.
No problem. I find that when melted insulation gets on it (either by accident or purposely when melting off insulation on very thin wires), the sponge just doesn't do it. I keep a trash can next to my work area and each time I solder, I brush the tip off with about 4 or 5 strokes. Keeps it completely tinned.
-Roger
I try not to meld insulation onto my iron.
You're right, you can clean the tip more thoroughly with the brush, it just takes a bit longer.
John,
I just attempted to change the calibration from 600 degrees to 579 (which is what the FG read). Hit ENTER and measured it. Exactly 600 degrees. I am very impressed with this thing. Another toy to play with.
-Roger
Can't beat it for $12, right?
Well, technically less than $13...
And free ship from China. Crazy good.
I just received my spare Hakko soldering iron from Hong Kong, well packed and ahead of schedule. I am convinced the iron is a genuine Hakko as it is identical to my original that came with the station furnished by a US supplier. I am sure the extra tips are knockoffs as if you look closely with a magnifying glass at the Hakko tips you will see several minute numbers engraved on it including the tip number. The extra tips had no such engraving,however, the pencil tip furnished with the iron did have the Hakko engraving which further convinces me the iron is the real thing.
But I have been fooled before!!
Jim Lawson
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I think you're right, you got the real thing. I got a knockoff, but it was cheap and appears to work as well as the original. Since it only comes out with the alternate tip, I'm not too concerned.
I just got the Hakko FX888D from AdaFruit today (2 day delivery!), very nice soldering station to say the least.
I got sick of buying a $30 Weller and then trying to find the expensive tips for it. I got a spare Hakko T18-S4 fine tip for $10.
Now to practice a bit!
I really like the FX888D, but I do have one suggestion. One maddening thing about the station is the somewhat obfuscated way they do the temperature setting vs the calibration. The procedures are really identical, except that you start them with a different key. If you do the wrong one and try to set the temperature, it screws up the calibration! I happen to have the Hakko calibrator, so I can fix that, but it's a real pain. Given that fact, I decided to "fix" mine. Now I know which button to use to set temperature or to calibrate.
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I just received digital soldering station. I tried and it is so good.
I know GRJ does a lot of soldering, so I followed his lead. FX888D. Some kit combo. I just shopped for a reasonable deal at the time. I got the eutectic solder mix. So, now, it's hot'n'fast, which is good for fumble fingers.
I have seen videos of production soldering and many have the FX888D.
Many of the soldering stations just vary the power to the iron, however that is not the best way to control the heat. The Hakko for one, actually controls the temperature of the tip, and when you add more thermal loading, it adds more power to keep the set temperature. With 70 watts, it also has the power to solder fairly heavy stuff with the proper shape tips.
If you look at the previously posted Best Soldering Station for Electronics page, the only soldering iron posted with an actual real temperature feedback is the Hakko, for delicate circuit board use with SMT components, it's a must to be using the correct temperatures. Good tools pay back the investment for a long time, and the Hakko FX880D is an excellent tool. The icing on the cake for me was the fact that I could also calibrate the tip temperature so I know that what is on the display is also what I'm getting on the tip of the iron.
The BEST solder stations for smt and circuit boards is Metcal. Not cheap, most companies will not buy them for their shops. Hako is next best. It pays to buy the best you can afford.
Rob
I have several earlier posts on this topic. I have now had the FX888D for about 18 months and it is one of the best investments I have made. I check the actual temp vs. the readout every few weeks and occassionally it neees calibrating but very quick and easy to do. Also, thanks to a very early Gunrunnerjohn tip, I use nothing but 63/37 solder. Works great.
Jim Lawson
Rob, I wouldn't imagine that anyone reading this forum would know or care about the difference between a Metcal soldering station and one of the Hakko models. Truthfully, I don't see the value added with the Metcal. I'm not sure what you'd do to make the Hakko FX888D better, it has spot-on temperature control, offers calibrated temperatures at the tip, 70 watts of power for tasks that need it, and a zillion tips for every purpose. The reliability is legendary for most of the Hakko models. Exactly what else would you want your soldering station to do?
Pingman posted:Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:I usually use my Weller gun for track work, I find the soldering station doesn't have the power needed.
I'd probably recommend a similar move, it's much easier to do track with enough power. As for specific tip recommendations, I'd just get what seems reasonable and see how it works out.
grj, that's exactly the same advice Jim Barrett gives in his soldering tutorial in OGR run 263, April-May 2013, article which is available to digital subscriber's--an iron for the finer soldering, and the gun for track work.
Ditto regarding the comments on using 63/37 solder.
I use the largest conventional iron I could find for the track wire soldering. Need the HEAT!
gunrunnerjohn posted:I bought the calibrator on eBay, I was stunned to find the real thing for $22 shipped, it's normally over $100. I found the tip temperature was almost 50F off from the reading, so it needed calibration. I also have two handles, so I wanted to make sure when I change that I was still getting the proper readings. Since I do some fairly fine SMT circuit board work, I want the temperature to be right for the job.
Here's the Calibrator at a major tool place: http://www.techni-tool.com/821...Oj4:20150402015158:s
Here is the real deal for a bit less on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2...8?lpid=82&chn=ps
Is there a good link for the inexpensive calibrator for the setup? This "good deal on eBay" link was invalid, or so it said.