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I Agree with Pete's link above. I used that as a guide when I went through 8 O22 switches a few months ago.  The most prevalent issue that I saw (other than just normal lubrication needs) was that 5 out of the 8 had a broken solder joint on the the bottom side, on the joint between one of the metal strips and the curved control rail. 

IMG_2843

Is difficult to solder, as the solder wants to sink down into the rail void.  I'm a novice at soldering, but that's where my biggest issue was. 

Light Lubricant on the moving parts and contact cleaner on the copper slide strips was easy.  Also make sure the rails are very clean.   

Broken/bent lantern holders are a difficult fix. If they're bent, you'll probably break them trying to straighten them out. Once they're broke, you'd have to drill out and replace the rivet holding the whole thing together. 

That was my experience. Totally worth it overall to fix/service these old switches.

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This post has made many happy and covers many aspects of servicing the O22:

https://ogrforum.com/...45#40004360093384045

Here is a picture showing the screws you will need to remove. There are 3 different sets:

1 set (red) Retains the motor cover

1 set (green) Attaches the motor to the base

1 set (blue) Retains the backing plate to the base

o22-back

This is the base with the plate and motor removed. Check all the solder joints and ensure all the rails are tight.

o22-base

This is the motor. I've identified the surfaces I service with lubrication. Blue for CRC 2-26 and red for Labelle 107. Additionally, check all solder joints.

o22-motor

Assembly is reverse of disassemble. Just be cognoscente of the frog pin and motor alignment. (The pin is in the middle of the 4 blue circles in the last picture).

Here is a link to Olen's Trains which supplies parts you may find you need and shows an exploded diagram:

http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=673

 

Thanks BMORAN4.  I also used your post when servicing my switches. You provided great information and the pictures really helped me out. 

 

Anybody have any tips on soldering that curved control rail joint? On my next one I was considering just soldering a wire directly to the side of the rail, and then the other end down to the metal strip, or just connect it to the appropriate binding post. 

JD2035RR posted:

Anybody have any tips on soldering that curved control rail joint? On my next one I was considering just soldering a wire directly to the side of the rail, and then the other end down to the metal strip, or just connect it to the appropriate binding post. 

You can use a piece of soldering braid as per TinMan3Rail.  Scroll down to the fourth photo.

Pete

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