Side Frames off--Really? Job done!

I know it is a PIA but I drop the motor on my DL109. It is a lot faster than trying to stretch the tire and maybe damaging it.

Shouldnt run into any issues. Just remove the shell, unscrew the motor from the truck (screw in the center of the bottom of the truck)  then you can wiggle the truck out far enough to change it. I think thats just the older truck design. When you go to put the motor back in, you may have to spin the flywheel to get the worm to re-seat on the gear in the truck. Before you put the shell back on, turn the flywheels by hand and make sure the wheels move freely. I also usually run it with the shell off to make sure its back together right. Then re-install the shell.

Definitely not something that should be intimidating to do. Dont overtighten the shell screws. Snug them up and back them off a 1/4 turn so you dont snap the posts in the shell.

When you take the motor off, good opportunity to check and replace lubrication as necessarey.

The other way (voice of experience): most have one center screw on the bottom
of the truck. Take it out and the truck will drop away from the motor mount (which
is what the motor is screwed to from above). Remove the body, though, as you're
going to have to turn the flywheel (as stated above) to mesh the worm and spur gears.
Also, as above, check lubrication.

Most diesels that I have taken apart (I'm working on a friend's Williams E7 currently)
have the side frame screws mounted top-down, like yours. Williams does.

I made a tool (bent flat steel from old windshield wiper) that will handle these screws
from the side. Works; easier to drop truck.

Would it have killed them to put in an access hole - or screw heads on the bottom?

All this unscrewing and motor-loosening is really not as difficult as it sounds; just take
your time.

If the loco runs fine without the tire (many of mine do), just skip it. They're not
necessary - I dislike them on principle - unless they turn out to be. Try it.

The older MTH diesels have top-mounted sideframes; newer versions have the improved design with the screws on the bottom. The good news is, as others have pointed out above, it isn't all that difficult to pull the motor and get at the truck. Yes, it's a nuisance, but do it once and it becomes routine. I can think of some other brands that I dread pulling a motor off a diesel truck, but the job is pretty easy on the old MTH engines. At least MTH realized there was a better way to do it. 

Google Frog Snot, watch the video. This stuff works great and is easy to put on. I talk all my customers out of rubber tires and into Frog Snot for the ease of installation and traction benefits. BF  

Bull Frog Snot is the way to go. It lasts longer and out performes traction tires. One jar will do many wheels. In the long run it is a cheaper than traction tires.

 

...keep the rails polished...

I know one guy on here, for years put up his method of using silicone (Dennis, Dennis B ??) and I searched for it, but had no luck.

 

He used a silicone from Depot I believe. Dennis, you still here and could you be talked into reposting and giving us your knowledge. That is some valuable snot they squeeze outta those frogs. The LHS has a jar for $20+ I think, but I only have about 7 engines, and plenty of tires left to use, so...................... cheap wins.

 

If I were to do the tire, sounds like dropping the truck w/ the single screw is the way to go. The first step I did on any engine is to take the shell off. After the initial inspection, I just knew there would be an an access hole if the frame.

 

Suuuuuuuuurrrprise, suuuuuuuuurrrprise,  suuuuuuuuurrrprise as Gomer used to say!

 

Thanks for all the inputs. Greg

If you leave the locomotive upright, you can remove the one screw holding motor to truck and remove sideframes.  If you have small needle nose, or dental picks you can usually get the tires on without taking anything apart.

Truck dropped, tires on. Not a problem when you know to drop the truck (other than the motor wanting to drop down, and the wire tangle) no matter where you live.

 

Any one with engines like this and able to do the job, will not be unhappy, again, no matter where you live.

 

Other than the fee, anyone one having engines like this (the style with the screw head hidden by the frame with no access hole available)  and living by a local hobby shop will be happy to have the job done for them.

 

But I know guys that would never tackle this, and if dads (especially with little kids) like that live out in Podunk, 200 miles from a hobby shop, run into the problem then they are going to gripe and not be happy even if tires are packed in the box with the engine.

 

Not complaining, but - if the engine is going to have tires that we know will need replacing every few years if not sooner- it does seem silly to either not design it so the side plates drop off via bottom accessible screws, or have an access hole for both plate screws, not just one of them. How hard would it have been to punch in one more hole when the frame was stamped out?!

 

Job done, end of topic for me. I really appreciate the knowledge one can garner on this forum and as I said before, thank you for the responses. I know it takes time to post them and you have better things to do.

 

Greg

CNGW RR

Dennis uses "silicone sealant #80242 by Locite" for traction tires. Scilicone caulk does not set-up hard enough for traction tire purposes.

Not complaining, but - if the engine is going to have tires that we know will need replacing every few years if not sooner- it does seem silly to either not design it so the side plates drop off via bottom accessible screws... 

As mentioned in a previous post, MTH changed this design years ago. Newer MTH diesels have bottom-mounted sideframes, making tire changes much easier. 

You have to drop the truck on the SD9's (and other early 6-axle diesels.) Not really difficult as you turn the axles to pull the motor back into the truck during reassembly. Personally, I'd like to get rid of the traction tires entirely and be done with the problem.

I know the railking imperial SD70ACe sideframes have one screw on top of the truck and one on the bottom. You can take the bottom one out and the sideframe will swing out to allow tire replacement. I took the sideframes off to weather them and removed the motor attachment screw on the bottom of the truck and it comes right off.

Only steel wheels for me