Small room switching layout track plan ideas needed

Here is a drawing with dimensions, its NOT to scale by any means.  All dimensions are in inches, all benchwork is 24" deep.

AHM did not make a stockcar.    the original Atlas O scale had a stock car.    The old original Atlas from the 80s are slightly better detailed in my opinion than the AHM cars of the same vintage.    I think you consider them to add some variety.    AHM did the boxcar, reefer, Flatcar and 40 gondola that I am aware of.   The boxcar is a low height car like the ARA 1923 design or the Pennsy X29.    Atlas O did a sliding door boxcar, plugdoor boxcar, 52 ft gondola that I am aware.    The Atlas Boxcar is a slightly newer 1930s era prototype that is a little taller (1/4 inch) than the AHM car so it is nice variation.    The prices should be about the same.    The Old Atlas may be a few bucks more per car.

You can get quite a bit of industrial switcing in an area like that I think depending on how much you can use.

Thats right, old Atlas had the stock car.  Still will work as its lightweight.   I just added a dimensional drawing of the proposed bench work, hopefully someone can come up with a track plan to scale using the old AHM track and switches as I have a bit of it already and can get plenty more cheaply.  I would just replace the ugly switch machine on those older switches with caboose industry ground throws.  I wonder if anybody does nice lighted switch lanterns in O scale?  I enjoy adding all the working lights as it brings a scene to life. 

My modular colleague Gilly@N&W built a Timesaver that was featured in Run 265. You could take the basic track plan and stretch it around room with straights and curves. You can put lots of industries with longer straight sections and there will be lots of switching action.

I'll let Tom (Gilly) know that I mentioned him and he might have some suggestions, too.

Peter

I;m not familiar with that track.   What is the curve radius?    Also how sharp are the switches?   Do they match the track radius like Lionel track?

A nice option for building fronts is Evan Designs Model Builder.     It is a program that lets you design building walls and put in doors and windows and details and then print it on your printer.    I have done it that way and also done it just printing wall material and cutting in Tichy Windows and door castings.     The basic software is $45 and there is an add-on the gives you more 20 more brickwork for 15 and when I got it if you bought both you got free shipping which almost covered the add-on.

Evan Designs Signs,Bricks,Windows

The track is 48" diameter. then switches to match, straight sections were 12 inches long.  Basicly Atlas "snap" track for O gauge 2 rail.  one radius, left and right hand turnouts to match the curves, straight section and there might have been a 90' diamond.   There was also 36" flex track as I have a couple pieces of that.  Here is a pic off the back of a track package showing what all was available, including much larger radius track. 

What's the minimum radius the AHM 0-8-0 can handle?

Good question, I dont know exactly but maybe someone here does.  I would like to think the track that AHM sold to go with the trains they sold here in the states would be a comfortable radius for it.  I know all the drivers are flanged and only have a tad of lateral movement.  But its been a few years since I actually owned one of the O scale IHB locos. 

something to consider in your planning:

I did a quick look at the IHB operations maps.  which I found here: https://www.dhke.com/ihbarchive/ihbhst.html. they had significant miles of single and double track mainline. if you have interest in an interchange with a larger railroad. you could reduce a section of benchwork in width to represent distance from one scene to another. for example: if the benchwork along the left side wall in the drawing was reduced to say 14"-16" in width. it could represent a separation from a larger switching area at top (of your drawing). and another switch area with an interchange at the bottom.

that's one idea. if you're interested a representation of the actual line, delve into the maps and figure out which sections of the railroad may fit your space.

Not so much trying to recreate an actual place on the IHB, just the feel of the area.  Was trying to see what I could do with the general cheap rolling stock from AHM and the early Atlas.  I know the IHB served the steel mill industry as well as local industry and bridge traffic.  Its sad I can find the HO stuff so much easier, but I can see O scale so much better at a month shy of being 50.  Once I gather up enough stuff, engine, cars, track and so forth.  I will start the benchwork.  Was just hoping someone here was really good with track plans and could make something fit with the proposed benchwork.  If not, no big worries, I will experiment once I have some track on hand. 

@prrjim posted:

I;m not familiar with that track.   What is the curve radius?  

I built this with all 072 GarGraves. A better choice would be all Ross Custom Switches with Rossbed.
Benchwork measures 32”x144”

Trying to ascertain your minimum radius for these, you could always look for the original AHM snap track which is based on European Track standards (and has a slightly higher rail height AIR due to the plastic base than other RTR track code 148 like Atlas-Roco, Duddy or PRC Atlas)  that came with these sets/locomotives, I believe you're looking at something like O72 radius, not sure but guessing 36"? Too optimistic..tighter?  Anyone else here that can weigh in on that Rivarossi sectional track? I'm using all old Roco 1:48 flex and Old Pullman.

The saving grace with them certainly being they can cut sharp (almost traction-like)  curves well, very short wheelbase, I think the four axle main driver/frame  is something around 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" between the centers of the outer drivers. Note I've added about 1/8" to each side in the above shot.

Definitely a nice kit though, I passed on the IHB scheme and went with a fictional subsidiary of the NYC for my own pike.

The tender on these are GREAT too and likewise have been picked up by kit-bashers too, similarly  as the boilers were.

Ah.. the cheap and malleable  magic of injection molded styrene. I like the Red Caboose GP kits for the same reason.

Seriously though, based on your plan I think you have enough space to get the kind switching pike you want for these AHM U3a's , certainly diesels like AN NW2's, Atlas SW9's, RC GP's  or some of the more rarified small Yoder, MTH or Carworks models.  Looks like a great project.

This is a 10x10 that I designed many years ago.  On the left is a ferry slip which requires staging tracks for arriving and outing freight cars.  Idler cars are necessary to move cars on and off the ferry.  Then there is street running to and industrial area (actually a Timesaver switching layout).

Jan

Here's a layout plan I designed for a similar situation as yours. However, I added the closet as a run through connection. (The closet was 24" in width so lopping that off gives you about 12' of length in the main room.)

You would have to make some changes to fit your requirements, but all the benchwork was only 24" deep, and I felt it had enough switching included to keep things interesting on the long term.

Also note that 042" dia curves were used as well as 072 GarGraves switches.

Here's the layout plan:

And here's a portion of the layout (12th St Yard scene) after the layout was beginning to be functional, but not scenicked:

Hope you find some ideas herein, and best of luck!

Andre

@artfull dodger posted:

Here is a drawing with dimensions, its NOT to scale by any means.  All dimensions are in inches, all benchwork is 24" deep.

Welcome to 2 rail O scale model railroading, I think you room is plenty big enough for a great switching layout. Your choice of cars are easy to find and very affordable. and easy enough  to convert to KD couplers.   Although I only have Static,  modified  0-8-0 kit. I cant comment on how they run. but I have seen the Casey Jones and the American run and they seem to run ok.  My concern  is the track, the old original Atlas and Rivarossi track system hasn't been made in years  and may not be compatible, with  todays scale loco's and cars.  A 24" Radius is tight ( Its like trying to use a 12" R in HO) and may limit you in the future.  The current Atlas track starts with a 36R curve and a variety of straights. the #5 switch would be your best bet, and the also make a Y switch.  I have been doing 2 rail In S, O, and G since the 70's and if you have any questions send me an e mail..

Lance Mindheim provides a lot of inspiration on his website. His books are full of ideas that might be useful as well- https://www.shelflayouts.com/

Rick

The track plan suggestions are all very interesting, but I strongly recommend you find out the minimum radius (that's the official measurement for 2-rail O scale) of the engine you prefer before you even begin building benchwork.  You may find that your "curve corners" may need to be a little larger than 2' square to accommodate the curves that engine may need.

Anyone know if the AHM box for the IHB 0-8-0 indicates the minimum radius?

Chuck

Chuck, I would have the engine and much more on hand prior to tearing down my 4x7 table I have now and starting the new benchwork.  That way I know what she will handle radius wise.  Right now, I havent even found one to purchase that either is powered/built or has the motorizing kit with the unbuilt loco kit.  AD

I like Jan's plan above. This link is to my last HO layout, designed under the influence of the late Russian-prototype modeler Chris White and (at the time) fellow operating crewmember Lance Mindheim.

I strongly suggest using only two or at most three walls and NONE of the middle of the room. And if I were building a switching layout in three-rail I would certainly use no. 8 Ross Custom Switches. Any sharper and you have tremendous s-curves; any longer and you run out of space in a bedroom-size layout. The reason I haven't built a switching layout is the nearly prohibitive cost of switches.

https://www.trains.com/mrr/how...inigret-cove-branch/

Bob M.

@RDM posted:

I like Jan's plan above. This link is to my last HO layout, designed under the influence of the late Russian-prototype modeler Chris White and (at the time) fellow operating crewmember Lance Mindheim.

I strongly suggest using only two or at most three walls and NONE of the middle of the room. And if I were building a switching layout in three-rail I would certainly use no. 8 Ross Custom Switches. Any sharper and you have tremendous s-curves; any longer and you run out of space in a bedroom-size layout. The reason I haven't built a switching layout is the nearly prohibitive cost of switches.

https://www.trains.com/mrr/how...inigret-cove-branch/

Bob M.

Its 2 rail

I have no plans to use the middle of the room, just around the walls like I drew out.  I do like Jan's track plan alot, the part that goes back across the bottom of my paper is option as that would be above my work bench.  Hopefully a nice 0-8-0 thats powered turns up soon.  I can get the older AHM track and switches way cheaper than current Atlas stuff.  I do have a couple pieces of flex track that I can experiment with radius's till the actual layout starts getting built. 

@artfull dodger posted:

I have no plans to use the middle of the room, just around the walls like I drew out.  I do like Jan's track plan alot, the part that goes back across the bottom of my paper is option as that would be above my work bench.  Hopefully a nice 0-8-0 thats powered turns up soon.  I can get the older AHM track and switches way cheaper than current Atlas stuff.  I do have a couple pieces of flex track that I can experiment with radius's till the actual layout starts getting built.

well I have done the same . basic thing ,and tucked my work/ jewelers bench under my 2"x10" double module and test track.  Very Handy.     If you can readily source the track you need, and are happy with it , go for it. its your railroad.    I sent you an E mail

@Putnam Division posted:

My modular colleague Gilly@N&W built a Timesaver that was featured in Run 265. You could take the basic track plan and stretch it around room with straights and curves. You can put lots of industries with longer straight sections and there will be lots of switching action.

I'll let Tom (Gilly) know that I mentioned him and he might have some suggestions, too.

Peter

Can't go wrong with a classic plan like the Timesaver.  Here's a website with a lot of other switching layout ideas for a small space:  http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/SPL-build.html

I am going to try to fit the timesaver into my layout design such as done in Jan's layout picture that was posted.   I will have to flip it to the left side as that side in my room is shorter due to the door into the room from the hallway.  But the side of the room where the window is, would be perfect for that feature.   I did find and buy a 0-8-0.  Needs a bit of repair on the front pilot beam, one is cracked off and the pilot step is missing on one side.  I may try to find a junker loco that has a good frame that has a perfect pilot and do a swap out.  AD

My micro 2 rail layout uses the older atlas switches.  By micro i mean 2 ft by 8 ft.  No run around so i avoid s curves for the most part.  The tight radius fits right into an industrial design.  I use an atlas sw switcher and a bakers dozen weaver cars, 40 ft scale length,  all converted from 3 rail.  The tight radius is not much of a concern if you keep the degree of change short.  The only concern is coupling on the curve is next to impossible.

AD

A "Small room Switching layout" sounds like a O27, Marx 1590 switch layout.

The Control Panel shows the 027 track diagram that is 11 ft x 5 ft 9 in and will run 0-8-0 and Lionel 2046 2-6-4 engines.  It could be cut to 10 ft.  This one has 17 switches and a homemade $10 turntable as an extra.

Details on building the whole layout at OGR forum link below.

https://ogrforum.com/...95#60276340902001695

Edited   Sorry for the above post.  Your topic title did not say 2 rail but you did post in the 2 rail forum, but I did not go to the original post, with the forum listed at the top of the page.  Got on board from the ALL Topic list to the right, that list topics from all forums.  But 3 rails are 50% more fun that 2 rails!  Have a good time with your planning.

Charlie

Any more, 3 rail give me hives.  I want 2 rail scale and thats how it will be.  I have done the whole Lionel thing for many years.  If we had a local 2 rail club, I would have went that way many years ago.  Thats been one hold back is lack of anywhere to run locally

@necrails posted:

My micro 2 rail layout uses the older atlas switches.  By micro i mean 2 ft by 8 ft.  No run around so i avoid s curves for the most part.  The tight radius fits right into an industrial design.  I use an atlas sw switcher and a bakers dozen weaver cars, 40 ft scale length,  all converted from 3 rail.  The tight radius is not much of a concern if you keep the degree of change short.  The only concern is coupling on the curve is next to impossible.

do you know what code rail that was  used on the old track?

I believe all of that older track is/was code 148.

Well I picked up 2 RH  original atlas switches and my bronze ,brass, white metal Varney  4-4-0 American , just squeezes' through them at a 24" radius. my  converted 0-8-0 AHM based will not .  Did Rivarossi blind the center drivers on the motorized kit or their rtr engines

Not that I am aware of, all drivers were flanged.  But being an unsprung model, I bet that could be changed carefully.  I am not sure how much lateral play there is in the middle two driver sets, but will be able to report in a couple days when my 0-8-0 arrives.   AD

On the OScaleYardSale (io.group), there is a fellow selling multiple kits plus one motorizing kit, all for $50.00, if anyone is interested!!

Chuck

@artfull dodger posted:

I am going to try to fit the timesaver into my layout design such as done in Jan's layout picture that was posted.   I will have to flip it to the left side as that side in my room is shorter due to the door into the room from the hallway.  But the side of the room where the window is, would be perfect for that feature.   I did find and buy a 0-8-0.  Needs a bit of repair on the front pilot beam, one is cracked off and the pilot step is missing on one side.  I may try to find a junker loco that has a good frame that has a perfect pilot and do a swap out.  AD

I did use a version of this on my layout

I just bought an old NJ Custom Brass Alco S1(looks more like an S2 with the turbo stack) unpainted brass switcher.  This opens up some other ideas that could work well as a theme for the small switching line.   One being a grain/ethanol operation.  Or a coal tipple back in a hollar down in West Virginia.   I have decals for both types of operations in my stash.  Or there is the MD&W that does the switching for the big Boise Cascade operation up in MN.  They had a fleet of Alco S class switchers.  Or just a proto freelance shortline using a beater S2 to service a grain elevator and Co-op industries.   Plenty of ideas there to mull over.   AD

@artfull dodger posted:

I just bought an old NJ Custom Brass Alco S1(looks more like an S2 with the turbo stack) unpainted brass switcher.  This opens up some other ideas that could work well as a theme for the small switching line.   One being a grain/ethanol operation.  Or a coal tipple back in a hollar down in West Virginia.   I have decals for both types of operations in my stash.  Or there is the MD&W that does the switching for the big Boise Cascade operation up in MN.  They had a fleet of Alco S class switchers.  Or just a proto freelance shortline using a beater S2 to service a grain elevator and Co-op industries.   Plenty of ideas there to mull over.   AD

nice find

I am thinking about making it a ratty patched out ex Milw Rd unit that was bought by my shortline and pulled out of the weeds at Bensenville yard deadlines.   I need one of those PSC beacon lights with an amber dome, I can only find red and blue ones right now.   Hopefully the chain sprockets in the old model are ok and not split.  He said it ran on test leads but he is a 3 rail guy so he cannot track test it.   AD