Skip to main content

 I watched several videos and thought I could solder the Scale track together. I made a huge mistake that will need to be corrected. My basement goes through some changes over the different seasons. The layout will shrink a bit in the winter from the heat drying stuff out. When spring arrives the heat does not run very much. The air conditioning is not on yet either. So the humidity goes up a bit and the plywood grows I imagine. To make things worse, my 3 rail is an elevated loop like the Chicago transit and the track can flex when trains go over.

 Whatever the reasons for whatever is going on, my track joints are failing. I keep finding at least one or more sections apart every time I run. I just found another 4 joints failed. The joints were good and the solder stuck to each side, yet they separated? I believe that track joiners should have been used to help the stress? I have re-soldered joints so many times that I am at a loss. I will try again with joiners where I can get the joints cleaned up before I scrap the whole idea. I used to make cables for my sound system and light show, so I am pretty good at soldering. I have been soldering for most of my life. I guess that doesn't make my joints good enough? Urrgggg.

 I noticed that my 2 rail Atlas joiners look like they will fit the center rail on the Scaletrax. So I just need to get something for the outside rails now. It will probably take me a year to fix all the joints. That's if they will hold up with joiners? It sure looked easy in the videos!

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I haven't had any issues with my scaletrax but sometime you can use a very short piece of wire. (1/2" or so and solder each end to each section of track).   Make sure to grind off black coating on center rail.  I set solder iron for about 650-700F.  Make sure the rail is getting heated enough to draw the solder to it and you have a nice smooth joint.  Don't let it be a cold solder looking one.   IMO adding a small gauge wire strand (bare) across the track joint helps everything.

I think some wire across the joints might be easier now that I have soldered them so heavy. I have already tried a few and I had mixed results. I used some heavy 14 gauge solid wire pieces that I cut. I think I'll try it again with a lighter gauge. I need something to re-enforce these joints. I have many rigid tracks and none of them have acted up yet that I remember?

 I did have some joints fail right at switches, so I'm not solid on a solution yet. All the wire connections that I have made have held. I need something to hold more solder for strength across the gap.

I just began investigating this track system regarding assembly. I see your dilemma. I was considering taking the center out of sectional tracks to preserve the ends to make custom lengths. I was wondering what folks used to connect bare ends.

They do have the 45-1033 Lock-Ons for the ends. I am curious how they attach.

Have you explored soldering Atlas track threads? That is nickel silver also. I think flux and the high heat, like sparky mentioned, are probably key.

Looking at jewelry soldering and a few industrial posts on the net, a specific flux with boron is needed. perhaps a wash on the ends with "pickle" would help.

Edit: Another flux for nickel, stainless steel

Last edited by Moonman

Engineer-Joe,

   I echo what Sparky said.  I use a thin wire the size of a paper clip and solder a "blob" on the side that is least visible, then use a marker to hide the shiny solder.  For stubborn joints, double up on the wire and use more solder.  I've had joints crack over the seasons also before I started using the wire, since then it rarely happens. 

Rich

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×