soldering tinplate

You can use any electronic solder, 60-40, 63-37. The latter is a bit easier to use. Best use an active flux as well. I like Stay Clean zinc chloride liquid but paste flux used for plumbing will work, just a bit harder to clean up.

As for irons, it depends on how large the area. 75-100 watt irons, weller soldering gun or best would be a resistance soldering outfit.

Practice on some tin cans, not aluminum.

Pete

@jim mcclain posted:

Hi all was wondering if anybody knows what I should use to solder a prewar tin passenger car body. I need to know what wattage gun or iron I would need and also what solder will work best.

Thanks Jim

Good questions, I have an O gauge Lionel electric locomotive and some passenger coaches that were assembled with silicone, I would like to get them right.

Ray

@Norton posted:

You can use any electronic solder, 60-40, 63-37. The latter is a bit easier to use. Best use an active flux as well. I like Stay Clean zinc chloride liquid but paste flux used for plumbing will work, just a bit harder to clean up.

As for irons, it depends on how large the area. 75-100 watt irons, weller soldering gun or best would be a resistance soldering outfit.

Practice on some tin cans, not aluminum.

Pete

I looked at the recommended flux and saw the caution about corrosive properties, can this be cleaned up after soldering and avoid the corrosion?

Ray

If you use corrosive flux, you need to thoroughly wash it off immediately after the soldering job.  If not, you'll have rust within a few days, probably something you want to avoid!

@Rayin"S" posted:

I looked at the recommended flux and saw the caution about corrosive properties, can this be cleaned up after soldering and avoid the corrosion?

Ray

As John points out you have to wash off the flux, one reason I prefer liquid to paste. This is standard practice including building brass models. Soap and water is usually sufficient.

Pete

Thanks everyone. I used a 80 watt iron and cleaned off the flux it came out alright.

@jim mcclain posted:

Thanks everyone. I used a 80 watt iron and cleaned off the flux it came out alright.

Yes,

I also want to thank you for the answers, and thank you Jim for asking, otherwise I would still be wondering.

Ray

@Norton posted:

You can use any electronic solder, 60-40, 63-37. The latter is a bit easier to use. Best use an active flux as well. I like Stay Clean zinc chloride liquid but paste flux used for plumbing will work, just a bit harder to clean up.

As for irons, it depends on how large the area. 75-100 watt irons, weller soldering gun or best would be a resistance soldering outfit.

Practice on some tin cans, not aluminum.

Pete

Why not just use Rosin type flux and avoid the corrosion risk?

Jim

@Jim Waterman posted:

Why not just use Rosin type flux and avoid the corrosion risk?

Jim

Rosin flux is not an active flux. The difference is active fluxes work to both prevent oxygen from interfering with the chemical reaction as well as removing any oxidation on the surface. Rosin flux only does the former.
Using both the difference will be obvious.

You can experiment on a common tin can.

Pete