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Just dabbling a bit and considering setting up a layout, my ideal plan will need switches to match the 42 curves.  I would be fine with manual switches, but my research tells me my options are few.  Ross makes a 72 & a #4, won’t work, DC powered, very expensive.  MTH seems to be my only option but they appear to be currently unavailable anywhere and not real cheap either, selling for way over MSRP on the auction site.  My question is, does anyone make manual 42 switches, were they ever made this way and where can I get my hands on 2 LH & 2 RH.

Appreciate your consideration,       W1

Last edited by William 1
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Just for fun, this is the layout I’m considering.  I only need to control the 2 switches at the inside corner and they are certainly within reach, the other 2 can go with the flow so to speak, so all can be manual.  I built something similar in O gauge Fastrack for someone so I think the geometry will work.  It’s kind of a fun plan to play with.  Suggestions are always helpful.

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Last edited by William 1

Yes, they did.  A few varieties, as a matter of fact.  Most will need a little tweaking to reach the zero-issue threshold, but that is because of age and wear.  Look for the cleanest and tightest examples you can find.  I don't have my books here, but I can dig up numbers at home tonight, if necessary.

BC400 - Are you saying you sold them to him and just shipped them to him.  That's interesting, what brand of track & switches, I'm fine with standard Lionel track & switches, but I might splurge and get all new USA track sections, mine are circa 1927.  It's a couple hundred bucks and might be worth it so it comes together nicely, smooth running and reliable electric conductivity throughout.   I have the 90 crossover.

Last edited by William 1

Yes, Ross switches are expensive but they are trouble-free and work exceptionally well with all  tinplate both original and modern.  And "yes", they require DC power to operate but the PIKO switch control unit, seen below, is the easy and attractive solution to that issue as it converts either an AC or DC power input into the exact electrical power output needed to operate the LGB switch motors that come standard on Ross Standard Gauge switches.   

Piko Switch Control Box

Furthermore, Ross switches have several design features which give them greater flexibility.  For example, the LGB switch motor used on Ross switches can be mounted on either side of the Ross switch.  In addition, the Ross switch has a low profile, which virtually eliminates the train/switch contact problem inherent in some high profile switch designs such as modern MTH switches.

I currently use MTH switches on my SGMA modules but plan to replace them with Ross switches.  I recommend you reconsider using Ross switches on your layout particularly in locations where access to the switch will be difficult and/or where derailments are more likely to occur.

Bob Nelson

Thanks Seal,  I understand all your points but my space is limited so I am limited to 42 switches.  My track plan doesn't need remote control switches, the 2 I need to control are within easy reach.  I'll start out with a basic plan and try to add some 42 switches if I can find them.  The MTH type would work, I like the non derailing feature, but they don't seem easy to come by, I see a pair on the site with 19 bids currently at twice the MSRP.  It's a sticky wicket.

I am a Ross fan, my O layout was all Ross and I still have enough track and trains to run a basic setup, you don't need to sell me on them.  They might want to consider making standard gauge 42 switches, it seems there would be a market for them.   Thank you for your consideration,       W1   

Last edited by William 1

Snagged a pair of manual 210 switches and a pair of 223 remotes.  The description says the 223s work well, says the non derailing feature functions, which is most desirable for my layout.  We’ll see I guess, I’m feelin lucky.

No turning back now, time to build a standard gauge layout!  Gonna be fun.  Better than having these nice prewar trains sitting in boxes.   Thanks guys for the feedback, was helpful figuring out what I needed and gave me a kick to get going.

Cheers,       W1

Last edited by William 1

A thought here if the prewar pure manual switches are scarce: grab some 222 or 223 automatic switches, make sure they have the marker light, use it to turn the points.  The 223's are pretty cool because they have the 'non-derailing' feature that will automatically change the switch position when the first set of wheels hits the short insulated outside rail on the way in.  A 222 can be modified to do that too. We always liked hooking up a separate power lead to the switches so the marker light would illuminate.

Jim

Ten four, that’s the plan.  Found a pair of each.  2 manuals & 2 remotes which should work perfectly on the layout I have planned.  Gonna use my original Lionel tubular track, it works fine when it it is cleaned and tightened up, going to need a few more pieces is all.  Not going old school on the power setup tho, using my old TMCC setup, brick, TPC, command base, Cab 1, ASC for power blocks, accessory transformer for switches etc.  I was delighted I was able to bring a Cab 1 back to life, opened it up and cleaned the contacts with a regular pencil eraser, from completely dead to fully functional, that was a pleasant surprise.  Yay!

That’s the plan.  Waiting for the switches,  then I’ll lay it out on the floor, then build the platform and go from there.  Gonna be a fun project, can’t wait to get started.

Cheers,       W1

Last edited by William 1

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