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I was running my E-L U33C when the front truck derailed and the snow plow arc'd on one of the rails. It probably took me a couple of seconds to react and kill the power. When I put it back on, the diesel sound was not there, and it would run a few feet, then stop, or change direction, or shut off altogether; all in TMCC mode. I did a reset several times, with no change. I then tried it in conventional mode and regained the diesel sound, but still got the erratic running, and occasionally shutting off.

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

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This won't help in this instance, but should for in the future - add 7A fast blow fuses inline  to your layout.  They cost about $0.25 each, but can save $100's in preventing damage to modern motive power like your u-boat.  Nothing blows as fast.  Resettable fuses are touted to be fast, but I haven't found any as fast as the once and done type.  Each block and siding on my layout has a fuse.  Sure, friends have joked when I've had to replace a fuse once in awhile from a derailment or switch set incorrectly, but I have yet to fry any of their fancy dan engines (or mine).  I have found 7A work best for S gauge, 15A for O gauge, and 3A for protecting my On30/Sn42 trains.  I also have a spike and surge protector from Scott's Odds and Ends between my TPC units and the fast blows.  That will throw itself down should something running/rolling on a loop cause sparking and consequently spikes in voltage (sometimes 10-30X nominal) which can also wreak havoc on unsuspecting (unprotected) electronics.

Sgaugian,

 

Sound advice about the fuses. By using DPDT switches, I also run DC for my original AF DC motored engines, and some conversions; the dual DC transformer has a 5A fuse for each circuit, which is more than adequate for anything I run. I'll get some in-line fuse holders for the AC side.

 

To answer richabr's question, an automotive type fuse, either the old glass type, or the new plug-in type on the variable leg will do it.

 

But to get back on topic, does anyone have suggestions about my U-boat problem, other than send it to the Big L? 

My fuses are inline with the variable voltage leads - Radio Shack 7A 250V fuses, see attached photo.  Each block and siding has its own fuse.  Loop 3 has no blocks, but is wired for selectable DCC or AC, so there are two fuses for that loop. Here's a link to the surge suppressor http://www.scottsodds-n-ends.c...-surge_arrestors.htm   It's the latest model.  I have had mine for years so it's the earlier DTK-4Z model.  Still a good product. Practice safe S - it can save you time and money.  

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Well, looking at the parts breakdown, there's any one of 4 circuit boards that could've been fried: motherboard(29), radio reciever(38), Railsounds reciever(39) or the Railsounds board(40).

http://www.lionel.com/CustomerService/ReplacementParts/index.cfm?startRow=26&DOACTION=productPartFilter&PRODUCTID=1AD9713F-5E9F-420D-AB4C57DEB4D20BB3

 

I'm afraid you're going to have to send your U33C in to get it fixed.

 

Rusty

Originally Posted by richabr:

Not being an electrical genius, what wattage should the 7A fuses be? Are they installed inline on both the variable and common terminal wires from the transformer, or just a particular one?

 

thanks, Rich

Fuses are not rated in wattage, the 7A rating is the current rating.  They're only installed in the hot lead as a rule.

Rusty,

 

Thanks for the info on the boards, I figured the end result would be a trip to the Big L. I thought about trying to determine which board, and do it myself, but common sense prevailed. By the way, my U-boat has a flat can motor in the fuel tank with drive shafts to each truck; the picture in the link has a vertical motor for each truck, did they change after the first production run?

 

I now have a 5A fast blow fuse in each of my power feeds, which appears to be more than adequate for anything I've run. I should have titled this post "Why you need fuses your power feeds"

 

Thanks to all.

Originally Posted by UP332:

Rusty,

 

Thanks for the info on the boards, I figured the end result would be a trip to the Big L. I thought about trying to determine which board, and do it myself, but common sense prevailed. By the way, my U-boat has a flat can motor in the fuel tank with drive shafts to each truck; the picture in the link has a vertical motor for each truck, did they change after the first production run?

 

I now have a 5A fast blow fuse in each of my power feeds, which appears to be more than adequate for anything I've run. I should have titled this post "Why you need fuses your power feeds"

 

Thanks to all.

Arrrgh!  That was the O Gauge U33C.  I copied the wrong page.  Sorry about that...  Here's the Flyer page:

 

http://www.lionel.com/Customer...30-AB8F-8C36F1BA68AF

 

Motor Control board(5), Powered motherboard(32), Railsounds 5.5(34), Radio receiver(35).

 

Seeing that 3 of the 4 boards are "contact Lionel to order," (and about $230.00 for all four, a lot of dough to take pot-shots with) sending the U-boat in would be your best bet.

 

Rusty

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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